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As a dedicated knitter and an enthusiast of creating adorable newborn photo props, I am always on the lookout for patterns that are both beautiful and practical. Today, I want to share my experience with the Cadwyn Bonnet, a lovely design featuring a chain-like stitch pattern that is small, understated, and absolutely charming. This project was a joy to knit, especially with the luxurious KnitPicks Capretta Fingering yarn.
Discovering the Cadwyn Bonnet
The Cadwyn Bonnet caught my eye while I was browsing through patterns online. The delicate chain-like stitch pattern intrigued me. It’s the kind of pattern that exudes elegance without being overly complex. I could already picture how perfect it would look as a photo prop for newborns, adding just the right touch of charm and sophistication.
Choosing the Yarn: KnitPicks Capretta Fingering
For this project, I decided to use KnitPicks Capretta Fingering yarn. This yarn is a blend of merino wool, cashmere, and nylon, making it incredibly soft and ideal for delicate baby items. The softness of the yarn combined with its durability makes it perfect for a bonnet that will not only look good but also be comfortable for a newborn to wear.
Getting Started
One of the things I love about the Cadwyn Bonnet pattern is that it’s knit flat. This makes it accessible for knitters of various skill levels. The chain-like stitch pattern is created through a series of simple knit and purl stitches, making it easy to follow even if you’re relatively new to knitting.
I started by casting on the required number of stitches. The first few rows are always the most exciting for me, as they set the foundation for the entire project. As I worked through the initial rows, I could already see the chain-like pattern beginning to emerge. The stitches were neat and tidy, creating a beautifully understated texture.
The Joy of Knitting Flat
Knitting the Cadwyn Bonnet flat was a refreshing change from working in the round. It allowed me to focus on the stitch pattern without having to constantly adjust my needles or worry about maintaining tension. Each row was a pleasure to knit, and I found myself getting lost in the rhythmic motion of the needles.
The chain-like stitch pattern is repetitive enough to be meditative but varied enough to keep things interesting. I appreciated how the pattern instructions were clear and concise, making it easy to keep track of where I was in the design. The process of watching the fabric grow, row by row, was incredibly satisfying.
The Beauty of the Chain-Like Stitch Pattern
As the bonnet started to take shape, I couldn’t help but admire the delicate beauty of the chain-like stitch pattern. It’s amazing how such a simple combination of stitches can create such an elegant effect. The small, understated chains added a subtle texture to the bonnet, giving it a unique and sophisticated look.
The KnitPicks Capretta Fingering yarn was a dream to work with. The stitches were crisp and defined, highlighting the intricate details of the pattern. The softness of the yarn added a luxurious feel to the bonnet, making it perfect for a newborn’s delicate skin.
Shaping the Bonnet
One of the key aspects of the Cadwyn Bonnet is the shaping. As I reached the point where the bonnet needed to be shaped to fit a baby’s head, I carefully followed the instructions to create the necessary decreases. This part of the process required a bit more attention, but it was well worth it.
The shaping was seamless and intuitive, resulting in a bonnet that fits snugly and comfortably. I was particularly pleased with how the chain-like stitch pattern continued to look beautiful even as the shape of the bonnet changed. The pattern transitioned smoothly, maintaining its elegant appearance throughout.
Finishing Touches
After completing the main body of the bonnet, it was time to add the finishing touches. This included sewing the back seam and adding ties. I opted for simple i-cord ties, which complemented the understated elegance of the chain-like stitch pattern.
Sewing the back seam was straightforward, and I was careful to ensure that the stitches were neat and even. The final result was a beautifully finished bonnet that looked just as lovely from the back as it did from the front. The ties added a functional yet decorative element, making the bonnet both practical and adorable.
A Satisfying Project
Knitting the Cadwyn Bonnet was an immensely satisfying experience. The combination of the beautiful chain-like stitch pattern and the luxurious KnitPicks Capretta Fingering yarn resulted in a stunning final product. The process of knitting this bonnet was both enjoyable and rewarding, and I can’t wait to use it as a photo prop for newborns.
This project reminded me of why I love knitting so much. There’s something incredibly fulfilling about creating something beautiful and functional with my own hands. The Cadwyn Bonnet is a testament to the power of simple stitches and high-quality yarn, and I’m proud to have added it to my collection of newborn photo props.
Sharing the Love
If you’re a fellow knitter looking for a project that combines elegance and simplicity, I highly recommend giving the Cadwyn Bonnet a try. Whether you’re knitting for your own little one, making a gift for a friend, or creating props for newborn photography, this bonnet is sure to impress.
The chain-like stitch pattern is a joy to knit, and the end result is a beautifully understated bonnet that is perfect for any newborn. Pair it with a soft, luxurious yarn like KnitPicks Capretta Fingering, and you’ll have a project that is not only beautiful but also a pleasure to work on.
In conclusion, the Cadwyn Bonnet has quickly become one of my favorite knitting projects. Its delicate chain-like stitch pattern, combined with the luxurious feel of the KnitPicks Capretta Fingering yarn, makes it a standout piece in any collection of newborn photo props. I hope you’ll find as much joy in knitting it as I did. Happy knitting!
Materials and Info
Materials: 70-140yds fingering yarn (I used knitpicks capretta), size 3 (3.25mm) needles (straight and dpn),
Gauge: 7sts/in in stockinette st ~GAUGE IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!~
Appx finished size when laid flat: newborn (5x5ins), infant (5.75×5.75ins), sitter/crawler (6.5×6.5ins), toddler (7.25×7.25ins)
Stitch Key:
k – knit
p – purl
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip 1 knitwise, slip1 knitwise, knit the 2 slipped stitches together
Cadwyn Bonnet Pattern
NEWBORN
Provisional Cast on 72sts
Row 1 (ws) – knit across
Row 2 (rs) – k2, p2, k1, p1 [p5, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 3 – k4, p1, k1 [k5, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 4 – repeat row 2
Row 5 – repeat row 3
Row 6 – k2, p1,k1, p1, k1 [p4, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 7 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k4, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 8 – repeat row 6
Row 9 – repeat row 7
Repeat rows 2-9 until your work measures appx 3.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a row 5. Place markers on either end of your final row. These will mark where the crown seam ends.
Decreases
Row 1 – k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 [p1, p2tog, P1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (63sts)
Row 2 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k3, p1, k1 ,p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 3 – p3, k, p1, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (54sts)
Row 4 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k2, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, k3
Row 5 – p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (43sts)
Row 6 – k3, p1 [k3, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 7 – p1, p2tog, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (32sts)
Row 8 – [k2, p1] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 9 – p1, [k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, p1
Row 10 – k1 [p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1
Row 11 – p1, k1, p1, [k2tog, p1] repeat [to] to last 2sts, k1, p1 (23sts)
Row 12 – k1, [p1, k1] repeat [to] across
Row 13 – p1 [ssk] repeat [to] across (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
Ties
Cast on 3sts on double pointed needles and work appx 8-9ins for personal use and 12-14ins for photography use of i-cord (tutorial at the end of the pattern). Place all of the provisional cast on sts on your straight needle (I like to use a circular needle for this but straight will do) and begin i-cord bind off using the length of i-cord you have already worked. Once all of the sts have been bound off work an additional length of i-cord that matches the other tie. Weave in ends.
INFANT
Provisional Cast on 79sts
Row 1 (ws) – knit across
Row 2 (rs) – k2, p2, k1, p1 [p5, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 3 – k4, p1, k1 [k5, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 4 – repeat row 2
Row 5 – repeat row 3
Row 6 – k2, p1,k1, p1, k1 [p4, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 7 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k4, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 8 – repeat row 6
Row 9 – repeat row 7
Repeat rows 2-9 until your work measures appx 4.25ins from cast on edge ending after completing a row 5. Place markers on either end of your final row. These will mark where the crown seam ends.
Decreases
Row 1 – k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 [p1, p2tog, P1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (69sts)
Row 2 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k3, p1, k1 ,p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 3 – p3, k, p1, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (59sts)
Row 4 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k2, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, k3
Row 5 – p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (47sts)
Row 6 – k3, p1 [k3, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 7 – p1, p2tog, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (35sts)
Row 8 – [k2, p1] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 9 – p1, [k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, p1
Row 10 – k1 [p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1
Row 11 – p1, k1, p1, [k2tog, p1] repeat [to] to last 2sts, k1, p1 (25sts)
Row 12 – k1, [p1, k1] repeat [to] across
Row 13 – p1 [ssk] repeat [to] across (13sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
Ties
Cast on 3sts on double pointed needles and work appx 8-9ins for personal use and 12-14ins for photography use of i-cord (tutorial at the end of the pattern). Place all of the provisional cast on sts on your straight needle (I like to use a circular needle for this but straight will do) and begin i-cord bind off using the length of i-cord you have already worked. Once all of the sts have been bound off work an additional length of i-cord that matches the other tie. Weave in ends.
SITTER
Provisional Cast on 86sts
Row 1 (ws) – knit across
Row 2 (rs) – k2, p2, k1, p1 [p5, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 3 – k4, p1, k1 [k5, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 4 – repeat row 2
Row 5 – repeat row 3
Row 6 – k2, p1,k1, p1, k1 [p4, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 7 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k4, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 8 – repeat row 6
Row 9 – repeat row 7
Repeat rows 2-9 until your work measures appx 5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a row 5. Place markers on either end of your final row. These will mark where the crown seam ends.
Decreases
Row 1 – k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 [p1, p2tog, P1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (75sts)
Row 2 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k3, p1, k1 ,p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 3 – p3, k, p1, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (64sts)
Row 4 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k2, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, k3
Row 5 – p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (51sts)
Row 6 – k3, p1 [k3, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 7 – p1, p2tog, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (38sts)
Row 8 – [k2, p1] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 9 – p1, [k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, p1
Row 10 – k1 [p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1
Row 11 – p1, k1, p1, [k2tog, p1] repeat [to] to last 2sts, k1, p1 (27sts)
Row 12 – k1, [p1, k1] repeat [to] across
Row 13 – p1 [ssk] repeat [to] across (14sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
Ties
Cast on 3sts on double pointed needles and work appx 8-9ins for personal use and 12-14ins for photography use of i-cord (tutorial at the end of the pattern). Place all of the provisional cast on sts on your straight needle (I like to use a circular needle for this but straight will do) and begin i-cord bind off using the length of i-cord you have already worked. Once all of the sts have been bound off work an additional length of i-cord that matches the other tie. Weave in ends.
TODDLER
Provisional Cast on 93sts
Row 1 (ws) – knit across
Row 2 (rs) – k2, p2, k1, p1 [p5, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 3 – k4, p1, k1 [k5, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 4 – repeat row 2
Row 5 – repeat row 3
Row 6 – k2, p1,k1, p1, k1 [p4, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, p1, k2
Row 7 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k4, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 8 – repeat row 6
Row 9 – repeat row 7
Repeat rows 2-9 until your work measures appx 5.75ins from cast on edge ending after completing a row 5. Place markers on either end of your final row. These will mark where the crown seam ends.
Decreases
Row 1 – k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 [p1, p2tog, P1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (81sts)
Row 2 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k3, p1, k1 ,p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 3 – p3, k, p1, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p3 (69sts)
Row 4 – k3, p1, k1, p1 [k2, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, k3
Row 5 – p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1 [p2tog, p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (55sts)
Row 6 – k3, p1 [k3, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 7 – p1, p2tog, k1 [p2tog, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (41sts)
Row 8 – [k2, p1] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 9 – p1, [k1, p1, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, p1
Row 10 – k1 [p1, k1, p1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1
Row 11 – p1, k1, p1, [k2tog, p1] repeat [to] to last 2sts, k1, p1 (29sts)
Row 12 – k1, [p1, k1] repeat [to] across
Row 13 – p1 [ssk] repeat [to] across (15sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
Ties
Cast on 3sts on double pointed needles and work appx 8-9ins for personal use and 12-14ins for photography use of i-cord (tutorial at the end of the pattern). Place all of the provisional cast on sts on your straight needle (I like to use a circular needle for this but straight will do) and begin i-cord bind off using the length of i-cord you have already worked. Once all of the sts have been bound off work an additional length of i-cord that matches the other tie. Weave in ends.