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Creating and sharing knitting patterns has always been a joy of mine, especially when it comes to newborn photo props. There’s something truly magical about crafting a piece that not only showcases your knitting skills but also serves as a cherished keepsake for capturing those precious early moments of a baby’s life. Today, I’m excited to share the story and inspiration behind the Mary Bonnet, a free knitting pattern designed especially for newborn photo shoots. This bonnet holds a special place in my heart as it is part of a beloved set, sharing its lace stitch pattern with the Mary Pixie Bonnet and featuring a charming picot hem edge reminiscent of the June Dress.

The Inspiration Behind the Picot Hem Edge

When I first envisioned the Mary Bonnet, I wanted to create something that exuded a timeless elegance while being practical for both knitters and photographers. The picot hem edge was an essential feature I knew I had to incorporate. If you’re familiar with the June Dress pattern, you’ll recognize this dainty detail immediately. The picot hem adds a touch of delicate sophistication, making the bonnet perfect for newborn photography. The hem not only gives the bonnet a finished look but also provides a gentle, soft edge that is comfortable for a baby’s sensitive skin.

The Beauty of Lace Stitch Patterns

The lace stitch pattern is the heart of the Mary Bonnet, tying it together with its sister pattern, the Mary Pixie Bonnet. Lace knitting has always fascinated me. There’s an almost meditative quality to the process of creating those intricate patterns, watching as each row of stitches transforms into a beautiful, airy fabric. For the Mary Bonnet, I wanted to use a lace pattern that was visually striking yet simple enough for knitters of various skill levels to enjoy.

In designing the lace stitch pattern, I drew inspiration from classic lace motifs that evoke a sense of nostalgia and timelessness. The result is a pattern that is both elegant and functional, with just enough complexity to keep the knitting process engaging without being overwhelming. The lace stitch creates a beautiful texture and adds a bit of stretch, ensuring the bonnet fits snugly yet comfortably on a newborn’s head.

Practical and Polished: The I-Cord Ties

Another feature that I love about the Mary Bonnet is the i-cord ties. These ties are not only practical for securing the bonnet in place but also add a lovely finishing touch. I-cords have a clean, polished look that complements the overall design of the bonnet. They are also quite sturdy, which is important for an item that will be used in newborn photography, where every detail needs to be just right.

Choosing the Perfect Colors and Yarns

As I worked on the Mary Bonnet, I imagined it in a variety of colors and yarns. The pattern is versatile enough to look stunning in both soft pastels and vibrant, rich hues. For a classic, timeless look, I recommend using a neutral color like cream or soft gray. These shades not only photograph beautifully but also complement a wide range of backdrops and outfits, making them ideal for newborn photo sessions. However, don’t be afraid to experiment with different colors to suit your personal style or the preferences of the parents.

Choosing the right yarn for the Mary Bonnet is also crucial. Given that this is a newborn photo prop, it’s essential to use a yarn that is soft and gentle against a baby’s skin. I recommend using a high-quality, natural fiber yarn such as merino wool, alpaca, or a soft cotton blend. These fibers are not only comfortable but also provide excellent stitch definition, which is important for showcasing the intricate lace pattern.

The Joy of Seeing Finished Projects

One of the most rewarding aspects of creating the Mary Bonnet has been seeing how other knitters bring their own creativity to the pattern. I love browsing through photos of finished bonnets on social media and seeing how each knitter has put their unique spin on the design. Whether it’s through their choice of yarn, color, or personal modifications to the pattern, every bonnet tells its own story.

A Thoughtful Handmade Gift

In addition to being a beautiful photo prop, the Mary Bonnet makes a wonderful gift. Handmade items carry a special significance, especially when they are crafted with care and love. Giving a new parent a hand-knit bonnet for their newborn is a heartfelt gesture that will be cherished for years to come. It’s a gift that speaks to the time, effort, and thoughtfulness that went into its creation.

Reflecting on the Journey

As I reflect on the journey of designing and sharing the Mary Bonnet, I’m filled with gratitude for the knitting community. The support and enthusiasm from fellow knitters have been incredibly motivating and inspiring. It’s a privilege to be able to share my patterns and see them come to life in the hands of talented knitters around the world.

Encouragement for Knitters

If you haven’t yet tried your hand at knitting the Mary Bonnet, I encourage you to give it a go. Whether you’re an experienced knitter or new to lace knitting, this pattern offers a delightful and rewarding knitting experience. And if you enjoy working on this pattern, be sure to check out the Mary Pixie Bonnet and the June Dress for more matching photo prop pieces.

Conclusion: A Celebration of Knitting and Keepsakes

In conclusion, the Mary Bonnet is more than just a knitting pattern; it’s a celebration of the art of knitting and the joy of creating something beautiful and meaningful. I hope this bonnet brings as much joy to you in the making as it does to the families who will cherish it as a treasured keepsake. Happy knitting!

Materials and Info

Materials – appx 65-150yds sport weight (size 3) yarn (I used Berroco Corisca which is discontinued. A great option instead is KnitPicks Heatherly), size 4 (3.5mm) straight AND dpn, 2 stitch markers, yarn needle

Gauge -6sts/in

Sizes – newborn, 0-3mth, (3-6mth, 6- 12m), toddler, child

Appx Finished Measurements – Newborn 5x5ins, 0-3m 5.5×5.5ins, 3-6m 6x6ins, 6- 12mth 6.5×6.5ins, toddler 7x7ins, child 7.5×7.5ins (measurements are for bonnet when laid flat)

ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit
P – purl
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
yo – yarn over

Mary Bonnet Pattern

NEWBORN
Cast on 62sts using long tail cast on – leave a very long tail (appx 3ft) so you can sew your hemmed edge
Row 1 – Purl across
Row 2 – Knit across
Row 3 – Purl across
Row 4 (picot row) – K2 [k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 5 – Purl across
Row 6 – Knit across
Row 7 – Purl across
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – repeat row 10
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – knit across
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k4, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] repeat [to] to last 2sts, k2
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – repeat row 16
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – purl across
Repeat rows 10-21 until your work measures 4ins from the picot row. End after completing a purl row. Place a marker on either end of this last row. This will be where your seam ends to form the crown.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1, [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx 12ins and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Sew your hemmed edge folding it on the picot row. I do a simple whip stitch here. Pick up 3sts along the front corner of your bonnet and work an i-cord for 12ins. Do the same on the opposite front corner. Weave in ends and block

0-3 MONTHS
Cast on 66sts using long tail cast on – leave a very long tail (appx 3ft) so you can sew your hemmed edge
Row 1 – Purl across
Row 2 – Knit across
Row 3 – Purl across
Row 4 (picot row) – K2 [k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 5 – Purl across
Row 6 – Knit across
Row 7 – Purl across
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k1, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] repeat [to] across to last st
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – repeat row 10
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – knit across
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k2, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] repeat [to] across
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – repeat row 16
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – purl across
Repeat rows 10-21 until your work measures 4.5ins from the picot row. End after completing a purl row. Place a marker on either end of this last row. This will be where your seam ends to form the crown.
DECREASES
Row 1 – [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (55sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (44sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (33sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – [k2tog] repeat [to] across (11sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx 12ins and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Sew your hemmed edge folding it on the picot row. I do a simple whip stitch here. Pick up 3sts along the front corner of your bonnet and work an i-cord for 12ins. Do the same on the opposite front corner. Weave in ends and block

3-6 MONTH
Cast on 70sts using long tail cast on – leave a very long tail (appx 3ft) so you can sew your hemmed edge
Row 1 – Purl across
Row 2 – Knit across
Row 3 – Purl across
Row 4 (picot row) – K2 [k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 5 – Purl across
Row 6 – Knit across
Row 7 – Purl across
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – repeat row 10
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – knit across
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k4, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] repeat [to] to last 2sts. K2
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – repeat row 16
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – purl across
Repeat rows 10-21 until your work measures 4.75ins from the picot row. End after completing a purl row. Place a marker on either end of this last row. This will be where your seam ends to form the crown.
DECREASES
Row 1 – [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across (60sts)
Row 2– purl across
Row 3 – [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (50sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (40sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (30sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across (20sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – [k2tog] repeat [to] across (10sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx 12ins and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Sew your hemmed edge folding it on the picot row. I do a simple whip stitch here. Pick up 3sts along the front corner of your bonnet and work an i-cord for 12ins. Do the same on the opposite front corner. Weave in ends and block

6-12 MONTH
Cast on 78sts using long tail cast on – leave a very long tail (appx 3ft) so you can sew your hemmed edge
Row 1 – Purl across
Row 2 – Knit across
Row 3 – Purl across
Row 4 (picot row) – K2 [k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 5 – Purl across
Row 6 – Knit across
Row 7 – Purl across
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – repeat row 10
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – knit across
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k4, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] repeat [to] to last 2sts. K2
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – repeat row 16
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – purl across
Repeat rows 10-21 until your work measures 5.25ins from the picot row. End after completing a purl row. Place a marker on either end of this last row. This will be where your seam ends to form the crown.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (67sts)
Row 2– purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (56sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (45sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (34sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (23sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx 12ins and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Sew your hemmed edge folding it on the picot row. I do a simple whip stitch here. Pick up 3sts along the front corner of your bonnet and work an i-cord for 12ins. Do the same on the opposite front corner. Weave in ends and block.

TODDLER
Cast on 86sts using long tail cast on – leave a very long tail (appx 3ft) so you can sew your hemmed edge
Row 1 – Purl across
Row 2 – Knit across
Row 3 – Purl across
Row 4 (picot row) – K2 [k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 5 – Purl across
Row 6 – Knit across
Row 7 – Purl across
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – repeat row 10
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – knit across
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k4, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] repeat [to] to last 2sts. K2
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – repeat row 16
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – purl across
Repeat rows 10-21 until your work measures 5.75ins from the picot row. End after completing a purl row. Place a marker on either end of this last row. This will be where your seam ends to form the crown.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (74sts)
Row 2– purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (62sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (50sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (38sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (26sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (14sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx 12ins and pull through remaining stitches. Using this
end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is
nearly invisible). Sew your hemmed edge folding it on the picot row. I do a simple whip stitch here. Pick up 3sts along the front corner of your bonnet and work an i-cord for 12ins. Do the same on the opposite front corner. Weave in ends and block

CHILD
Cast on 90sts using long tail cast on – leave a very long tail (appx 3ft) so you can sew your hemmed edge
Row 1 – Purl across
Row 2 – Knit across
Row 3 – Purl across
Row 4 (picot row) – K2 [k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across to last 2sts, k2
Row 5 – Purl across
Row 6 – Knit across
Row 7 – Purl across
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k1, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – repeat row 10
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – knit across
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k2, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] repeat [to] across
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – repeat row 16
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – purl across
Repeat rows 10-21 until your work measures 6.25ins from the picot row. End after completing a purl row. Place a marker on either end of this last row. This will be where your seam ends to form the crown.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k6] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (79sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (68sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (57sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (46sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (35sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (24sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (13sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx 12ins and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Sew your hemmed edge folding it on the picot row. I do a simple whip stitch here.

Mary Bonnet PDF