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As a passionate knitter and photographer, I am always on the lookout for projects that beautifully merge my two loves: knitting and capturing precious moments. One of my favorite creations is the Sweetheart Bonnet, a delicate mohair lace bonnet designed specifically as a newborn photography prop. This adorable bonnet not only highlights the innocence and beauty of newborns but also adds a touch of handmade charm to each photograph.
In this blog post, I will share the inspiration behind this lovely bonnet, the benefits of using mohair lace yarn, and tips for knitting and photographing newborns. While I won’t include the pattern itself, I hope to inspire you to take up your needles and create this beautiful accessory that will become a cherished part of your newborn photography sessions.
The Inspiration Behind the Sweetheart Bonnet
The Sweetheart Bonnet was born out of my desire to create a delicate, timeless piece that embodies the sweetness of a newborn. When I first started knitting, I was drawn to intricate lace patterns and the ethereal quality of mohair yarn. I wanted to design a bonnet that was both elegant and functional, one that would frame a baby’s face in the softest of ways and add a whimsical touch to newborn photos.
The bonnet’s design features a simple lace pattern that forms a heart motif, which is how it got its name. The combination of mohair and lace creates a light, airy texture that is perfect for newborns. The bonnet ties under the chin with delicate, knitted cords, ensuring it stays in place during photo sessions while adding an extra layer of cuteness.
Why Mohair Lace Yarn?
Mohair yarn is a favorite among knitters for its softness, warmth, and beautiful halo effect. When used in lace knitting, mohair creates a fabric that is light, airy, and incredibly delicate. Here are some reasons why mohair lace yarn is perfect for the Sweetheart Bonnet:
- Softness: Mohair is exceptionally soft, making it ideal for newborns’ sensitive skin. The gentle touch of mohair ensures that the bonnet is comfortable and non-irritating.
- Warmth: Despite its lightness, mohair is surprisingly warm. This is important for newborn photography, as it helps keep the baby cozy during shoots, which can sometimes last several hours.
- Halo Effect: The natural halo of mohair yarn gives the bonnet a dreamy, ethereal quality. This effect is perfect for creating soft, romantic photos that highlight the innocence of newborns.
- Drape and Flexibility: Mohair lace fabric drapes beautifully, making it easy to shape the bonnet around the baby’s head. This flexibility is crucial for achieving the perfect fit and look in photos.
Knitting the Sweetheart Bonnet
Knitting the Sweetheart Bonnet requires some basic knowledge of lace knitting and working with mohair yarn. Here are a few tips to help you achieve the best results:
- Choose the Right Yarn: Select a high-quality mohair lace yarn. Look for yarn that combines mohair with silk for added strength and sheen. The silk component also helps the yarn glide smoothly on your needles. I used Knitpicks Aloft for this pattern which you can purchase here
- Use the Correct Needles: Use needles that are appropriate for lace knitting. Sharp tips will help you manage the fine stitches, and circular needles can be useful for working in the round.
- Swatch First: Always knit a swatch before starting your project. This will help you get a feel for the yarn and ensure your gauge is correct. Mohair can be tricky to work with, so it’s essential to practice with a swatch first.
- Handle with Care: Mohair yarn is delicate, so handle it gently to avoid stretching or breaking the fibers. Be patient and take your time, especially when working with intricate lace patterns.
- Block the Bonnet: Once you’ve finished knitting, block the bonnet to open up the lace pattern and set the shape. Use blocking wires or pins and be gentle to maintain the integrity of the mohair fibers.
Photographing Newborns with the Sweetheart Bonnet
Newborn photography is an art that requires patience, creativity, and a keen eye for detail. Here are some tips to help you capture beautiful images of your little one wearing the Sweetheart Bonnet:
- Create a Calm Environment: Newborns are sensitive to their surroundings. Ensure the room is warm and quiet to keep the baby comfortable and relaxed. A white noise machine can help create a soothing atmosphere.
- Timing is Key: The best time for newborn photography is within the first two weeks of birth. During this period, babies sleep more soundly and can be easily posed.
- Natural Light: Use natural light whenever possible. Position the baby near a window with soft, diffused light to avoid harsh shadows and create a gentle, flattering effect.
- Keep it Simple: The Sweetheart Bonnet is a statement piece on its own. Keep the rest of the setup simple with neutral blankets and minimal props to let the bonnet shine.
- Focus on Details: Capture close-up shots of the baby’s face framed by the bonnet. Pay attention to the tiny details like the lace pattern and the soft halo of the mohair yarn.
- Safety First: Always prioritize the baby’s safety and comfort. Use safe posing techniques and have an assistant if needed to ensure the baby is supported at all times.
Cherishing Handmade Memories
The Sweetheart Bonnet is more than just a knitting project; it’s a keepsake that holds the love and care put into every stitch. As you knit this bonnet, you’re creating a piece that will be part of precious memories for years to come. Whether you’re a professional photographer or a parent capturing moments at home, this bonnet adds a special touch to every photo.
In conclusion, the Sweetheart Bonnet is a perfect blend of delicate design and practical functionality. The use of mohair lace yarn adds an ethereal quality that enhances the beauty of newborn photography. By following the tips for knitting and photographing, you can create stunning images that highlight the innocence and sweetness of newborns. So, pick up your needles, choose your favorite mohair yarn, and start knitting this beautiful bonnet that will be cherished in photos for generations. Happy knitting and happy photographing!
By sharing the inspiration and process behind the Sweetheart Bonnet, I hope to ignite your passion for creating beautiful, handmade items that can be cherished forever. If you’re interested in knitting this bonnet, stay tuned for the free pattern coming soon! In the meantime, feel free to share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below. I’d love to see your finished projects and hear about your own journey with this delightful knitting endeavor.
Materials and Info
Materials: appx 70-150yds lace weight (size 0) mohair yarn I used Knitpicks Aloft, size 7 (4.5mm) straight
and dpn, yarn needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5sts x 8r per in ~GAUGE IS VERY IMPORTANT~
Stitch Key:
K – knit
P – purl
yo – yarn over
k2tog – knit 2 together
ssk – slip slip knit (slip sts purlwise)
sl – slip st knitwise
ssp – slip slip purl (slip sts knitwise)
p2tog – purl 2 together
ktbl – knit through back loop
Head circumference: nb (13ins). 0-3mths (14ins), 3-6mth (15ins), 6-12mths
(16ins)
Gathering at the Center of the Hearts
Using your working needle pick up front to back all 5 of the yo2 that you dropped from the previous 5 rows (first picture on the left). Now knit them all together (picture 2) and purl them all together (picture 3). The last picture on the right is what the middle of your heart should look like right after you work it.
Right Handed Tutorial
Left Handed Tutorial
Sweetheart Bonnet Pattern
Newborn
Cast on 55sts.
Row 1 – purl across
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – k1 [k5, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5 – p1 [p4, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p3] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (47sts)
Row 6 – k1 [k3, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk, k2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (39sts)
Row 7 – p1 [p2, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (31sts)
Row 8 – k1 [k1, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (23sts)
Row 9 – p1 [p2, yo4, , slip yo2 from last row off your needle, pick up all of the 5 dropped yo from the 5 previous rows and k and p into them (pictures for this at the end of the pattern) , yo4, p1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (55sts)
Row 10 – k1 [k2, k4tbl, k2, k4tbl, k1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Work in stockinette st starting on a wrong side row (purl row) until your work measures appx 4ins from cast on edge. End after completing a right side (knit) row.
Place a stitch marker on either end of the row here.
DECREASES
Row 1 – [p8, p2tog, p1] repeat [to] across (50sts)
Row 2 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1(42sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (34sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (26sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (18sts)
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (10sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Cut 6 pieces of yarn approximately 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the hood. Pull the ends through this loop.
0-3 MONTH
Cast on 60
Row 1 – purl across
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – k2 [k5, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k5] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5 – p2 [p4, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p4] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (52sts)
Row 6 – k2 [k3, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk, k3] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (44sts)
Row 7 – p2 [p2, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (36sts)
Row 8 – k2 [k1, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk, k1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (28sts)
Row 9 – p2 [p2, yo4, , slip yo2 from last row off your needle, pick up all of the 5 dropped yo from the 5 previous rows and k and p into them (pictures for this at the end of the pattern) , yo4, p2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (60sts)
Row 10 – k2 [k2, k4tbl, k2, k4tbl, k2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Work in stockinette st starting on a wrong side row (purl row) until your work measures appx 4.5ins from cast on edge. End after completing a wrong side (purl) row. Place a stitch marker on either end of the row here.
DECREASES
Row 1 – [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (50sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (40sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (30sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across (20sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – [k2tog] repeat [to] across (10sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Cut 6 pieces of yarn approximately 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the hood. Pull the ends through this loop.
3-6 MONTHS
Cast on 68sts.
Row 1 – purl across
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – k1 [k5, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5 – p1 [p4, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p3] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (58sts)
Row 6 – k1 [k3, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk, k2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (48sts)
Row 7 – p1 [p2, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (38sts)
Row 8 – k1 [k1, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (28sts)
Row 9 – p1 [p2, yo4, , slip yo2 from last row off your needle, pick up all of the 5 dropped yo from the 5 previous rows and k and p into them (pictures for this at the end of the pattern) , yo4, p1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (68sts)
Row 10 – k1 [k2, k4tbl, k2, k4tbl, k1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Work in stockinette st starting on a wrong side row (purl row) until your work measures appx 5ins from cast on edge. End after completing a wrong side (purl) row.
Place a stitch marker on either end of the row here.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1(58sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (46sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (35sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (24sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (13sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Cut 6 pieces of yarn approximately 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the hood. Pull the ends through this loop.
6-12 MONTHS
Cast on 73
Row 1 – purl across
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – k2 [k5, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k5] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5 – p2 [p4, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p4] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (63sts)
Row 6 – k2 [k3, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk, k3] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (53sts)
Row 7 – p2 [p2, ssp, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, p2tog, p2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (43sts)
Row 8 – k2 [k1, k2tog, slip yo2 from last row off your needle, yo2, ssk, k1] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2 (33sts)
Row 9 – p2 [p2, yo4, , slip yo2 from last row off your needle, pick up all of the 5 dropped yo from the 5 previous rows and k and p into them (pictures for this at the end of the pattern) , yo4, p2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, p2 (73sts)
Row 10 – k2 [k2, k4tbl, k2, k4tbl, k2] repeat [to] to last 2 sts, k2
Work in stockinette st starting on a wrong side row (purl row) until your work measures appx 5.5ins from cast on edge. End after completing a right side (knit) row.
Place a stitch marker on either end of the row here.
DECREASES
Row 1 – p70, p2tog, p1 (72sts)
Row 2 – k1 [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (62sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Cut 6 pieces of yarn approximately 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the hood. Pull the ends through this loop.