Looking for a fingering weight bonnet pattern? Find my favorites at the bonnet pattern page, with Chain Bonnet at the bottom!
If there’s one thing I’ll never have too many of, it’s bonnets. And not just any bonnets—give me a delicate, detailed fingering weight bonnet pattern any day of the week! There’s something so satisfying about the lightweight drape, the crisp stitch definition, and the sheer number of gorgeous details you can pack into just a few stitches. Whether you’re knitting for a newborn photo prop, a baby shower gift, or your own keepsake box, these are the kind of projects that make your needles (and heart) happy.
Today, I’m sharing the pattern for my newest fingering weight bonnet pattern that I’ve designed and love. The featured ones are all tucked neatly over on the bonnet pattern page, but I’m also going to tell you about my newest design—the Chain Bonnet—which you’ll find at the bottom of this post!
Why I Love a Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern
There’s a time and a place for chunky yarns—but fingering weight yarn? That’s my comfort zone. It’s soft, it’s sweet, and it blocks out into a delicate masterpiece every single time. And when it comes to fingering weight bonnet patterns, you get the best of all worlds: texture, lightness, and a dainty look that’s perfect for little heads.
If you’ve never knit with fingering weight yarn before, don’t be intimidated. I used to avoid it, thinking it would take forever. Spoiler alert: these bonnets are so small, you’ll fly through them before your coffee gets cold.
What You Need for a Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern
When I design a fingering weight bonnet pattern, I reach for a yarn that’s soft, smooth, and luxurious—but also sturdy enough to show off all the detail. For the Chain Bonnet, I used KnitPicks Capretta (affiliate link). It’s a merino-cashmere-nylon blend that blocks beautifully and feels oh-so-cozy on tiny baby skin.
Needle-wise, I used 3mm KnitPicks 16in circular needles (affiliate link) for the main portion of the bonnet and 3mm KnitPicks DPNs (affiliate link) for the I-Cord ties. They give a lovely tension and smooth glide. Highly recommend!
About the Chain Bonnet – A Unique Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern
Now let’s talk about the Chain Bonnet, because I think you’re going to be just as obsessed as I am. This fingering weight bonnet pattern isn’t just another lace bonnet—it’s got texture, dimension, and a touch of clever construction.
The top of the bonnet features a bold, faux cable chain pattern that’s actually super beginner-friendly once you get the hang of it. It uses a fun little stitch that starts with two stitches, adds a third via a yarn over, and then narrows back to two with a MCDD (modified center double decrease). I’ve created a tutorial to walk you through this stitch step-by-step—[link to MCDD tutorial].
One of my favorite parts of this design is that it’s knit flat. So if you’re not a fan of working in the round on tiny DPNs, this one’s for you! After knitting the main body, you’ll seam up the crown using the mattress stitch. If you’re new to seaming or just need a refresher, check out my tutorial here—[link to mattress stitch tutorial].
The Chain Series – More than Just a Bonnet
While the Chain Bonnet might be the latest in the lineup, it’s not a solo act. If you loved the look of the stitch pattern, check out the Chain Ankle Socks—they use the same MCDD faux cable texture and make the cutest coordinating set for gifting or newborn photos. [link to Chain Ankle Socks pattern]
And stay tuned… the Chain stitch design is making appearances in other upcoming patterns too!
More Fingering Weight Bonnet Patterns to Try
Don’t stop with just the Chain Bonnet! Over on my bonnet pattern page, I’ve shared a handful of other designs that use fingering weight yarn and are perfect for tiny noggins. Some are simple stockinette for when you just want to knit and chill. Others have lace, cables, or picot edges to dress things up.
If you’re like me and want to try every kind of fingering weight bonnet pattern under the sun, it’s a great place to explore and pick your next cast-on.
Why You’ll Love Knitting a Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern
Here’s what I love most about these lightweight bonnets:
- Portable – Throw one in your purse and you’re ready to knit on the go.
- Stretchy + Snug – They fit tiny heads without being too tight or too heavy.
- Timeless – These designs never go out of style.
- Perfect for gifting – Whether it’s for a baby shower, newborn session, or donation, a handmade bonnet always warms hearts.
Once you knit one fingering weight bonnet pattern, you’ll probably want to try more. They’re addicting in the best way.
Let’s Talk Yarn Again
Before I wrap up, I just want to give one more shoutout to the yarn and tools I used for the Chain Bonnet.
- KnitPicks Capretta (affiliate link) – soft, smooth, and it blocks like a dream.
- 3mm KnitPicks 16in circular needles (affiliate link) – perfect for the main body.
- 3mm KnitPicks DPNs (affiliate link) – ideal for I-Cord ties.
I’m all about making patterns that are both enjoyable to knit and lovely to wear, and the right materials make all the difference.
Ready to Cast On?
If you’re itching to knit a fingering weight bonnet pattern, you’ve got options galore. Head to my bonnet pattern page to browse them all, and when you’re ready for something with texture, try the Chain Bonnet pattern at the bottom of this post.
Whether you’re a lace-lover, texture-stitch enthusiast, or simple stockinette purist, there’s a fingering weight bonnet pattern waiting for your needles.
Yarn – 1 skein KnitPicks Capretta (50g 230yd)
Gauge – 32x44sts per 4x4in or 10x10cm
Needles – 2 (3mm) circular and dpn
Other –yarn needle
Sizes – newborn, 0-3m (3-6m, 6-12m),toddler, child
Head Measurement
12-14in/30-35cms
13-15in/32.5-37.5cms
14-16in/35-40cms
15-17in/37.5-42.5cms
16-18in/40-45cm
17-19in/42.5-47.5cms
Finished Laid Flat Bonnet Measurements
5x5ins/12.5×12.5cms
5.5×5.5ins/14x14cms
6x6ins/15x15cms
6.5×6.5ins/16x16cms
7x7ins/17.5×17.5cms
7.5×7.5ins/19x19cm
Chain Bonnet is worked flat and the crown is sewn together. I added an applied i-cord edge to the neck for a finished look.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
BONNET
Cast on 80, 84 (92, 104) 112, 120sts. I used the long tail cast on.
Work 1×1 ribbing as follows:
Row 1 – k1 [p2, k2] across to last 3sts, p2, k1
Row 2 – p1[k2, p2] across to last 3sts, k2, p1
Work for a total of .5, .5 (.75, .75) 1. 1in or 1.5, 1.5 (2, 2) 2.5, 2.5cms ending after completing a right side row.
You will now start the body of the hat beginning on a wrong side row, working the Chain Stitch pattern as follows:
Row 1 – p1, k1, [k1, p1, yo, p1, k1] across to last 2 sts, k1, p1
Row 2 – k1, p1, [p1, k3, p1] across to last 2 sts, p1, k1
Row 3 – p1, k1, [k1, p3, k1] across to last 2 sts, k1, p1
Row 4 – k1, p1, [p1, mcdd (sl1, k1, psso, put this st back on your working needle, k2tog knitting through the back loop of the st already decreased – You can find a tutorial for this stitch here.), p1] across to last 2 sts, p1, k1
Repeat rows 1-4 until your work measures appx 3.5, 4 (4.5, 5) 5.5, 6ins/9, 10 (11, 12.5) 14, 15 cm ending after completing a row 3. Place a marker on either end of this row. This marks the beginning of the crown. These markers are for when you sew the crown together.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1, p2tog [mcdd (sl1, k1, psso, put this st back on your working needle, k2tog knitting through the back loop of the st already decreased), p2tog] Repeat [to] across to last stitch, k1(60, 63 (69, 78) 84, 90sts)
Row 2 – p1, k1, [p1, yo, p1, k1] across to last stitch, p1
Row 3 – k1, p1, [k3, p1] across to last stitch, k1
Row 4 – p1, k1, [p3, k1] across to last stitch, p1
Row 5 – k1, p1 [mcdd (sl1, k1, psso, put this st back on your working needle, k2tog knitting through the back loop of the st already decreased), p1] Repeat [to] across to last stitch, k1
Row 6 – p1, k1, [p1, yo, p1, k1] across to last stitch, p1
Row 7 – k1, [k2tog, k2] across to last 2sts, k2tog (60, 63 (69, 78) 84, 90sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, p1 [mcdd (sl1, k1, psso, put this st back on your working needle, k2tog knitting through the back loop of the st already decreased), p1] Repeat [to] across to last stitch, k1 (40, 42 (46, 52) 56, 60sts)
Row 10 – p1 [p1, yo, p1] across to last st, p1
Row 11 – knit across
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, [mcdd (sl1, k1, psso, put this st back on your working needle, k2tog knitting through the back loop of the st already decreased)] Repeat [to] across to last stitch, k1
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1 [k2tog] across to last st, k1 (21, 22 (24, 27) 29, 31sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1 [k2tog] across to last 0, 1 (1, 0) 0, 0 st k0, 1 (1, 0) 0, 0st (11, 12 (13, 14) 15, 16sts)
Row 18 – p1, 0 (1, 0) 1, 0, [p2tog] across (6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 8sts)
Do not bind off. Cut a tail appx 6-8ins long. Using a yarn needle, pull through remaining stitches and cinch sts closed tightly. With this tail mattress stitch you crown together to the markers. Weave in ends.
I-cord Ties: Cast on 3sts on double pointed needles and work appx 9-10ins for personal use and 12-14ins for photography use of i-cord (tutorial at the end of the pattern). Begin i-cord edging by using the length of i-cord you have already worked. Do so by knitting 2 icord sts, slip the last st, dip the needle into the edge of the back loop of the bonnet, and bringing the yarn across to knit, pick up a stitch in your salvage edge. Knit the last stitch of Icord together with the picked stitch of the bonnet. Once you have picked up and knit across salvage edge stitches, work an additional length of i-cord that matches the other tie. Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit
P – purl
sl – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
mcdd – sl1, k1, psso, put this st back on your working needle, k2tog knitting through the back loop of the st already decreased You can find a tutorial for this stitch here.
Chain Bonnet PDF
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