Looking for a fingering weight bonnet pattern? Find my favorites at the bonnet pattern page, with Chain Bonnet at the bottom!

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If there’s one thing I’ll never have too many of, it’s bonnets. And not just any bonnets—give me a delicate, detailed fingering weight bonnet pattern any day of the week! There’s something so satisfying about the lightweight drape, the crisp stitch definition, and the sheer number of gorgeous details you can pack into just a few stitches. Whether you’re knitting for a newborn photo prop, a baby shower gift, or your own keepsake box, these are the kind of projects that make your needles (and heart) happy.

Today, I’m sharing the pattern for my newest fingering weight bonnet pattern that I’ve designed and love. The featured ones are all tucked neatly over on the bonnet pattern page, but I’m also going to tell you about my newest design—the Chain Bonnet—which you’ll find at the bottom of this post!

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Why I Love a Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern

There’s a time and a place for chunky yarns—but fingering weight yarn? That’s my comfort zone. It’s soft, it’s sweet, and it blocks out into a delicate masterpiece every single time. And when it comes to fingering weight bonnet patterns, you get the best of all worlds: texture, lightness, and a dainty look that’s perfect for little heads.

If you’ve never knit with fingering weight yarn before, don’t be intimidated. I used to avoid it, thinking it would take forever. Spoiler alert: these bonnets are so small, you’ll fly through them before your coffee gets cold.

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What You Need for a Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern

When I design a fingering weight bonnet pattern, I reach for a yarn that’s soft, smooth, and luxurious—but also sturdy enough to show off all the detail. For the Chain Bonnet, I used KnitPicks Capretta (affiliate link). It’s a merino-cashmere-nylon blend that blocks beautifully and feels oh-so-cozy on tiny baby skin.

Needle-wise, I used 3mm KnitPicks 16in circular needles (affiliate link) for the main portion of the bonnet and 3mm KnitPicks DPNs (affiliate link) for the I-Cord ties. They give a lovely tension and smooth glide. Highly recommend!

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About the Chain Bonnet – A Unique Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern

Now let’s talk about the Chain Bonnet, because I think you’re going to be just as obsessed as I am. This fingering weight bonnet pattern isn’t just another lace bonnet—it’s got texture, dimension, and a touch of clever construction.

The top of the bonnet features a bold, faux cable chain pattern that’s actually super beginner-friendly once you get the hang of it. It uses a fun little stitch that starts with two stitches, adds a third via a yarn over, and then narrows back to two with a MCDD (modified center double decrease). I’ve created a tutorial to walk you through this stitch step-by-step—[link to MCDD tutorial].

One of my favorite parts of this design is that it’s knit flat. So if you’re not a fan of working in the round on tiny DPNs, this one’s for you! After knitting the main body, you’ll seam up the crown using the mattress stitch. If you’re new to seaming or just need a refresher, check out my tutorial here—[link to mattress stitch tutorial].

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The Chain Series – More than Just a Bonnet

While the Chain Bonnet might be the latest in the lineup, it’s not a solo act. If you loved the look of the stitch pattern, check out the Chain Ankle Socks—they use the same MCDD faux cable texture and make the cutest coordinating set for gifting or newborn photos. [link to Chain Ankle Socks pattern]

And stay tuned… the Chain stitch design is making appearances in other upcoming patterns too!

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More Fingering Weight Bonnet Patterns to Try

Don’t stop with just the Chain Bonnet! Over on my bonnet pattern page, I’ve shared a handful of other designs that use fingering weight yarn and are perfect for tiny noggins. Some are simple stockinette for when you just want to knit and chill. Others have lace, cables, or picot edges to dress things up.

If you’re like me and want to try every kind of fingering weight bonnet pattern under the sun, it’s a great place to explore and pick your next cast-on.

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Why You’ll Love Knitting a Fingering Weight Bonnet Pattern

Here’s what I love most about these lightweight bonnets:

• Portable – Throw one in your purse and you’re ready to knit on the go.
• Stretchy + Snug – They fit tiny heads without being too tight or too heavy.
• Timeless – These designs never go out of style.
• Perfect for gifting – Whether it’s for a baby shower, newborn session, or donation, a handmade bonnet always warms hearts.

Once you knit one fingering weight bonnet pattern, you’ll probably want to try more. They’re addicting in the best way.

My Peace Bonnet knitting pattern is another way to enjoy fingering-weight yarn, with its detail coming from alternating garter ridges and ribbing.

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Let’s Talk Yarn Again

Before I wrap up, I just want to give one more shoutout to the yarn and tools I used for the Chain Bonnet.

• KnitPicks Capretta (affiliate link) – soft, smooth, and it blocks like a dream.
• 3mm KnitPicks 16in circular needles (affiliate link) – perfect for the main body.
• 3mm KnitPicks DPNs (affiliate link) – ideal for I-Cord ties.

I’m all about making patterns that are both enjoyable to knit and lovely to wear, and the right materials make all the difference.

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Ready to Cast On?

If you’re itching to knit a fingering weight bonnet pattern, you’ve got options galore. Head to my bonnet pattern page to browse them all, and when you’re ready for something with texture, try the Chain Bonnet pattern at the bottom of this post.

Whether you’re a lace-lover, texture-stitch enthusiast, or simple stockinette purist, there’s a fingering weight bonnet pattern waiting for your needles.

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Chain Bonnet Free Pattern

Yarn: 1 skein Knit Picks Capretta (230 yds / 210 m per 50 g).

Gauge: 32 sts and 44 rows per 4 × 4 in / 10 × 10 cm

Needles: US 2½ (3 mm) circular needle for working flat, plus matching DPNs for the i-cord.

Other supplies: Tapestry needle and 2 removable stitch markers.

Sizes – newborn, 0-3m (3-6m, 6-12m),toddler, child

To fit head circumference:
Newborn: 12–14 in / 30.5–35.5 cm
0–3 months: 13–15 in / 33–38 cm
3–6 months: 14–16 in / 35.5–40.5 cm
6–12 months: 15–17 in / 38–43 cm
Toddler: 16–18 in / 40.5–45.5 cm
Child: 17–19 in / 43–48.5 cm

Approximate finished measurements, laid flat, excluding ties:
Newborn: 5 × 5 in / 12.5 × 12.5 cm
0–3 months: 5½ × 5½ in / 14 × 14 cm
3–6 months: 6 × 6 in / 15 × 15 cm
6–12 months: 6½ × 6½ in / 16.5 × 16.5 cm
Toddler: 7 × 7 in / 18 × 18 cm
Child: 7½ × 7½ in / 19 × 19 cm

Chain Bonnet is worked flat and the crown is sewn together. I added an applied i-cord edge to the neck for a finished look.

Abbreviations can be found on the last page.

BONNET

Cast on 80, 84 (92, 104) 112, 120sts. I used the long tail cast on.

Work 2×2 ribbing with single-stitch edges as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K1, [p2, k2] to the last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, [k2, p2] to the last 3 sts, k2, p1.

Repeat Rows 1–2 until the ribbing measures approximately ½, ½ (¾, ¾), 1, 1 in / 1.5, 1.5 (2, 2), 2.5, 2.5 cm, ending after a RS row.

You will now start the body of the hat.

Begin on a WS row.

Row 1 (WS): P1, k1, [k1, p1, yo, p1, k1] to the last 2 sts, k1, p1.

[99, 104 (114, 129), 139, 149 sts]
Row 2 (RS): K1, p1, [p1, k3, p1] to the last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Row 3 (WS): P1, k1, [k1, p3, k1] to the last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 4 (RS): K1, p1, [p1, mcdd, p1] to the last 2 sts, p1, k1.

[80, 84 (92, 104), 112, 120 sts]

MCDD: Slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Leave the resulting stitch on the right needle. Lift the back leg of the stitch directly below it onto the left needle, then knit the lifted stitch together with the next stitch. Three stitches become two; 1 stitch decreased.

Repeat rows 1-4 until your work measures appx 3.5, 4 (4.5, 5) 5.5, 6ins/9, 10 (11, 12.5) 14, 15 cm ending after completing a row 3. Place a marker on either end of this row. This marks the beginning of the crown.

DECREASES

Row 1 (RS): K1, p2tog, [mcdd, p2tog] to the last st, k1.
[60, 63 (69, 78), 84, 90 sts]

Row 2 (WS): P1, k1, [p1, yo, p1, k1] to the last st, p1.
[79, 83 (91, 103), 111, 119 sts]

Row 3: K1, p1, [k3, p1] to the last st, k1.

Row 4: P1, k1, [p3, k1] to the last st, p1.

Row 5: K1, p1, [mcdd, p1] to the last st, k1.
[60, 63 (69, 78), 84, 90 sts]

Row 6: P1, k1, [p1, yo, p1, k1] to the last st, p1.
[79, 83 (91, 103), 111, 119 sts]

Row 7: K1, [k2tog, k2] to the last 2 sts, k2tog.
[59, 62 (68, 77), 83, 89 sts]

Row 8: Purl all sts.

Row 9: K1, work mcdd to the last st, k1.
[40, 42 (46, 52), 56, 60 sts]

Row 10: P1, [p1, yo, p1] to the last st, p1.
[59, 62 (68, 77), 83, 89 sts]

Row 11: Knit all sts.

Row 12: Purl all sts.

Row 13: K1, work mcdd to the last st, k1.
[40, 42 (46, 52), 56, 60 sts]

Row 14: Purl all sts.

Row 15: K1, work k2tog to the last st, k1.
[21, 22 (24, 27), 29, 31 sts]

Row 16: Purl all sts.

Row 17: K1, work k2tog to the last 0, 1 (1, 0), 0, 0 sts. Knit any remaining stitch.
[11, 12 (13, 14), 15, 16 sts]

Row 18: P1, 0 (1, 0), 1, 0 sts, then work p2tog to the end.
[6, 6 (7, 7), 8, 8 sts]

Cut yarn, leaving a tail approximately 6–8 in / 15–20.5 cm long. Using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the remaining stitches and pull tight to close the crown. Secure the gathered stitches.

Fold the bonnet with the WS together and align the crown edges. Using mattress stitch, sew the crown edges together from the gathered stitches down to the markers. Join additional yarn if needed. Remove the markers and weave in the ends.

Cast on 3 sts onto a DPN.

Knit 3. Without turning, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. Bring the yarn firmly across the back and knit the 3 stitches again. Repeat until the tie measures approximately 9–10 in / 23–25.5 cm for personal use, or 12–14 in / 30.5–35.5 cm for supervised photography use.

Continue with these 3 stitches to work the applied i-cord along the lower neck edge, from one front corner to the other. Keep the RS of the bonnet facing you.

Attachment row: K2, slip 1 knitwise, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the bonnet’s neck edge, then pass the slipped stitch over the picked-up stitch. [3 i-cord sts remain]

Slide the stitches to the other end of the DPN without turning. Bring the yarn across the back and repeat the attachment row, picking up stitches evenly along the neck edge so the edging lies flat without gathering or flaring.

At the opposite front corner, stop attaching the i-cord and continue working plain 3-stitch i-cord until the second tie matches the first. Bind off the 3 sts and weave in the ends.

Never leave a baby unattended while wearing a bonnet with ties. Remove the bonnet before sleep.

ABBREVIATIONS

DPN(s) — double-pointed needle(s)
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 stitches together; 1 stitch decreased
mcdd — slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Leave the resulting stitch on the right needle. Lift the back leg of the stitch directly below it onto the left needle, then knit the lifted stitch together with the next stitch. Three stitches become two; 1 stitch decreased
p — purl
p2tog — purl 2 stitches together; 1 stitch decreased
psso — pass slipped stitch over
RS — right side
sl — slip
st/sts — stitch/stitches
WS — wrong side
yo — yarn over; 1 stitch increased

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