Looking for a stunning photo prop knit bonnet? This sweet pattern is at the bottom of the post—more props linked on the photo prop pattern page!
As someone who’s been knitting longer than I’ve been legally allowed to drive, designing the perfect photo prop knit bonnet has become a bit of a personal mission. There’s just something heart-melting about a teeny tiny bonnet that frames a newborn’s face like a soft little halo. Add some texture, soft ties, and a luxurious yarn? I’m all in.
Let me take you on the journey of how the Acadia Bonnet came to life—and why it’s now one of my favorite photo prop knit bonnet designs ever. Whether you’re knitting for a photo shoot, a gift, or a keepsake, you’ll want to stick around to the end of the post where you’ll find this pattern—and if you’re on the hunt for more baby photo props, don’t miss the full collection linked right here: Free Photo Prop Patterns.
Why I Designed This Photo Prop Knit Bonnet
I wanted a photo prop knit bonnet that could do it all—subtle, elegant, easy enough to knit (but not boring), and above all else, soft and comfortable for those precious newborns. I’d been playing around with slipped stitches lately and found a sweet little texture that reminded me of handwoven fabric. That’s where this bonnet’s story began.
I envisioned a classic silhouette with wide, knitted ties for a secure but gentle fit. It needed to photograph beautifully from every angle, and I wanted it to be one of those “pass-it-down-to-the-next-baby” kind of pieces.
The Yarn That Brings It All Together
For this photo prop knit bonnet, I chose Madelinetosh Pashmina (affiliate link), and let me just say—this yarn is the knitting equivalent of velvet. It’s a dreamy blend of merino wool, silk, and cashmere (yes, please), and it glides through your fingers like a warm cup of tea in yarn form.
Every time I knit with Madelinetosh Pashmina (affiliate link), I’m reminded why it’s a top pick for my most treasured pieces. The subtle sheen from the silk gives the slipped stitch texture just enough depth to pop in a photo without being flashy. And those hand-dyed colorways? Swoon.
Knitting the Texture
One of my favorite features of this photo prop knit bonnet is the slipped stitch texture. It’s simple to work—no cable needles or complicated lace—just the quiet rhythm of slipping a stitch and letting the yarn do its thing.
This texture adds just enough visual interest without taking away from the classic feel. Plus, it helps the fabric lay a little thicker without being bulky, making it warm but still breathable. Perfect for those delicate newborn heads.
The Wide Ties (aka the Underrated MVPs)
Let’s talk about the knitted ties. I tried a few different versions before settling on the final width. I wanted ties that looked elegant, tied beautifully under a chin, and could even be left loose for a more relaxed, boho look.
The result is a wide, flat tie that’s both practical and pretty—adding balance to the bonnet shape while also helping it stay put. If you’ve ever wrangled a newborn mid-photo shoot, you know secure bonnets are everything.
Why It Works So Well for Newborn Photos
There are a few reasons this photo prop knit bonnet has become one of my go-to picks for newborn shoots:
- The texture photographs beautifully, even in soft natural light.
- The shape frames the baby’s face without distracting from it.
- The ties are long enough for flexible styling.
- The fit is stretchy enough to suit a 6–10 lb baby comfortably.
Pair it with a soft wrap, or even just a diaper cover, and it instantly levels up any newborn setup.
Feedback from Fellow Knitters
The knitting community always blows me away. Since sharing the Acadia Bonnet, I’ve gotten so many sweet photos and messages! One knitter told me she made four for her niece’s twins—yes, four! She was experimenting with different DK yarns and colorways, and each one came out beautifully.
Another knitter sent me a photo of her newborn grandson in his bonnet, and it just about melted my heart. She said the photo prop knit bonnet became a treasured keepsake they plan to save for the next baby in the family.
Tips for Knitting Your Own Photo Prop Knit Bonnet
Ready to cast on? Here are a few tips that’ll help your Acadia Bonnet come out picture perfect:
- Swatch first! I know, I know. But really—swatching will help make sure your gauge is on point.
- Use Madelinetosh Pashmina (affiliate link) or another DK yarn that’s soft and gentle. Don’t skip the softness—baby heads deserve the best.
- Mark your stitches. Especially when you’re working decreases, stitch markers will save your sanity.
- Block your bonnet. A quick soak and shape really brings out that slipped stitch magic.
Color Choices That Pop
For my original sample, I went with a soft, neutral tone from Madelinetosh Pashmina (affiliate link). It blends beautifully in almost any photo setup, and the gentle sheen adds just a hint of luxury.
But don’t feel boxed in! Jewel tones can make the texture sing. Earthy naturals? Timeless and classic. Or go bold with a rich hand-dyed pop of color—each version brings its own charm to this photo prop knit bonnet.
It’s More Than Just a Bonnet
This photo prop knit bonnet isn’t just a pattern—it’s a memory in the making. Whether it’s a gift for a new mama, a project for your portfolio, or just a cozy day on the couch kind of knit, it holds so much love in every stitch.
There’s something wonderful about knowing your knitting can be part of someone’s first photos, their first snuggles, maybe even tucked away in a keepsake box one day.
Ready to Make Your Own?
The Acadia Bonnet has officially earned a spot in my go-to list of photo prop knit bonnet patterns—and I think it’s about to earn a place in yours, too. The full pattern is at the bottom of this post, but don’t forget to check out all the other newborn photo prop patterns I’ve put together right here.
Grab your needles, a cup of tea, and that skein of Madelinetosh Pashmina (affiliate link) you’ve been saving. Let’s cast on something special.
Let me know how yours turns out—I love seeing your creations!
Materials and Info
MATERIALS: appx 80-160yds of sport (3) yarn (I used madelinetosh pashmina), Size 6 (4mm) needles, stitch markers, yarn needle
Gauge: appx 5sts/inch in stockenette st Gauge is very important!
Sizes (appx finished head circumference) : newborn (13ins), 3 months (14.5ins), 6 months (16ins), toddler (17.5ins)
Stitch Key
K – knit
p – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip, slip, knit
Yo – yarn over
sl – slip
PATTERN NOTE – If you need help understanding rows 4/8/12/16 I created a video for you but remember, I am left-handed so this may appear backwards to you if you but it will give you a good idea how to do it:
Acadia Bonnet Pattern
NEWBORN
Cast on 182sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 62sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (168sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (182sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (168sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (62sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (48sts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (62sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (48sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (62sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 4ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 62sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts) Place
markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
3 MONTHS
Cast on 190sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 70sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (174sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (190sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (174sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (70sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (54ts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [[insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (70sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (54sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (70sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 4.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 70sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across (60sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (50sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (40sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (30sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – [k2tog,1] repeat [to] across (20sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – [k2tog] repeat [to] across (10sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown togetherto your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
6 MONTHS
Cast on 198sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 78sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (182sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (198sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk]
repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (182sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (78sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (60ts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [[insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (78sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (60sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (78sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 78sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1, [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across (67sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (56sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (45sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (34sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, k2tog,1] repeat [to] across (23sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, [k2tog] repeat [to] across (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
TODDLER
Cast on 206sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 86sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (186sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (206sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (186sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (86sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (66ts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [[insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (86sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (66sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (86sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 5.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 86sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1, [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (74sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (62sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (50sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (38sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, k2tog,1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (26sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (14sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
Acadia Bonnet PDF
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