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Knitting has always been a therapeutic and creative outlet for me, and designing newborn photo props is one of my favorite ways to blend this craft with my passion for photography. Today, I’m excited to share the story behind the Acadia Bonnet, a free knitting pattern that has quickly become one of my favorite projects. This bonnet features a subtle and beautiful slipped stitch texture, wide knitted ties, and is made using the luxurious Madelinetosh Pashmina yarn.
Inspiration Behind the Acadia Bonnet
The inspiration for the Acadia Bonnet came from a desire to create something timeless yet modern. I wanted a design that would not only be functional as a newborn photo prop but also exude an understated elegance. The slipped stitch texture adds just the right amount of visual interest without overwhelming the simplicity of the bonnet. The wide knitted ties provide a secure fit while also adding a touch of charm.
When I first envisioned the Acadia Bonnet, I imagined it in a soft, luxurious yarn that would be gentle on a newborn’s delicate skin. Madelinetosh Pashmina was the perfect choice. This yarn is a blend of merino wool, silk, and cashmere, making it incredibly soft and warm. The subtle sheen of the silk adds an extra layer of sophistication to the bonnet, and the rich, hand-dyed colors of Madelinetosh yarns bring the design to life in a way that few other yarns can.
The Journey of Creating the Pattern
Creating the Acadia Bonnet pattern was a journey of experimentation and refinement. I started with the idea of incorporating slipped stitches to create a textured fabric. Slipped stitches are a wonderful way to add texture without adding bulk, which was crucial for a newborn bonnet. After several swatches and adjustments, I found a slipped stitch pattern that created a delicate, almost woven look.
The wide knitted ties were another feature that went through several iterations. I wanted them to be wide enough to be comfortable and secure but not so wide that they would overpower the bonnet. After trying different widths and techniques, I settled on a design that uses a simple yet elegant knitted tie that complements the bonnet perfectly.
Knitting with Madelinetosh Pashmina
Knitting with Madelinetosh Pashmina is a truly luxurious experience. The yarn glides smoothly through your fingers, and the resulting fabric is incredibly soft and drapey. Pashmina’s blend of merino wool, silk, and cashmere provides the perfect balance of warmth, softness, and durability. The yarn’s subtle sheen highlights the slipped stitch texture beautifully, adding depth and dimension to the bonnet.
One of the things I love most about Madelinetosh yarns is their stunning color palette. Whether you prefer soft pastels, vibrant jewel tones, or rich neutrals, there is a color to suit every taste. For the Acadia Bonnet, I chose a soft, muted shade that would complement a variety of newborn outfits and backgrounds. The hand-dyed nature of the yarn means that each bonnet is unique, with subtle variations in color that add to its charm.
The Versatility of the Acadia Bonnet
One of the reasons the Acadia Bonnet has become a favorite in my collection of newborn photo props is its versatility. The subtle texture and classic design make it suitable for both boys and girls. It can be dressed up with a coordinating outfit for a formal photo shoot or paired with a simple onesie for a more casual look.
The wide knitted ties not only provide a secure fit but also allow for versatility in styling. They can be tied in a neat bow under the chin for a classic look, or left untied for a more relaxed, bohemian feel. The bonnet’s timeless design ensures that it will remain a cherished keepsake for years to come.
Feedback from the Knitting Community
Since releasing the Acadia Bonnet pattern, I have received wonderful feedback from fellow knitters. Many have shared photos of their finished bonnets, and it’s been incredibly rewarding to see the different interpretations of the pattern. Some have experimented with different yarns and colors, while others have added their own embellishments to make the bonnet unique.
One of the most touching pieces of feedback came from a new grandmother who knitted the Acadia Bonnet for her first grandchild. She shared that the bonnet became a cherished part of their newborn photo session and will be passed down as a family heirloom. Stories like these remind me of the joy and connection that knitting can bring.
Tips for Knitting the Acadia Bonnet
If you’re planning to knit the Acadia Bonnet, here are a few tips to ensure success:
- Swatch First: Because gauge can vary depending on your knitting style and yarn choice, I recommend knitting a swatch before starting the bonnet. This will help ensure that your finished bonnet fits as expected.
- Choose the Right Yarn: While Madelinetosh Pashmina is my yarn of choice for this pattern, you can use any soft, DK weight yarn. Just be sure to choose a yarn that is gentle on a newborn’s skin.
- Pay Attention to Stitch Counts: The slipped stitch pattern requires careful attention to stitch counts, especially during decreases. Use stitch markers to help keep track of your stitches and ensure that the pattern remains consistent.
- Block Your Finished Bonnet: Blocking is an important step that helps even out the stitches and gives the bonnet its final shape. Wet blocking works well for this pattern; simply soak the bonnet in lukewarm water, gently squeeze out the excess water, and shape it to the desired dimensions.
Conclusion
The Acadia Bonnet is more than just a knitting pattern; it’s a labor of love that combines subtle elegance with practical functionality. Knitting this bonnet is a delightful experience, from the tactile pleasure of working with Madelinetosh Pashmina to the satisfaction of creating a beautiful, timeless piece for a newborn.
I hope you enjoy knitting the Acadia Bonnet as much as I enjoyed designing it. Whether you’re making it for your own little one, as a gift, or as a treasured addition to your collection of photo props, this bonnet is sure to become a favorite. Happy knitting!
Materials and Info
MATERIALS: appx 80-160yds of sport (3) yarn (I used madelinetosh pashmina), Size 6 (4mm) needles, stitch markers, yarn needle
Gauge: appx 5sts/inch in stockenette st Gauge is very important!
Sizes (appx finished head circumference) : newborn (13ins), 3 months (14.5ins), 6 months (16ins), toddler (17.5ins)
Stitch Key
K – knit
p – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip, slip, knit
Yo – yarn over
sl – slip
PATTERN NOTE – If you need help understanding rows 4/8/12/16 I created a video for you but remember, I am left-handed so this may appear backwards to you if you but it will give you a good idea how to do it:
Acadia Bonnet Pattern
NEWBORN
Cast on 182sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 62sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (168sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (182sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (168sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (62sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (48sts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (62sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (48sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (62sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 4ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 62sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts) Place
markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
3 MONTHS
Cast on 190sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 70sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (174sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (190sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (174sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (70sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (54ts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [[insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (70sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (54sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (70sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 4.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 70sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across (60sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (50sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (40sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (30sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – [k2tog,1] repeat [to] across (20sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – [k2tog] repeat [to] across (10sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown togetherto your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
6 MONTHS
Cast on 198sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 78sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (182sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (198sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk]
repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (182sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (78sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (60ts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [[insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (78sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (60sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (78sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 78sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1, [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across (67sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across (56sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across (45sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across (34sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, k2tog,1] repeat [to] across (23sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, [k2tog] repeat [to] across (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
TODDLER
Cast on 206sts.
Your ties are in this cast on. You will bind off to complete the ties on row 8
Row 1 (wrong side) – purl for 60sts, place marker, purl for 86sts, place marker, purl for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (186sts)
Row 3 – purl across
Row 4 – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (206sts)
Row 5 – purl across
Row 6 – Row 2 (right side) – knit to marker, sl marker, k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, sl marker knit across (186sts)
Row 7 – purl across
Row 8 (tie row) – cast off to marker, remove marker, k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to 3sts before next marker, k3, remove marker, cast off remaining 60sts. (86sts) Cut yarn.
Rejoin yarn on remain stitches
Row 9 – purl across
Row 10 – k3 [k2tog, ssk, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (66ts)
Row 11 – purl across
Row 12 – k3 [[insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk), yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st, k4] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (86sts)
Row 13 – purl across
Row 14 – – k3 [k4, k2tog, ssk] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (66sts)
Row 15 – purl across
Row 16 – k3 [k4, insert needle between the next 2 sts of the previous row directly above the (k2tog,ssk, yo, pick up a new st, k2, insert needle into the same space in the previous row, yo, pick up a new st] repeat [to] across to last 3sts, k3 (86sts)
Repeat rows 9-16 until your work measures appx 5.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row with 86sts of your needle.
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1, [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (74sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (62sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (50sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (38sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, k2tog,1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (26sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (14sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible). Block as necessary.
Acadia Bonnet PDF
