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When I first stumbled upon the Shiloh Romper pattern, I was instantly captivated. As a knitting enthusiast who adores creating delicate and beautiful items for newborn photography, I knew I had found something special. The Shiloh Romper, with its intricate mohair lace design, promised to be the perfect addition to my collection of photo props. The pattern’s elegance and simplicity made it a must-knit, and I couldn’t wait to get started.

Choosing the Right Yarn

One of the first steps in any knitting project is selecting the right yarn. For the Shiloh Romper, the recommended yarn is KnitPicks Aloft, a luxurious blend of 72% Super Kid Mohair and 28% Silk. This yarn is a dream to work with, offering a soft, lightweight, and slightly fuzzy texture that is perfect for newborn photography props. The delicate halo created by the mohair gives the romper an ethereal quality, making it ideal for capturing those precious first moments of a baby’s life.

I chose neutral colorways that I knew would complement any newborn’s skin tone and photographer’s style. The yarn’s subtle sheen and rich color depth added an extra layer of sophistication to the finished piece. You can purchase the yarn for this project here.

Getting Started

With my yarn in hand and my needles at the ready, I embarked on my Shiloh Romper journey. The pattern called for a combination of lace stitches, which I was excited to tackle. Lace knitting can be challenging, but it’s also incredibly rewarding. There’s something magical about watching a delicate pattern emerge from a series of carefully placed yarn overs and decreases.

As I cast on the first stitches, I felt a familiar thrill. Each row brought me closer to the vision I had in my mind of a beautiful, hand-knitted romper that would make any newborn photo session extra special. The pattern was well-written and easy to follow, with clear instructions that guided me through each step.

Knitting the Lace

One of the standout features of the Shiloh Romper is its intricate lace panel. This section of the pattern required my full attention, as lace knitting often does. However, the effort was well worth it. The lace panel added a touch of elegance and sophistication to the romper, creating a focal point that would draw the eye in any photograph.

I found that using stitch markers helped me keep track of the lace repeats and made it easier to stay on track. Additionally, I made a point to count my stitches regularly to ensure I hadn’t made any mistakes. Lace knitting can be unforgiving, but with a bit of care and attention, it’s possible to create something truly stunning.

The Finishing Touches

Once the lace panel was complete, the rest of the romper came together quickly. The pattern included simple yet effective shaping techniques to create a snug fit, perfect for a newborn. I particularly appreciated the attention to detail in the pattern, such as the delicate cabling at the neckline.. These small touches added to the overall aesthetic and ensured a professional finish.

After binding off the last stitch, I carefully wove in all the ends and blocked the romper. Blocking is an essential step in lace knitting, as it helps to open up the lace pattern and even out any inconsistencies. I soaked the romper in a gentle wool wash, then laid it out on my blocking mats, using pins to stretch and shape it to the desired dimensions. Once dry, the Shiloh Romper looked absolutely perfect.

The Photo Shoot

With the romper complete, it was time to put it to the test in a newborn photo shoot. I reached out to a local photographer friend who specializes in newborn photography, and we set up a session. The photographer was thrilled with the romper and couldn’t wait to use it as a prop.

Seeing the romper in action was incredibly rewarding. The delicate mohair lace looked stunning against the baby’s skin, and the soft, airy texture added a dreamy quality to the photos. The blush pink color complemented the newborn’s complexion beautifully, creating a timeless and elegant look. The photographer was delighted with the results, and I couldn’t have been happier with how the Shiloh Romper turned out.

Reflecting on the Experience

Knitting the Shiloh Romper was a truly enjoyable experience. The combination of the beautiful KnitPicks Aloft yarn and the well-designed pattern made for a delightful project from start to finish. As a knitter, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of creating something with your own two hands, especially when that something is as lovely and functional as the Shiloh Romper.

This project reminded me of why I fell in love with knitting in the first place. There’s a unique joy in transforming a skein of yarn into a beautiful, hand-knitted piece that can be treasured for years to come. The Shiloh Romper is more than just a photo prop; it’s a labor of love and a testament to the timeless art of knitting.

Inspiration for Future Projects

The success of the Shiloh Romper has inspired me to explore more lace knitting projects, particularly those that can be used as photo props. The delicate beauty of lace, combined with the luxurious feel of mohair, creates stunning pieces that are perfect for capturing the innocence and beauty of newborns.

I’m already on the lookout for my next project, and I have a feeling it will involve more mohair lace. There’s something about this combination that feels magical, and I’m eager to see what other patterns and designs I can bring to life. Whether it’s another romper, a bonnet, or a delicate blanket, I know that the possibilities are endless.

Final Thoughts

If you’re a knitter looking for a beautiful and rewarding project, I highly recommend the Shiloh Romper. The combination of the intricate lace pattern and the luxurious KnitPicks Aloft yarn creates a stunning piece that is perfect for newborn photography. This project is a wonderful way to showcase your knitting skills and create a cherished item that will be treasured by parents and photographers alike.

So, grab your needles and some mohair yarn, and get ready to create something truly special. The Shiloh Romper is waiting for you, and I promise you’ll enjoy every stitch. Happy knitting!

Materials and Info

Materials: 100-300yds of lace weight (size 0) yarn, size 7 (4.5mm) straight needles, 4 stitch markers, yarn needle, crochet hook (I use a 3.5mm) for ties (or if you don’t know how to crochet chain st you can always just braid the ties), cable needle

Sizes: newborn (6.5x9ins), 3-6mth (7.5×10.5ins), 6-12mths (8.5x12ins)

Gauge – 5sts/ins in stockinette Gauge is very important!!!!

Stitch Key:
K – knit

P – Purl

M1 – make one

yo – yarn over

ssk – slip slip knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

sl – slip st – stitch

psso – pass slip stitch over

cf4 – cable front 4 – slide the next 2sts onto your cable needle and hold in front, knit the next 2sts, knit the 2sts on your cable needle

Shiloh Romper Pattern

NEWBORN
For a picture of how your work will look when complete before seams are sewn see the end of the pattern.
Bottom
Cast on 32 sts.
Work in stockinette st for 3ins starting with a knit row and ending after completing a purl row. Place 1 marker on each end of the end row.
Decrease rows
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows) – purl
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Work 11 rows in stockinette st starting and ending with a purl row.
Increase rows
Row 25 – k1, m1, k16, m1, k1 (20sts)
Row 26 (and all following wrong side rows) – purl
Row 27 – k1, m1, k18, m1, k1 (22sts)
Row 29 – k1, m1, k20, m1, k1 (24sts)
Row 31 – k1, m1, k22, m1, k1 (26sts)
Row 33 – k1, m1, k24, m1, k1 (28sts)
Row 35 – k1, m1, k26, m1, k1 (30sts)
Row 37 – k1, m1, k28, m1, k1 (32sts)
Place 1 marker on each end of the end row.
Work in stockinette st for 3ins starting with a purl row and ending after completing a purl
row. Do not bind off.
Bib
Row 1 – Bind off 5sts, knit across (27sts)
Row 2 – Bind off 5sts, purl across (22sts)
Row 3 – k1 (k2, cf4) Repeat (to) across to last 3sts, k3
Row 4-8 – work in stockinette stitch (beginning with a purl row)
Repeat rows 3-8 until your work measures 3.5ins ending after completing a purl row.
Bind off. Sew side seams. Weave in ends. Now either cut 3 strand of yarn appx 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the bib. Pull the ends through this loop and braid. Repeat on the other side. OR using your crochet hook, chain st for appx 9- 10 ins then chain st across the top of the bib then chain st a further 9-10ins. Finish off.

3-6 MONTHS
For a picture of how your work will look when complete before seams are sewn see the end of the
pattern.
Bottom
Cast on 38 sts.
Work in stockinette st for 3.5ins starting with a knit row and ending after completing a purl row. Place 1 marker on each end of the end row.
Decrease rows
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows) – purl
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row – 17 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Work 13 rows in stockinette st starting and ending with a purl row.
Increase rows
Row 31 – k1, m1, k18, m1, k1 (22sts)
Row 33 – k1, m1, k20, m1, k1 (24sts)
Row 35 – k1, m1, k22, m1, k1 (26sts)
Row 37 – k1, m1, k24, m1, k1 (28sts)
Row 39 – k1, m1, k26, m1, k1 (30sts)
Row 41 – k1, m1, k28, m1, k1 (32sts)
Row 43 – k1, m1, k30, m1, k1 (34sts)
Row 45 – k1, m1, k32, m1, k1 (36sts)
Row 47 – k1, m1, k34, m1, k1 (38sts)
Place 1 marker on each end of the end row.
Work in stockinette st for 3.5ins starting with a purl row and ending after completing a purl row. Do not bind off.
Bib
Row 1 – Bind off 6sts, knit across (32sts)
Row 2 – Bind off 6sts, purl across (26sts)
Row 3 – (k2, cf4) Repeat (to) across to last 2sts, k2
Row 4-8 – work in stockinette stitch (beginning with a purl row)
Repeat rows 3-8 until your work measures 4ins ending after completing a purl row.

Bind off. Sew side seams. Weave in ends. Now either cut 3 strand of yarn appx 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the bib. Pull the ends through this loop and braid. Repeat on the other side. OR using your crochet hook, chain st for appx 9- 10 ins then chain st across the top of the bib then chain st a further 9-10ins. Finish off.

SITTER (APPX 6-12MTHS)
For a picture of how your work will look when complete before seams are sewn see the end of the pattern.
Bottom
Cast on 42 sts.
Work in stockinette st for 4ins starting with a knit row and ending after completing a purl row. Place 1 marker on each end of the end row.
Decrease rows
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k36, k2tog, k1 (40sts)
Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows) – purl
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Work 15 rows in stockinette st starting and ending with a purl row.
Increase rows
Row 35 – k1, m1, k20, m1, k1 (24sts)
Row 37 – k1, m1, k22, m1, k1 (26sts)
Row 39 – k1, m1, k24, m1, k1 (28sts)
Row 41 – k1, m1, k26, m1, k1 (30sts)
Row 43 – k1, m1, k28, m1, k1 (32sts)
Row 45 – k1, m1, k30, m1, k1 (34sts)
Row 47 – k1, m1, k32, m1, k1 (36sts)
Row 49 – k1, m1, k34, m1, k1 (38sts)
Row 51 – k1, m1, k36, m1, k1 (40sts)
Row 53 – k1, m1, k38, m1, k1 (42sts)
Place 1 marker on each end of the end row.
Work in stockinette st for 4ins starting with a purl row and ending after completing a purl
row. Do not bind off.
Bib
Row 1 – Bind off 7sts, knit across (35sts)
Row 2 – Bind off 7sts, purl across (28sts)
Row 3 – k1(k2, cf4) Repeat (to) across to last 3sts, k3
Row 4-8 – work in stockinette stitch (beginning with a purl row)
Repeat rows 3-8 until your work measures 4.5ins ending after completing a purl row.
Bind off. Sew side seams. Weave in ends. Now either cut 3 strand of yarn appx 30ins long. Fold them in half and pull a loop through the front corner of the bib. Pull the ends through this loop and braid. Repeat on the other side. OR using your crochet hook, chain st for appx 9- 10 ins then chain st across the top of the bib then chain st a further 9-10ins. Finish off.

This is an example of how my knitted mohair rompers look upon completing all knitting but before sewing the seams. The pictured example is the Coral Romper but the construction is the same. The piece is knit in one piece. You will mattress stitch the sides together from your cast on edge/bind off before the bib to the markers.

Shiloh Romper PDF