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Mary Cardigan was made for one specific purpose, a sweater for my daughter, Shiloh, for chilly spring mornings. You know, that season where it’s almost coat weather in the morning and evening but tank tops and shorts in the afternoon. Layers are king. And for whatever reason, in size 4, I had nothing. How with 6 older siblings, I don’t know, but I got to work and remedied the situation.

There really wasn’t a question of what stitch pattern I was going to use. I knew right away it had to match Mary Bonnet and Mary Pixie. The problem with that though was it had to be bottom up to work. I had never designed a bottom up raglan. I had made several though so understood the construction.

I used Yarn Bee Must Be Merino in dk. It’s a soft and child friendly yarn. It washes very well. However, it is very splitty so can be a little bit of a pain to work with. But if you want an affordable option for your kid’s sweaters it’s a great option.

Materials and Info

Yarn – 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (3) 3 (3) 4 skeins Yarn Bee Must Be Merino dk (100g 227yd)
Gauge: 24 sts x 34 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in on 3.75 mm [US5] needles
Needles – 4 (3.5mm) dpn & circular 5 (3.75mm) dpn & circulars
Notions – stitch markers, 6 buttons
Sizes – 3mths (6mths) 9mths (12mths) 2yrs (3yrs) 4yrs (5yrs) 6yrs
Bust circumference: 48 (50) 53 (55) 58 (61) 63 (66) 69 cm [19 (19¾) 20¾ (21¾) 22¾ (24) 24¾ (26) 27¼ inches]

Length: 27 (29) 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 (41) 43 cm [10¾ (11½) 12¼ (13) 13¾ (14½) 15¼ (16¼) 17 inches]

METHOD

Mary Cardigan is a bottom-up seamless raglan button cardigan in an easy-care yarn.

LACE PATTERN

Row 1 – [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] work [to] across

Row 2 – purl across

Row 3 – repeat row 1

Row 4 – purl across

Row 5 – knit across

Row 6 – purl across

Row 7 – k1[k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] work [to] across

Row 8 – purl across

Row 9 – repeat row 7

Row 10 – purl across

Row 11 – knit across

Row 12 – purl across

Youth Mary Cardigan Pattern

BODY
Cast on 107 (111) 117 (123) 127 (135) 141 (147) 155 sts using the smaller circular needles
Work 5 rows of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.
Work in lace pattern until your work measures 16 (17) 18 (20) 22 (24) 26 (28) 32 cm [ 6 ¼ (6 ¾) 7 (8) 8 ½ (9 ½) 10 ½ (11) 12 ½ inches] measured from the cast-on edge.
Start lace pattern as follows:
K 1 (3) 2 (1) 3 (3) 2 (1) 1, pm, work in lace pattern across.

Keep track of which row on the lace pattern you ended with for the raglan decreases.

Last Row (ws) – Purl 24 (25) 26 (28) 28 (32) 33 (35) 36 sts, bind off 3 (3) 4 (3) 3 (2) 3 (2) 4 sts, purl 53 (55) 57 (61) 63 (67) 69 (73) 75, bind off 3 (3) 4 (3) 3 (2) 3 (2) 4 sts, purl 24 (25) 26 (28) 28 (32) 33 (35) 36 sts

Put all stitches aside DO NOT CUT YARN.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

Cast on now 26 (28) 30 (32) 36 (38) 40 (40) 42 sts on smaller dpn needles and join in the round.
Work in k1,p1 ribbing for 5 rounds.
Switch to larger dpn needles
Round 1 – k1, M1L, knit across

You will now have 27 (29) 31 (33) 37 (39) 41 (41) 43 sts on the needles

Work in the round in the lace pattern (understanding that when working in the round all “purl across” rows on lace pattern become a “knit across” rows) until the sleeve measures 17 (18) 20 (22) 24 (27) 29 (31) 33 cm [6 ¾ (7) 7 ¾ (8 ½) 9 ½ (10 ½) 11 ¼ (12 ¼) 13 inches] from the cuff or to the desired length, WHILE AT THE SAME TIME working an increase round every 7th (7th) 8th (9th) 13th (12th) 13th (10th) 13th round a total of 5 (6) 6 (6) 5 (6) 6 (8) 7 times, as follows: K1, M1L, work in pattern to the last 3 sts of the round, M1R, k1.
There are now 37 (41) 43 (45) 47 (51) 53 (57) 57 sts on the needles.

End on the same row number of lace chart as your body was ended.

Bind off 2sts, work 33 (37) 39 (41) 43 (47) 49 (53) 53 sts, Bind off 2sts
Cut yarn, put aside on a stitch holder.

Now connect the sleeves and body, while keeping in lace pattern as follows:
Left front: Work 23 (24) 25 (27) 28 (31) 32 (34) 35 sts in pattern, pm, k1, pm
Left sleeve: Work 33 (37) 39 (41) 43 (47) 49 (53) 53 sts from stitch holder, pm
Back: k1, pm work 51 (53) 55 (59) 61 (65) 67 (71) 73 sts in pattern, pm, k1, pm
Right sleeve: Work 33 (37) 39 (41) 43 (47) 49 (53) 53 sts from stitch holder, pm
Right front: k1, pm, Work 23 (24) 25 (27) 28 (31) 32 (34) 35 sts in pattern.
You know have 169 (179) 187 (199) 207 (225) 233 (249) 253 sts
Purl 1 row.

RAGLAN DECREASES
Work raglan decreases as follows:
Row 1 (RS): work in lace pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in lace pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in lace pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in lace pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in lace pattern across (8sts decreased).
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 a total of 13 (14) 15 (16) 17 (19) 20 (22) 22 times.
There are now 63 (67) 67 (71) 71 (73) 73 (73) 77 on needles
Work more 2 more rows in lace pattern if you end on a row 1 or 7 of the lace pattern.

NECK
Switch to smaller circular needles.
Row 1 (RS): k1 p1, k1, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Work 3 more rows back and forth in established rib pattern (k1, p1).
Bind off in established rib pattern using your favorite stretchy bind off.

FRONT RIB EDGES
LEFT FRONT EDGE
Pick up and knit 62 (67) 72 (77) 82 (87) 92 (97) 102 sts along the edge with the smaller sized circular needles.
Work 5 rows of rib (k1, p1).
Bind off in established rib pattern.

RIGHT FRONT EDGE
Pick up and knit 63 (67) 73 (77) 83 (87) 93 (97) 103 sts along the edge with the
smaller sized circular needles.
Work 2 rows in k1p1 ribbing
Buttonhole row: Work 2 sts in established rib pattern, k2tog yarn over, work 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15 (16) 17 sts in established rib pattern, work k2tog, yarn over, repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts, work 3 sts in rib.

FINISHING
Stitch the underarms closed. I prefer a kitchener st but you can use your preferred st. Weave in all ends. Sew the 6 buttons on along the left front edge across from the buttonholes

Abbreviations