Looking for the perfect boy cable sweater pattern? Check out our sweater pattern page for cozy knits—this sweet pattern is below!

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Ever since I started knitting, few things have captured my heart quite like creating sweaters for my kids. There’s just something about crafting a warm, snuggly piece with your own two hands. Today, I’m super excited to share one of my absolute favorites—a boy cable sweater pattern that you’ll adore knitting as much as your little one loves wearing.

This pattern is nestled right here at the bottom of this post, but if you’re craving more cozy options, don’t miss my full collection on the sweater pattern page. Trust me, you’ll want to bookmark that one!

Why I Fell in Love with This Boy Cable Sweater Pattern

Let me tell you, when I first discovered this boy cable sweater pattern, I knew it was special. It’s classic, versatile, and oh-so-cute! I’ve always believed that knitting is about more than just making clothes; it’s about weaving love into every stitch. And this pattern gives you plenty of opportunities to do exactly that.

One of the best things about knitting sweaters for kids is seeing their faces light up when you give them something made especially for them. This boy cable sweater pattern has a timeless style that’s perfect for everyday playdates or special occasions alike. Plus, it’s durable enough to become a treasured heirloom, passed down to younger siblings or even future grandbabies. (Seriously, how sweet would that be?)

Knitting Circles and Cozy Memories with the Boy Cable Sweater Pattern

Knitting is always better when shared, right? One of the highlights of this boy cable sweater pattern is how beginner-friendly it is. Even if you’ve never tackled cables before, don’t worry—I’ve got you covered. Gather some friends, pour some tea (or coffee—I won’t judge!), and have yourselves a knitting circle. There’s nothing quite like crafting together, laughing over dropped stitches, and celebrating each finished row.

The beauty of this boy cable sweater pattern is that it’s equally fun solo. Curl up with your needles and enjoy some peaceful, creative downtime. It’s a win-win!

Choosing the Perfect Yarn for Your Boy Cable Sweater Pattern

When it comes to yarn, I’m pretty picky. After testing (and retesting) lots of options, I chose KnitPicks Mighty Stitch Worsted (affiliate link) for this boy cable sweater pattern, and here’s why: It’s soft, durable, affordable, washable, and available in tons of adorable colors. Honestly, it ticks every box on my dream yarn checklist.

Because, let’s be real, knitting something cute isn’t quite enough—it needs to survive everything from messy meals to muddy playdates. With KnitPicks Mighty Stitch Worsted (affiliate link), your sweater won’t just look great; it’ll hold up beautifully in the washing machine. Hallelujah for low-maintenance knits!

And just to be transparent (because honesty matters to me!), if you grab your yarn through the KnitPicks Mighty Stitch Worsted (affiliate link), I do receive a small commission. But this little kickback is exactly what helps keep all my patterns free for you. A huge thanks for your support!

Personalize Your Boy Cable Sweater Pattern

Now comes my favorite part: personalization. One amazing thing about this boy cable sweater pattern is how easily you can customize it to match your child’s personality. Feeling bold? Go for vibrant shades like reds or blues. Prefer something classic? You can never go wrong with neutrals or pastels.

My son loves picking his own colors, which makes knitting this sweater even more special. Watching him proudly wear his boy cable sweater pattern creation, knowing he helped design it, is pure joy.

Easy-to-Follow Instructions for Your Boy Cable Sweater Pattern

Okay, now let’s talk instructions. I promise you, this boy cable sweater pattern is written with clarity in mind. Whether you’re new to cables or a seasoned pro, you’ll find the step-by-step guidance straightforward and stress-free.

The pattern includes detailed instructions, helpful charts, and my best tips and tricks to keep your knitting journey smooth and fun. Even if you’ve never attempted cables, this boy cable sweater pattern is an ideal starting point. (Really, cables are simpler than they look—I promise!)

A Sweater Full of Love and Warmth

At the end of the day, knitting is about creating something meaningful. With every stitch of this boy cable sweater pattern, you’ll be crafting more than just a sweater—you’ll be making memories. Whether it’s your little one’s new favorite garment or a treasured heirloom handed down, this sweater will hold all your love and warmth.

I genuinely hope you enjoy knitting this boy cable sweater pattern as much as I have. Don’t forget—if you’re looking for even more cozy knits, you’ll find tons of adorable designs on my sweater pattern page.

Ready to get started? Your free boy cable sweater pattern awaits you just below. Happy knitting, friend—I can’t wait to see what you create!

Materials and Info

MATERIALS AND INFO

Size: 3, 4 (5, 6) 7, 8 (9, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14)yrs

Materials: Approximately 3, 3 (3, 4) 4, 4 (5, 5) 5, 6 (6, 7) balls of KnitPick Mighty Stitch Worsted (208y/100g) needle, stitch markers

Needle Size: 7(US) 4.5mm circular needles and dpn, 6(US) 4mm circular and dpn

Gauge (tension): 20sts & 28 rows to make 10cm square, using size 7(US) 4.5mm needles working in stockinette stitch

Chest Measurement: 55, 57 (59, 61) 64, 67 (70, 73) 76, 79 (82, 90) cm

METHOD

Peter Sweater is bottom-up set pullover with set in sleeves in an easy-care yarn. It is worked flat. Created for our 6th child. He wanted something with cables so I created this v-neck for him with a vest for myself in the back of my mind.

Abbreviations can be found on the last page.

Note: choose size based on bust measurement for best fit

1X1 RIB PATTERN

Row 1 (right side row) – (k1, p1) across

Row 2 – knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches.

Youth Peter Sweater Pattern

BACK

Cast on using smaller circular needle: 70, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 90) 92, 96 (98, 108) sts. Join in the round.

Work in 1×1 ribbing for 4cms.

Switch to larger needles.

Work in pattern until piece measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm measuring from cast on.

SHAPE BACK ARMHOLES

Cast off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 4, 5 (4, 5) stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. 62, 64 (66, 68) 72, 74 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 98) sts

Decrease 1 st at each end of following 1, 1 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) rows. 60, 62 (64, 66) 68, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 92) sts

Then decrease 1 st each end of every right side row 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) times 56, 58 (60, 64) 64, 68 (70, 72) 76, 82 (86, 88) sts

Continue without shaping until work measures 35, 37 (39.5, 40.5) 42.5, 44.5 (46.5, 48.5) 50.5, 52.5 (54.5, 59.5) cms

SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS

Bind off 0, 0 (0, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts at beginning of row, k7, 8 (8, 6) 6, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) [8, 9 (9, 7) 7, 9 (9, 9) 9, 9 (9, 10) sts on right needle].

Put remaining sts on stitch holder.

Turn, bind off 3sts, work to end of row.

Turn, bind off remaining 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) sts

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to stitches on hold, bind off 30, 30 (32, 32) 34, 34 (36, 38) 38, 40 (40, 44) knit remaining 13, 14 (14, 11) 11, 13 (13, 13) 14, 14 (15, 16) sts.

Turn, bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts

Turn, bind off 3sts

Turn, bind off 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) sts

FRONT

Provisional cast on using smaller circular needle: 70, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 90) 92, 96 (98, 108) sts. Join in the round.

Work in 1×1 ribbing for 4cms.

Switch to larger needles.

Set-up Row 1: k[22, 23 (24, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) 33, 35 (36, 41)] p2, k2, pm (Peter Center Cable marker) p2, k2, p2, pm (Peter Center Cable marker) p5, (m1, k1) 4 times, p5, pm, p2, k2, p2, k[22, 23 (24, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) 33, 35 (36, 41)]

74, 76 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 94) 96, 100 (102, 112) sts

Set-up Row 2: k[22, 23 (24, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) 33, 35 (36, 41)] k2, p2, k7, p8, k7, p2, k2,k[22, 23 (24, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) 33, 35 (36, 41)]

Work in pattern, working Peter Center Cable between markers, until piece measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm measuring from cast on.

Work armhole shaping and AT THE SAME TIME start front neck shaping when work measures 25, 27.5 (29.5, 31) 32.5, 34 (36, 37) 39, 40.5 (42, 46) cm

SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLES

Cast off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 4, 5 (4, 5) stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. 66, 68 (70, 72) 76, 78 (82, 84) 88, 90 (94, 102) sts

Decrease 1 st at each end of following 1, 1 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) rows. 64, 66 (68, 70) 72, 76 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 96) sts

Then decrease 1 st each end of every right side row 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) times 60, 62 (64, 68) 68, 72 (74, 76) 80, 86 (90, 92) sts

LEFT FRONT NECK SHAPING

Work 30, 30 (31, 33) 34, 36 (37, 38) 40, 41 (43, 46) sts, put remaining sts on holder, turn.

Decrease 1 st at neck edge of next and following 11, 13 (12, 15) 15, 16 (16, 18) 16, 18 (16, 16) rows.

Then decrease 1 st at each end of each right side row 8, 6 (7, 5) 6, 6 (7, 6) 8, 7 (9, 11) times.

10, 11 (11, 12) 13, 14 (14, 14) 16, 16 (18, 19) sts remain.

Continue without shaping until work measures 35, 37 (39.5, 40.5) 42.5, 44.5 (46.5, 48.5) 50.5, 52.5 (54.5, 59.5) cms

LEFT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING

Starting on a right side row, bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts, turn.

Bind off 0, 0 (0, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) turn.

Bind off remaining, 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) sts.

RIGHT FRONT NECK SHAPING

Rejoin yarn to work on stitch holder.

Decrease 1 st at neck edge of next and following 11, 13 (12, 15) 15, 16 (16, 18) 16, 18 (16, 16) rows.

Then decrease 1 st at each end of each right side row 8, 6 (7, 5) 6, 6 (7, 6) 8, 7 (9, 11) times.

10, 11 (11, 12) 13, 14 (14, 14) 16, 16 (18, 19) sts remain.

Continue without shaping until work measures 35, 37 (39.5, 40.5) 42.5, 44.5 (46.5, 48.5) 50.5, 52.5 (54.5, 59.5) cms

RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING

Starting on a wrong side row, bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts, turn.

Bind off 0, 0 (0, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) turn.

Bind off remaining, 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) sts.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

With smaller needles, cast on 36, 36 (36, 36) 42, 42 (44, 44) 46, 46 (48, 50) sts.

Work for 4cms in 1×1 ribbing.

Change to larger needles and begin working in stockinette stitch (knit every right side row, purl every wrong side row).

SLEEVE SHAPING TO UNDERARM

Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch.

Next row – increase 1 st at each end of following 8^th row 0, 0 (2, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times.

Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 10^th row 5, 3 (4, 5) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 3) times

Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 12^th row 0, 2 (0, 1) 0, 0 (0, 3) 0, 7 (6, 5) times

Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 14^th row 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 4 (2, 3) 6, 0 (1, 0) times.

Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 16^th row 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 1 (3, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times.

Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 18^th row 0, 0 (0, 0) 4, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times.

46, 46 (48, 48) 50, 52 (54, 56) 58, 60 (62, 66) sts

Continue in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 22, 24 (25.5, 27.5) 28, 29.5 (31, 33) 34.5, 36 (36.5, 39) (or desired length) measuring from cast on finishing after completing a wrong side row.

SLEEVE HEAD

Bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 4, 5 (4, 5) sts of beginning of next 2 rows.

Decrease 1 st at each end of next 1, 1 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) rows.

Then decrease on the following 4, 4 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) right side rows.

Then every other right side row 0, 0 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 3, 4 (3, 5) times.

Then decrease on the following 0, 0 (2, 2) 2, 4 (2, 2) 4, 4 (5, 4) right side rows.

Then decrease on the following 5, 5 (5, 5) 3, 4 (4, 4) 3, 5 (3, 6) rows.

Bind off remaining 18, 18 (18, 18) 20, 20 (22, 22) 22, 16 (24, 16) sts.

NECKBAND

Sew shoulder seams.

Pick up and knit 24, 22 (24, 24) 25, 25 (27, 27) 28, 28 (30, 32)  sts down left front, 1 st at center of “v”, pm, knit 24, 22 (24, 24) 25, 25 (27, 27) 28, 28 (30, 32)  sts up right front, 37, 37 (39, 39) 41, 41 (43, 45) 45, 47 (47, 51) sts around back. Join in the round. 86, 82 (88, 88) 92, 92 (98, 100) 102, 104 (108, 116) sts

V-Neck rounds – work in k1p1 ribbing to 2 sts before center stitch marker, work vdd, continue in k1p1 around

Continue repeating v-neck rounds until the neck measures 2.5cms.

Bind off in pattern.

FINISHING

Sew remaining seams, weave in all ends and block as desired.

Abbreviations

K –  knit                                                    

P – purl

PM – place marker                                  

SM – slip marker

K2tog -knit 2 stitches together                 

SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together

M1L – With left needle pick up strand between 2 stitches front to back. Knit through back loop

M1R – With left needle pick up strand between 2 stitches back to front. Knit through front loop

2/1LPC – slip the next 2sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle

2/1RPC – slip, the next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2 from left needle, them p1 from cable needle

2/2LC – slip the next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle

VDD – vertical double decrease – slip the next 2 sts together as if to knit, knit the next st, pass over the 2 slipped sts together

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