This boy cable sweater pattern is a timeless design from my collection of free sweater knitting patterns, and you can find even more options on my sweater pattern page.
If you’ve been searching for a classic kids’ sweater with just the right amount of texture, this pattern solves that problem beautifully. It gives you a structured, polished look without feeling overwhelming to knit, even if cables are new to you. This boy cable sweater pattern is worked flat and seamed with a clean v-neck finish, making it a great option for knitters who want something traditional and wearable for everyday life.
If you’ve ever wanted a sweater that looks impressive but is still practical for real kids, this is it. The cable panel adds just enough detail to keep things interesting, while the overall construction keeps the knitting steady and manageable. It’s the kind of project you can settle into and actually enjoy.
This boy cable sweater pattern is one I keep coming back to because it works for so many ages and occasions. It’s simple, classic, and easy to customize depending on yarn and color choices.
What materials do you need for this boy cable sweater pattern?
For this boy cable sweater pattern, I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch Worsted because it checks all the boxes for kids’ knits. It’s soft enough to wear comfortably, durable enough for everyday use, and holds up really well in the wash. When you’re knitting for kids, that last part matters more than anything.
You’ll also need 4.5mm and 4mm needles, stitch markers, and your usual finishing tools. The worsted weight yarn helps this project move along at a steady pace, which is always a win when you’re working on a sweater.
I’ve knit this pattern more than once, and the yarn choice really makes a difference in how the cables pop. A smooth, sturdy yarn like this keeps your stitches defined and your finished sweater looking sharp.
How easy are the directions for this boy cable sweater pattern?
This boy cable sweater pattern is written to be clear and approachable, even if cables feel a little intimidating at first. The cable repeat is consistent, which helps you settle into a rhythm quickly.
Because the sweater is worked flat and seamed, you’re only focusing on one section at a time. That makes it easier to manage shaping for the armholes, neckline, and sleeves without feeling like everything is happening at once.
If you’ve never knit cables before, this is a great place to start. Once you get a few rows in, it starts to click, and you’ll see the texture build row by row.
Looking for more child sweater knitting patterns?
If you enjoy this boy cable sweater pattern, you’ll probably love these too:
• child dathan sweater
• child grace sweater
• youth judah zipped cardigan
• youth damask cardigan
• youth wheat cardigan
These patterns all have their own unique texture and construction, but they’re designed with the same goal in mind—simple, wearable knits for real life. It’s fun to rotate through different styles while still keeping that handmade look consistent.
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There’s something special about having a handful of go-to sweater patterns you can rely on. This one fits right into that rotation and works well alongside the others.
Youth Peter Sweater Pattern
MATERIALS AND INFO
Size: 3, 4 (5, 6) 7, 8 (9, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14)yrs
Materials: Approximately 3, 3 (3, 4) 4, 4 (5, 5) 5, 6 (6, 7) balls of KnitPick Mighty Stitch Worsted (208y/100g) needle, stitch markers
Needle Size: 7(US) 4.5mm circular needles and dpn, 6(US) 4mm circular and dpn
Gauge (tension): 20sts & 28 rows to make 10cm square, using size 7(US) 4.5mm needles working in stockinette stitch
To fit chest circumference: 55, 57 (59, 61) 64, 67 (70, 73) 76, 79 (82, 90) cm / 21.75, 22.5 (23.25, 24) 25.25, 26.5 (27.5, 28.75) 30, 31 (32.25, 35.5) in.
METHOD
Peter Sweater is bottom-up set pullover with set in sleeves in an easy-care yarn. It is worked flat. Created for our 6th child. He wanted something with cables so I created this v-neck for him with a vest for myself in the back of my mind.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Note: choose size based on bust measurement for best fit
PETER CENTER CABLE STITCH PATTERN:
Row 1 (right side) – p4, 2/1RPC, 2/2LC,
2/1LPC, p4
Row 2 – k4, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, k4
Row 3 – p3, 2/1RPC, p1, k4, p1,
2/1LPC, p3
Row 4 – k3, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k3
Row 5 – p2, 2/1RPC, p2, 2/2LC, p2,
2/1LPC, p2
Row 6 – k2, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k2
Row 7 – p1, 2/1RPC, p3, k4, p3,
2/1LPC, p1
Row 8 – k1, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k1
Row 9 – 2/1RPC, p4, 2/2LC, p4, 2/1LPC
Row 10 – p2, k5, p4, k5, p2
Row 11 – 2/1LPC, p4, k4, p4, 2/1RPC
Row 12 – k1, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k1
Row 13 – p1, 2/1LPC, p3, 2/2LC, p3,
2/1RPC, p1
Row 14 – k2, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k2
Row 15 – p2, 2/1LPC, p2, k4, p2,
2/1RPC, p2
Row 16 – k3, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k3
Row 17 – p3, 2/1LPC, p1, 2/2LC, p1,
2/1RPC, p3
Row 18 – k4, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, k4
Row 19 – p4, 2/1LPC, k4, 2/1RPC, p4
Row 20 – k5, p8, k5
Filled dot: Purl on RS rows; knit on WS rows.
Empty square: Knit on RS rows; purl on WS rows.
Read RS rows in your knitting direction and WS rows in the opposite direction.
1X1 RIB PATTERN
Row 1 (right side row) – (k1, p1) across
Row 2 – knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches.
BACK
BACK
Cast on using smaller circular needle: 70, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 90) 92, 96 (98, 108) sts.
Work in 1×1 ribbing for 4 cm / 1.5 in, ending after a WS row
Switch to larger needles.
Work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm / 9, 9.5 (10, 10.75) 11, 11.5 (12, 12.5) 13, 13.5 (14, 15.25) in from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE BACK ARMHOLES
Cast off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 4, 5 (4, 5) stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
62, 64 (66, 68) 72, 74 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 98) sts
Decrease 1 st at each end of following 1, 1 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) rows.
60, 62 (64, 66) 68, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 92) sts
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of each of the next 2 RS rows.
56, 58 (60, 62) 64, 68 (70, 72) 76, 78 (82, 88) sts remain.
Continue without shaping until the work measures 35, 37 (39.5, 40.5) 42.5, 44.5 (46.5, 48.5) 50.5, 52.5 (54.5, 59.5) cm / 13.75, 14.5 (15.5, 16) 16.75, 17.5 (18.25, 19) 20, 20.75 (21.5, 23.5) in from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS
Bind off 0, 0 (0, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts at beginning of the next 2 rows. Where instructed to bind off 0 stitches, move straight to the next step.
Bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts at beginning of row, k7, 8 (8, 6) 6, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) [8, 9 (9, 7) 7, 9 (9, 9) 9, 9 (9, 10) sts on right needle] work to the end of the row.
Put remaining sts on stitch holder.
Turn, bind off 3sts, work to end of row.
Turn, bind off remaining 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) sts
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to the held stitches. Bind off 30, 30 (32, 32) 34, 34 (36, 38) 38, 40 (40, 44) stitches for the center back neck, then knit to the end. There are 13, 14 (14, 11) 11, 13 (13, 13) 14, 14 (15, 16) stitches in this shoulder section, including the stitch remaining after the bind-off.
Turn, bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn, bind off 3sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn, bind off 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) sts
FRONT
Provisional cast on using smaller circular needle: 70, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 90) 92, 96 (98, 108) sts. Join in the round.
Work in 1×1 ribbing for 4cms.
Switch to larger needles.
Set-up Row 1 (RS): K22, 23 (24, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) 33, 35 (36, 41), p2, k2, p2, PM for the beginning of the Peter Center Cable, p5, [M1, k1] 4 times, p5, PM for the end of the Peter Center Cable, p2, k2, p2, knit to the end.
74, 76 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 94) 96, 100 (102, 112) sts.
Set-up Row 2 (WS): P22, 23 (24, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) 33, 35 (36, 41), k2, p2, k7, p8, k7, p2, k2, purl to the end. Slip markers as encountered.
Begin Row 1 of Peter Center Cable between the markers. Work the stitches outside the markers in stockinette with the established p2, k2, p2 panels beside the cable, reversing knit and purl stitches on WS rows. Work in the established pattern until the piece measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm / 9, 9.5 (10, 10.75) 11, 11.5 (12, 12.5) 13, 13.5 (14, 15.25) in from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Work the armhole shaping and, at the same time, begin the front neck shaping when the piece measures 25, 27.5 (29.5, 31) 32.5, 34 (36, 37) 39, 40.5 (42, 46) cm / 9.75, 10.75 (11.5, 12.25) 12.75, 13.5 (14.25, 14.5) 15.25, 16 (16.5, 18) in from the cast-on edge.
SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLES
Cast off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 4, 5 (4, 5) stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. 66, 68 (70, 72) 76, 78 (82, 84) 88, 90 (94, 102) sts
Decrease 1 st at each end of following 1, 1 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) rows. 64, 66 (68, 70) 72, 76 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 96) sts
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of each of the next 2 RS rows. Before accounting for any simultaneous neck decreases,
60, 62 (64, 66) 68, 72 (74, 76) 80, 82 (86, 92) sts remain.
LEFT FRONT NECK SHAPING
On a RS row, work in the established pattern to the center front. Place the remaining half of the stitches on a holder and turn.
Continue any unfinished armhole shaping at the armhole edge while working the neck shaping below.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on each of the next 12, 14 (14, 16) 16, 16 (16, 18) 16, 18 (16, 16) rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on each of the next 8, 6 (7, 5) 6, 6 (7, 6) 8, 7 (9, 11) RS rows, working intervening WS rows without neck decreases.
After all armhole and neck decreases are complete, 10, 11 (11, 12) 12, 14 (14, 14) 16, 16 (18, 19) sts remain.
Continue without shaping until the work measures 35, 37 (39.5, 40.5) 42.5, 44.5 (46.5, 48.5) 50.5, 52.5 (54.5, 59.5) cm / 13.75, 14.5 (15.5, 16) 16.75, 17.5 (18.25, 19) 20, 20.75 (21.5, 23.5) in from the cast-on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.
LEFT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING
Row 1: Bind off 0, 0 (0, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) stitches, then work to the end.
Row 2: Work without shaping.
Row 3: Bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) stitches, then work to the end.
Row 4: Work without shaping.
Row 5: Bind off the remaining 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) stitches.
RIGHT FRONT NECK SHAPING
With RS facing, rejoin yarn at the center front and work across the held stitches in the established pattern. Turn.
Continue any unfinished armhole shaping at the armhole edge while working the neck shaping below.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on each of the next 12, 14 (14, 16) 16, 16 (16, 18) 16, 18 (16, 16) rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on each of the next 8, 6 (7, 5) 6, 6 (7, 6) 8, 7 (9, 11) RS rows, working intervening WS rows without neck decreases.
After all armhole and neck decreases are complete, 10, 11 (11, 12) 12, 14 (14, 14) 16, 16 (18, 19) sts remain.
Continue without shaping until the work measures 35, 37 (39.5, 40.5) 42.5, 44.5 (46.5, 48.5) 50.5, 52.5 (54.5, 59.5) cm / 13.75, 14.5 (15.5, 16) 16.75, 17.5 (18.25, 19) 20, 20.75 (21.5, 23.5) in from the cast-on edge ending after completing a right side row.
RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING
Row 1: Bind off 0, 0 (0, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) stitches, then work to the end.
Row 2: Work without shaping.
Row 3: Bind off 5, 5 (5, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) stitches, then work to the end.
Row 4: Work without shaping.
Row 5: Bind off the remaining 5, 6 (6, 4) 4, 6 (6, 6) 6, 6 (6, 7) stitches.
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
With smaller needles, cast on 36, 36 (36, 36) 42, 42 (44, 44) 46, 46 (48, 50) sts.
Work for 4cms in 1×1 ribbing.
Change to larger needles and begin working in stockinette stitch (knit every right side row, purl every wrong side row).
SLEEVE SHAPING TO UNDERARM
Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch.
Next row – increase 1 st at each end of following 8th row 0, 0 (2, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times.
Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 10th row 5, 3 (4, 5) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 3) times
Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 12th row 0, 2 (0, 1) 0, 0 (0, 3) 0, 7 (6, 5) times
Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 14th row 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 4 (2, 3) 6, 0 (1, 0) times.
Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 16th row 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 1 (3, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times.
Then increase 1 st at each end of every following 18th row 0, 0 (0, 0) 4, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times.
46, 46 (48, 48) 50, 52 (54, 56) 58, 60 (62, 66) sts
Continue in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 22, 24 (25.5, 27.5) 28, 29.5 (31, 33) 34.5, 36 (36.5, 39) cm / 8.75, 9.5 (10, 10.75) 11, 11.5 (12.25, 13) 13.5, 14.25 (14.25, 15.25) in from the cast-on edge, or desired length, ending after a WS row.
SLEEVE HEAD
Bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 4, 5 (4, 5) sts of beginning of next 2 rows.
In every sleeve-head decrease row, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the row. Work all other rows in stockinette stitch.
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 1, 1 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) rows.
Then decrease on the following 4, 4 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) right side rows.
Then every other right side row 0, 0 (1, 1) 2, 1 (2, 2) 3, 4 (3, 5) times.
Then decrease on the following 0, 0 (2, 2) 2, 4 (2, 2) 4, 4 (5, 4) right side rows.
Then decrease on the following 5, 5 (5, 5) 3, 4 (4, 4) 3, 5 (3, 6) rows.
Bind off remaining 18, 18 (18, 18) 20, 20 (22, 22) 22, 16 (24, 16) sts.
NECKBAND
With smaller needles, pick up and knit 24, 22 (24, 24) 25, 25 (27, 27) 28, 28 (30, 32) stitches down the left front, 1 stitch at the center of the V, 24, 22 (24, 24) 25, 25 (27, 27) 28, 28 (30, 32) stitches up the right front, and 37, 37 (39, 39) 41, 41 (43, 45) 45, 47 (47, 51) stitches around the back neck.
Mark the center-V stitch with a removable stitch marker attached to the stitch itself. Place a separate beginning-of-round marker and join.
86, 82 (88, 88) 92, 92 (98, 100) 102, 104 (108, 116) sts.
V-neck round: Work in 1×1 ribbing to 1 stitch before the marked center stitch. Work VDD over the next 3 stitches, with the marked stitch in the center. Move the removable marker to the resulting stitch. Continue in ribbing to the end.
Arrange the ribbing so the marked center stitch forms a knit column.
Repeat the V-neck round until the neckband measures 2.5 cm / 1 in from the pickup edge.
Bind off in pattern.
FINISHING
Sew remaining seams, weave in all ends and block as desired.
ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
P – purl
PM – place marker
SM – slip marker
K2tog -knit 2 stitches together
SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together
M1L – With left needle pick up strand between 2 stitches front to back. Knit through back loop
M1R – With left needle pick up strand between 2 stitches back to front. Knit through front loop
2/1LPC – slip the next 2sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle
2/1RPC – slip, the next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2 from left needle, them p1 from cable needle
2/2LC – slip the next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle
VDD – vertical double decrease – slip the next 2 sts together as if to knit, knit the next st, pass over the 2 slipped sts together
If you knit this boy cable sweater pattern, I would love to hear how it turned out for you. Let me know what yarn or colors you chose, or who you made it for—I always enjoy seeing your projects come to life.
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