Free Easy Child Cardigan Pattern: The Youth Damask Cardigan

This Free easy child cardigan pattern is the kind of project you reach for when you want a free sweater knitting pattern that’s super fun to knit.

If you’ve ever struggled to find a child cardigan that fits well, looks polished, and doesn’t feel overly complicated, this one checks all the boxes. The sizing is clearly laid out, the construction is straightforward, and the texture keeps things interesting without slowing you down. I designed this Free easy child cardigan pattern to solve that in-between problem where patterns are either too basic or way too fussy—and honestly, it’s one you’ll come back to again and again.

Free Easy Child Cardigan: The Youth Damask Cardigan Knitting Pattern

If you’ve been hunting for a go-to cardigan that works for everyday wear and still feels special, this is it. Clean structure, simple shaping, and a timeless texture all come together in a way that just works.

What materials do you need for this Free easy child cardigan pattern?

For this Free easy child cardigan pattern, I kept the materials simple and easy to find so you can get started without overthinking it. The yarn choice is sturdy, soft, and holds the textured stitches beautifully, which really makes the design stand out.

Materials:

Cascade 220 Superwash
5, 6 (6, 6) 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (9, 9) 1/2in buttons
Yarn needle
Stitch markers

Needles:

Gauge:

20 sts & 24 rows = 10cm square using size 7 (US) needles

I love using Cascade 220 Superwash here because it gives you that clean stitch definition without being stiff, which is exactly what this textured fabric needs.

It’s one of those setups where everything just works together without a lot of fuss—and that’s always a win.

How is this Free easy child cardigan pattern constructed?

This Free easy child cardigan pattern is worked flat from the bottom up in a drop sleeve style, which makes it approachable even if you don’t knit garments all the time. There’s about 10cm of ease built in, so the fit is comfortable and practical for everyday wear.

If you need help along the way make sure to head over to the Knitting Tutorials page.

The texture pattern is simple to memorize, so once you get going, it becomes a really relaxing knit. The structure keeps things interesting without feeling overwhelming, and the shaping is spaced out in a way that feels manageable.

Take your time with the setup rows, and after that, it really flows. This is one of those patterns where you can actually enjoy the process instead of constantly double-checking instructions.

Looking for more patterns like this Free easy child cardigan pattern?

If you love this style, here are a few more patterns you might want to try next:

These all have a similar feel—simple structure, wearable design, and just enough texture to keep things interesting.

It’s always nice to have a few go-to patterns that you already know you enjoy knitting.

Youth Damask Cardigan Pattern

Size: 3, 4 (5, 6) 7, 8 (9, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14)
Materials: Approximately 2, 3 (3, 3) 3, 4 (4, 4) 4, 5 (5, 5) skeins of Cascade
220 Superwash (220y/100g), 5, 6 (6, 6) 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (9, 9) 1/2in buttons, yarn
needle, stitch markers
Needle Size: 6(US) 4mm & 7(US) 4.5mm straight
Gauge (tension): 20sts & 24 rows to make 10cm square, using size 7(US)
4.5mm needles
Chest Measurement: 55, 57, (59, 61) 63, 66 (69, 72) 75, 78 (81, 84) cm
21.5, 22.5, 23.25, 24, 24.75, 26, 27, 28.25, 29.5, 30.75, 32, 33 ins

METHOD
This pattern is for a drop sleeve style that is worked flat from the bottom
up with 10cm of ease. If you are a left-handed knitter there are notations
to help you throughout.

DAMASK STITCH PATTERN
Row 1 – [k3, p1, k1, p1] across
Row 2 – [k3, p3] around
Row 3 – repeat round 1
Row 4 – repeat round 2
Row 5 – repeat round 1
Row 6 – [p3, k1, p1, k1] around
Row 7 – [p3, k3] around
Row 8 – repeat round 6
Row 9 – repeat round 7
Row 10 – repeat round 6

BACK
Cast on 68, 68 (74, 74) 74, 80 (80, 86) 86, 92 (92, 96) sts using the smaller needles.
Work 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25,
1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size needles.
Work as follows: k1 (salvage stitch) work in damask stitch pattern across to last
stitch, k1 (salvage stitch) until your work measures 24, 24 (25.5, 27) 28.5, 30 (31,
32) 33.5, 35 (36, 37.5) cm or 9.5, 9.5 (10, 10.5) 11, 11.75 (12.25, 12.5) 13, 13.75
(14, 14.75) ins measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the
row to mark armhole.
Continue working in pattern until work measures 36, 37 (39, 41) 43, 45 (47, 49) 51,
53, (55, 57) cms or 14, 14.5 (15.25, 16) 17, 17.75 (18.5, 19.25) 20, 20.75 (21.5,
22.5) ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.

SHOULDERS
Bind off 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next row, work
until 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 10 (10, 12) 11, 12 (11, 12) sts are on the right needle (if you
knit left-handed this is your left needle) put remaining sts on a stitch holder or
spare yarn.
Turn and bind off 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off remaining 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 7 (7, 9) 8, 9 (8, 9) sts
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the sts on the stitch holder/spare yarn, bind
off 30, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 34) 36, 36 (38, 38) sts, work remaining 14, 15 (16, 16)
16, 17 (17, 19) 18, 20 (19, 21) sts.
Bind off 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3)sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off remaining 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 7 (7, 9) 8, 9 (8, 9) sts

LEFT FRONT (if you knit left-handed this is your right front)
Cast on 32, 32, (35, 35) 35, 38 (38, 41) 41, 44 (44, 47) sts using smaller needle
Work 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25,
1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.

Work as follows: k1 (salvage stitch) work in damask stitch pattern across to last
stitch (some sizes will require an extra first 3 sts of damask stitch pattern), k1
(salvage stitch) until your work measures 24, 24 (25.5, 27) 28.5, 30 (31, 32) 33.5,
35 (36, 37.5) cm or 9.5, 9.5 (10, 10.5) 11, 11.75 (12.25, 12.5) 13, 13.75 (14, 14.75)

ins measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on the left end (if you knit left-
handed place this on the right end) of the row to mark armhole.

Continue working in pattern until work measures 31, 31.5 (33.5, 35) 37, 39 (41,
42.5) 44.5, 46 (48, 50) cms or 12,12.25 (13, 13.75) 14.5, 15.25 (16, 16.75) 17.5, 18
(19, 19.5) ins from cast on edge ending after completing a right-side row.

NECK
Next row – Bind off 11, 10 (11, 11) 11, 9 (9, 10) 11, 11 (11, 11) sts, work to end of
row [21, 22 (24, 24) 24, 29 (29, 31) 30, 33 (33, 36) sts]
Decrease 1 sts at the neck edge of the next 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 5) 5, 5 (5, 4) rows.
[18, 19 (21, 21) 21, 26 (26, 26) 25, 28 (29, 32) sts]
Decrease 1 sts at neck edge every right-side row 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 5 (5, 3) 3, 3 (4, 5)
times [16, 17 (19, 19) 19, 21 (21, 23) 22, 25 (24, 27) sts]
Continue in pattern until work measures 36, 37 (39, 41) 43, 45 (47, 49) 51, 53 (55,
57) cms or 14, 14.5 (15.25, 16) 17, 17.75 (18.5, 19.25) 20, 20.75 (21.5, 22.5) ins
from cast on edge, ending after completing a wrong side row

SHOULDERS
Bind off 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) sts, work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
Bind off 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 0) sts, work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
Bind off remaining 6, 7 (7, 7) 7, 7 (7, 9) 8, 9 (8, 9) sts

RIGHT FRONT (if you knit left-handed this is your left front)
Cast on 32, 32, (35, 35) 35, 38 (38, 41) 41, 44 (44, 47) sts using smaller needle
Work 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25,
1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.

ins measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on the left end (if you knit left-
handed place this on the right end) of the row to mark armhole.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
Cast on now 38, 38 (38, 38) 38, 38 (38, 44) 44, 44 (44, 44) sts on smaller needles
Work 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25,
1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles
Work as follows: k1 (salvage stitch) work in damask stitch pattern across to last
stitch, k1 (salvage stitch). Carry this salvage stitch all the way up the sleeve.
Work 3 more rows in pattern.
Next row:
inc 1 sts on each side every right side row 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 4 (4, 0) 0, 2 (5, 5) times,
Then inc 1 sts on each side every 4th row 9, 10 (11, 12) 13, 11 (12, 15) 16, 15 (14,
15) times,
[56, 58 (60, 62) 64, 68 (70, 74) 76, 78 (82, 84) sts]
Continue working in damask stitch pattern until work measures 24, 26.5 (28, 29)
29, 29.5 (31.5, 33) 34.5, 38 (39, 40.5) cms or 9.5, 10.5 (11, 11.5) 11.5, 11.75 (12.5,
13) 13.5, 15 (15.5, 16)ins from cast on edge. Bind of all stitches leaving a long
enough tail to sew the sleeve on.

NECK
Join both shoulder seams, using yarn on a tapestry/yarn needle.
With right side facing and smaller needles pick up and knit 11, 11 (12, 12) 12, 10
(10, 11) 12, 12 (12, 12) sts along right from bind off edge,
11, 11 (11, 12) 12, 12 (12, 14) 14, 14 (14, 14) sts up right front of neck,
34, 34 (36, 36) 36, 38 (38, 40) 42, 42 (44, 44) sts from back neck,
11, 11 (11, 12) 12, 12 (12, 14) 14, 14 (14, 14) sts up left front and side of neck,
11, 11 (12, 12) 12, 10 (10, 11) 12, 12 (12, 12) sts along left from bind off edge.
[78, 78 (82, 84) 84, 82 (82, 90) 94, 94 (96, 96) sts]

Work 2, 2 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25)
1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Bind off all sts in pattern.

FRONT RIB EDGES

LEFT FRONT EDGE (if you knit left-handed still do this on the left)
Pick up and knit 61, 64 (69, 74) 75, 81 (87, 86) 93, 100 (105, 113) sts along the edge
with the smaller sized circular needles.
Work 6 rows of rib (k1, p1).
Bind off in established rib pattern.

RIGHT FRONT EDGE (if you knit left-handed still do this on the left)
Pick up and knit 61, 64 (69, 74) 75, 81 (87, 86) 93, 100 (105, 113) sts along the edge
with the smaller sized circular needles.
Work 2 rows in k1p1 ribbing
Buttonhole row: Work 3 sts in established rib pattern, k2tog, yo (work 11, 9, (10,
11) 9, 10 (11, 9) 10, 11 (10, 11) stitches in established rib, k2tog, yo) 4, 5 (5, 5) 6,
6 (6, 7) 7, 7 (8, 8) times, work in ribbed pattern to end.
5, 6 (6, 6) 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (9, 9) buttonholes made.
Work 3 rows in k1p1 ribbing
Bind off in established rib pattern.

FINISHING
Sew the sleeves on, side seams and sleeve seams. I prefer to use the mattress
stitch because it almost appears seamless. Weave in all ends. Sew the buttons on
along the left front edge across from the buttonholes

ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
P – purl
PM – place marker
SM – slip marker
K2tog -knit 2 stitches together
YO – yarn over
SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together
M1R – Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from
back to front, then knit this strand
M1L – Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from
front to back, then knit this strand through the back loop

If you end up making this, I’d love to hear how it goes for you. Leave a comment and let me know what size you made or who you’re knitting it for!

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One Reply to “Free Easy Child Cardigan Pattern: The Youth Damask Cardigan”

Judy R says:

January 21, 2025 at 2:39 pm

I love this sweater. It is so elegant looking. In looking through the directions, I see instructions for two left fronts and no right front. Is there a correction listed somewhere?

Comments are closed.