This free lace knit sweater pattern is a lightweight, easy-to-wear top that also fits right into your collection of free sweater knitting patterns.
If you’ve ever wanted a simple lace tee that looks polished but doesn’t feel complicated to knit, this one solves that problem beautifully. The Sarah Tee is worked bottom up with a relaxed fit and about 4 inches of ease, so you get that slightly loose, flattering shape without having to overthink sizing. With instructions from XS through 4X and a seamless-in-the-round start, this is one of those patterns you can actually finish and want to wear right away.

If you’ve been searching for a free lace knit sweater pattern that feels approachable but still gives you that airy lace look, this is it. The construction keeps things simple, and the dolman sleeves mean less shaping and more knitting.
This is one of those projects that keeps your hands busy without slowing you down. It’s a great mix of relaxing and interesting.
What materials do you need for this free lace knit sweater pattern?
For this free pattern, I kept the materials simple and easy to find, which makes it a great project to start right away. I used Premier Yarns Bamboo Fair because it gives the fabric a soft, breathable feel that works really well for a lightweight tee.
- Premier Yarns Bamboo Fair
- Size 4 (3.5mm) circular needles from KnitPicks
- Size 6 (4mm) circular needles from KnitPicks
- Yarn needle for sewing shoulder seams
- Blocking mats
I love using a bamboo blend for this kind of top because it helps the lace stitches open up nicely after blocking. It also gives the finished sweater a soft drape that works perfectly with the relaxed fit.

Once everything is blocked out, the stitch definition really shines, and you can see all that lace detail come together.
How is this free lace knit sweater pattern constructed?
This free lace knit sweater pattern is worked from the bottom up, starting in the round, which keeps things nice and repetitive in the beginning. Once you reach the sleeve split, the front and back are worked flat all in one piece, so you don’t have to deal with multiple separate panels.
The dolman sleeve construction keeps shaping simple, which makes this a great option if you don’t want to fuss with complicated sleeve math. When it’s time to finish, you’ll just sew the shoulder seams, and that’s it.

One tip I always follow here is to keep track of your rows carefully once you split for the sleeves. It helps everything line up evenly at the shoulders and gives you a clean finish.
Looking for more patterns like Sarah Tee?
If you enjoyed this free lace knit sweater pattern, here are a few more you might want to try next:
• Deborah Tee
• Child Sarah Tee
• Puff Sleeve Tee
• Chain Tee
These all have a similar feel but give you different stitch patterns and construction styles to keep things interesting.

I always like having a few go-to tee patterns on hand, especially for warmer weather knitting or easy layering pieces.
Sarah Tee Pattern
MATERIALS AND INFO
Size: XS, S (M, L) XL, 2X (3X, 4X)
Materials: Approximately 1000, 1075 (1200, 1345) 1455, 1600 (1755, 1870) yds of Premier Yarns Bamboo Fair 273yds/100g yarn needle, stitch markers Needle Size: 6(US) 4mm circular needles and dpn, 4(US) 3.5mm circular and dpn Gauge (tension): 22sts & 32 rows to make 10cm square, using size 6(US) 4mm needles working in stockinette stitch
Chest Measurement of person: 75, 85 (95, 105) 115, 125 (135, 145) cm or 30, 34 (38, 42) 46, 50 (54, 58) ins
METHOD
Sara Tee is bottom-up drop sleeve pullover in an easy-care yarn. It is worked in the round until the sleeves. Created for our 4th child. She wanted something fun and breezy for summer. Once I saw it on her I HAD to make one for me.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Note: choose size based on chest measurement for best fit. Measurements above are measurement of the person not sweater measurements.
1X1 RIB PATTERN
Row 1 (right side row) – (k1, p1) across
Row 2 – knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches.
Sarah Stitch Pattern
In the Round Instructions
Round 1 – [k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2] around Round 2 – knit around
Round 3 – [k1,yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1] around Round 4 – knit around
Round 5 – [k4, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k4] around
Round 6 – knit around
Round 7 – [k3, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k3] around
Round 8 – knit around
Row Instructions
Row 1 – [k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2] across Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – [k1,yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1] across Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – [k4, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k4] across
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – [k3, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k3] across
Row 8 – purl across
BODY
Cast on using smaller circular needle: 256, 272 (288, 320) 352, 384 (416, 448) sts. Join in the round.
Work in 1×1 ribbing for 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5)cms or 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) ins.
Switch to larger needles.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 35, 35 (35, 35) 35, 34.5 (34.5, 34) cms or 14, 14 (14, 14) 14, 13.75 (13.75, 13.5) ins measuring from cast on.
SEPARATE FOR ARMHOLE
Work 128, 136 (144, 160) 176, 192 (208, 224) sts place remaining 128, 136 (144, 160) 176, 192 (208, 224sts on holder.
You will now work flat.
Cast on 9, 9 (9, 9) 9, 9 (9, 9) 9, 9 (9, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows [146, 154 (162, 178) 194, 210 (226, 242) sts]
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 53.5, 54 (55, 55) 56.5, 56.5 (57.5, 58) cms or 21.5, 21.75 (22, 22.5) 22.5, 23 (23.5, 23.5) ins from bottom cast on (not sleeve cast on).
SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS
Bind off 19, 21 (23, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) sts at beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 10, 12 (14, 16) 18, 19 (21, 23) sts at beginning of row, work in pattern for 14, 16 (17, 19) 21, 23 (24, 26) [15, 17 (18, 20) 22, 24 (25, 27) sts on right needle]. Put remaining sts on stitch holder.
Turn, bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) sts, work to end of row.
Turn, bind off remaining 11, 13 (14, 16) 18, 20 (21, 23) sts
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to stitches on hold, bind off 50, 54 (58, 60) 62, 68 (72, 74) knit remaining 25, 29 (32, 36) 40, 43 (46, 50) sts.
Turn, bind off 10, 12 (14, 16) 18, 19 (21, 23) sts work to end of row Turn, bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) sts
Turn, bind off 11, 13 (14, 16) 18, 20 (21, 23) sts
SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLES
With larger needle pick up the 128, 136 (144, 160) 176, 192 (208, 224sts on holder. You will work flat.
Cast on 9, 9 (9, 9) 9, 9 (9, 9) 9, 9 (9, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows [146, 154 (162, 178) 194, 210 (226, 242) sts]
Continue working in stitch chart pattern until you have worked 47, 47.5 (47.5, 48) 48.5, 49 (49, 49.5) 49.5, 50 cms or 18.75, 19 (19, 19.5) 19.5, 19.5 (20, 20) 20, 20 ins from bottom cast on (not sleeve cast on)
LEFT FRONT NECK SHAPING
Work 52, 58 (64, 71) 77, 82 (88, 94) sts, put remaining sts on holder, turn. Decrease 1 st at neck edge of next 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 9 (9, 9) rows.
Then decrease 1 st at neck edge of every other row 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 6 (7, 7) times. 40, 46 (51, 57) 63, 67 (72, 78) sts remain.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 53.5, 54 (55, 55) 56.5, 56.5 (57.5, 58) cms or 21.5, 21.75 (22, 22.5) 22.5, 23 (23.5, 23.5) ins from bottom cast on (not sleeve cast on)
LEFT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING
Starting on a right-side row, bind off 19, 21 (23, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) sts, work across remains sts, turn.
Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
Bind off 10, 12 (14, 16) 18, 19 (21, 23) sts, work across remains sts, turn. Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
Bind off remaining 11, 13 (14, 16) 18, 20 (21, 23) sts.
RIGHT FRONT NECK SHAPING
Rejoin yarn to work on stitch holder and bind off 34, 38 (40, 40) 42, 46 (48, 50) sts Work to the end of the row.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge of next 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 9 (9, 9) rows.
Then decrease 1 st at neck edge of every other row 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 6 (7, 7) times. 40, 46 (51, 57) 63, 67 (72, 78) sts remain.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 53.5, 54 (55, 55) 56.5, 56.5 (57.5, 58) cms or 21.5, 21.75 (22, 22.5) 22.5, 23 (23.5, 23.5) ins
RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING
Starting on a wrong-side row bind off 19, 21 (23, 25) 27, 28 (30, 32) sts, work across remains sts, turn.
Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
Bind off 10, 12 (14, 16) 18, 19 (21, 23) sts, work across remains sts, turn. Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
Bind off remaining 11, 13 (14, 16) 18, 20 (21, 23) sts.
Sew shoulder seams.
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
With smaller needles, pick up and knit 78, 88 (94, 104) 116, 128 (138, 146) sts. Work for 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5cms or 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) ins in k1p1 ribbing. Bind off in pattern.
Sew underarm seam.
NECKBAND
Pick up and knit 20, 22 (24, 24) 25, 28 (28, 30) sts down left front, 34, 38 (40, 40) 42, 46 (48, 50) sts across neck,
20, 22 (24, 24) 25, 28 (28, 30) sts up right front,
58, 62 (66, 68) 70, 76 (80, 82) sts around back.
Join in the round. 132, 144 (154, 156) 162, 178 (184, 192) sts
Work for 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) cms or 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) ins in k1p1 ribbing. Bind off in pattern.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends and block as desired.
ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
P – purl
PM – place marker
SM – slip marker
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together

If you knit Sarah Tee, I’d love to hear how it turned out for you. Let me know in the comments what yarn you used or what size you made—I always enjoy seeing how these turn out for different knitters.
This post may contain affiliate links. This means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through one of these links.
Thank you very much for the Sarah Tee, I’ve been waiting for this.
Very much appreciated
You are so welcome and you were definitely not the only one waiting for this one