Looking for a no show sock knitting pattern? Find my favorites on the sock pattern page—Chain Ankle Socks is at the bottom!
Let’s talk about the humble no show sock knitting pattern—the little hidden gem in the world of handmade socks. These low-profile socks might not steal the spotlight, but they sure do carry their weight when it comes to comfort and style. Whether you’re pairing them with sneakers or slipping into flats, a great no show sock knitting pattern is a summertime must-have.
Over the years, I’ve knit my fair share of sock patterns (top-down, toe-up, shortie, knee-high—you name it), but there’s just something extra satisfying about a clean little sock that disappears into your shoe. That’s why I wanted to round up some of my go-to no show sock knitting pattern favorites and also share my newest pattern with you: the Chain Ankle Socks (scroll to the bottom for that one).
If you’re just here for the full sock lineup, you’ll find the whole collection of free sock patterns right here on my sock pattern page. But let me gush for a minute about what makes no show sock knitting patterns so great—especially this latest one.
Why I Love a Good No Show Sock Knitting Pattern
There’s something oddly thrilling about casting on a sock that you know will fly off the needles. No show sock knitting patterns are usually quick, light, and super portable. You can work them up in just a few cozy evenings, and they’re great stash-busters for fingering weight yarn.
That said, I used a real treat of a yarn for my newest pattern: Hobbii Unicorn (affiliate link). This yarn is soft, strong, and vibrant—it glides across 2.25mm double-pointed needles like a dream. The no show sock knitting pattern really pops with crisp stitch definition in this yarn.
The Chain Ankle Socks: A Unique Take on the No Show Sock Knitting Pattern
Let me introduce you to the Chain Ankle Socks—my newest (and possibly favorite ever) no show sock knitting pattern. These socks are knit top-down, starting with a tabbed hemmed cuff that uses clever short rows to form a little back tab that helps the socks stay up in your shoe.
The hem is folded and sewn down for that clean, finished look I love so much. Then comes the heel flap, which gives a perfect fit and some added durability.
But the real star? The chain stitch pattern that runs down the front of the sock.
It’s a faux cable pattern that starts with 2 stitches, turns into 3 stitches with a yarn over, and then gracefully drops back to 2 with a modified central double decrease (MCDD). This stitch is eye-catching and elegant—but don’t worry, I’ve got a left-handed video tutorial on YouTube to help you out if you need a visual.
Tips for Success with a No Show Sock Knitting Pattern
Here are a few things I’ve learned the hard way over my many pairs of no show sock knitting pattern attempts:
- Make sure you use a grippy yarn. Slippery yarns won’t stay put in your shoe. That’s why I love Hobbii Unicorn (affiliate link)—the blend keeps it soft but structured.
- Don’t skip the heel tab. That little back tab adds comfort and helps prevent the dreaded sock slide.
- Reinforce your heel flap. Even on low socks, you want your heel to last and be comfortable. Use slip stitch reinforcement in the pattern for that added layer of cushiness.
- Watch your gauge. No one wants a sock that slouches down into their shoe. A snug gauge in your no show sock knitting pattern will give you that perfect fit.
My Favorite Yarn for No Show Sock Knitting Patterns
There are a lot of yarns that’ll do the trick, but Hobbii Unicorn (affiliate link) is my current favorite. It holds up well to wear, gives those chain stitches great texture, and comes in colorways that’ll make you smile.
Whether you’re going for stripes, speckles, or solids, a quality fingering weight yarn makes your no show sock knitting pattern shine.
The Full Sock Pattern Lineup
If this post has you inspired to knit all the ankle socks, I’ve got you covered. My sock pattern page is full of no show sock knitting patterns and other cozy footies to try out. From beginner-friendly to stitch-sampler socks, there’s something there for every knitter.
But before you run off…
Don’t Miss the Chain Ankle Socks!
The Chain Ankle Socks are waiting for you at the bottom of this post. If you’ve been craving a new no show sock knitting pattern that’s sleek, modern, and a little bit fun, this one’s for you. You’ll love working those tiny cables and that snug, tabbed cuff. Trust me, they’ll be the first socks you grab on laundry day.
Grab your 2.25mm DPNs, your skein of Hobbii Unicorn (affiliate link), and let’s cast on!
Chain Ankle Sock Pattern
Materials:
Yarn: 1 skein of Hobbii Unicorn Solids (Affiliate Link) 437yd/100g
Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop just use stitch markers to label the needle 1, 2 and 3)
Notions: stitch markers, needle
Gauge: 32sts x 44rows per 4x4ins or 10x10cms
sizing:
baby, (toddler, child), adult M, adult L
Finished measurements (unstretched):
Foot Length (adjustable): 4, (6, 8)10, 11.25 ins or 10 (15, 20) 25.5, 28.5 cms
The model size is a medium adult for a shoe size of ladies US size 10.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page
Chain Stitch Pattern
Set-up Row – [p1, k2, p1] across
Round 1 – [p1, k1, yo, k1, p1] across
Round 2 – [p1, k3, p1] across
Round 3 – [p1, k3, p1] across
Round 4 – [p1, mcdd (sl1, k1, psso, pick up the back leg of the stitch you just knit, k2tog knitting the next stitch and the stitch you just picked up together), p1] across
Repeat rows 1-4
Cuff
Cast on 40 (48, 56) 64, 72 sts, join for working in the round.
Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:
1st needle 20 (24, 28) 32, 36 sts
2nd and 3rd needle 10 (12, 14) 16, 18 sts each needle
Work in Stockinette for 4 (5, 5) 5, 6rounds.
Short rows:
Row 1 – Work across 1st needle to 1 st remaining on needle, W&T.
Row 2 – Work across to 1 st remaining on the needle, W&T.
Row 3 – Work across to 1 st before last wrap, W&T.
Row 4 – Work across to 1 st before last wrap, W&T.
Repeat rounds 3 & 4: 1 (1, 2) 2, 3 times.
Next round: Work across cuff in stockinette, picking up wraps and working them together with the sts they wrap as you complete this round.
Work in stockinette for 4 (5, 5) 5, 6rounds.
Next Round: Fold the cast on edge into the sock, lining up the cast on edge with the current working sts. *Pick up the cast on stitch directly above the current stitch, k2tog, rep from * to the end of the rnd, the stitch count will not change.
Heel Flap
Next round: You will work the heel flap on the next 20 (24, 28) 32, 36 sts sts. Place the remaining 20 (24, 28) 32, 36 sts sts on hold.
Row 1 (RS): (sl1, k1) to end, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end, turn work.
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 9 (11, 13), 15, 17 times.
This is a total of 18 (22, 26) 30, 34 rows.
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k12 (12, 15), 18, 20 ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, p7 (7, 5) 7, 7, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked:
14 (16, 16), 20, 22 sts remain.
Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.
Gusset
Pick up and knit 10 (12, 14), 16, 18 sts along the edge of heel flap, PM,
Work across front 20 (24, 28) 32, 36 in pattern, PM,
Pick up and knit 10 (12, 14), 16, 18 sts along heel flap,
k7 (8, 8) 10, 11 sts, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the foot).
[54 (64, 72) 84, 94sts]
Round 1: knit to marker, work front 20 (24, 28) 32, 36 in pattern, knit to bor marker
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work in pattern to next marker, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]
Work rounds 1-2 a total of k7 (8, 8) 10, 11 times.
[40 (48, 56) 64, 72 sts]
Foot
Continue working in the round in established pattern until the piece measures 3 (5, 6.5) 8, 9ins or 7.5 (12.5, 16.5) 20.5, 23 cms from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1.75) 2, 2.25 ins or 2.5 (2.5, 4.5) 5, 5.5 cms short of desired foot length. Finish after completing a round 4 of the chain stitch pattern.
Toe
You will now be working in stockinette only.
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]
Round 2: knit
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 6 (8, 9) 10, 12 times. until 16 (16, 20) 24, 24 sts remain.
For a left-handed tutorial of these decreases visit my youtube here
Cut yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the toe closed, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends
Kitchener stitch:
Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and bottom NOT side to side)
Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.
Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back) through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the needle.
Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off the needle.
Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.
Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:
Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,
Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,
Repeat!
At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.
Work steps 1 and 3 once more.
For a left-handed video tutorial of this visit my youtube here
Abbreviations
k – knit
P – purl
sm – slip maker
pm – place marker
st – stich
sts – stitches
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
w&t – wrap the yarn around the next stitch, turn work
mcdd – sl1, k1, psso, pick up the back leg of the stitch you just knit, k2tog knitting the next stitch and the stitch you just picked up together
Chain Ankle Sock PDF
Affiliate Disclaimer:
Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them—at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my work and helping me keep over 200 patterns free on my blog!