All my knitting tutorials are listed below—plus 200+ more free knitting patterns here.
If you’re looking for clear and practical knitting tutorials, you’ll find the full list below! I’ve put together step-by-step guides for everything from cables and lace to different cast ons, bind offs, decreases, increases, seaming, and so much more. Every tutorial includes photos in both right- and left-handed instructions so you can follow along with ease. Many of my tutorials feature some of my favorite yarns—like KnitPicks Heatherly (affiliate link) for its soft stitch definition, Berroco Vintage (affiliate link) for durability and classic texture, and Premier Cotton Fair (affiliate link) for a lightweight and smooth finish that’s great for learning new techniques.
Cast-on
Learn the Italian Cast-On with This Step-by-Step Tutorial
Knitting Tutorial: How to Do a Picot Cast On (with Written Instructions + Video!)
Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit a Picot Hem on a Cast On Edge
Knitting Tutorial: How to Do the Knitted Cast On
Free Knitting Tutorial for Tillybuddy’s Very Stretchy Cast On
Unveiling Judy’s Magic Cast On: My Journey into Toe-Up Socks
Decreases
How to Knit the MCDD Stitch: Step-by-Step Tutorial with Tips
Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit the MCDD Stitch Purlwise (with Video)
Increases
Knitting Tutorial: How to Do M1RP and M1LP
Other Skills and Tips
How to Use Stitch Markers: My Personal Guide
Knitting Tutorial: How to Do Magic Loop for Small-Circumference Knitting
Knitting Tutorial: How to Sew a Strap Onto a Knitted Purse
Knitting Tutorial: How to Steam Block Your Knits
How to Knit a Gauge Swatch (Step-by-Step Tutorial for Perfect Fit)
Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit the K1B Stitch (Knit 1 Below Stitch)
How to Knit Wrap and Turn Short Rows Flat: Free Step-by-Step Knitting Tutorial
Why is My Knitting Curling and How to Fix It
Beginner Knitter Series
How to Cast On: A Beginner’s Guide to Knitting
How to Knit: Mastering the Knit Stitch with Ease
How to Purl: A Fun and Easy Knitting Tutorial
Beginner Series Part 4: How to Join Yarn Invisibly Using 3 Simple Methods
Beginner Knitting Series Part 5: How to Do the KFB Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 6: How to Do M1R and M1L
Beginner Knitting Series Part 7: How to Do Yo Knit Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 8: How to Do K2TOG Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 9: How to Do the SSK Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 10: How to Do the P2TOG Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 11: How to Do the SSP Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 12: How to Do the C2F Stitch
Beginner Knitter Series Part 13: How to Do the C2B Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 14: How to Do the PSSO Stitch
Beginner Knitting Series Part 15: How to Bind Off Knitwise
Beginner Knitting Series Part 16: How to Bind Off Knitting Purlwise
Beginner Knitting Series Part 17: How to Sew Seams in Knitting
Thank you for exploring our collection of knitting tutorials! Whether you’re here for your first scarf or to expand your knitting skills, we hope these guides have inspired you to keep your needles moving. Remember, every stitch is a step towards mastery. Keep practicing and exploring new patterns through our knitting tutorials. Happy knitting, and may your creativity flourish with each new project you undertake from our tutorials!
What’s next? Let us know in the comments below what additional knitting tutorials you would love to see added to our collection. Your feedback shapes our future content, so share your ideas for more knitting tutorials!
Thank you for offering your patterns and tutorials. Thry are so helpful!!!
Hi Amanda. I’ve been desperately trying to contact you so now trying here. I have your Bunny Bonnet pattern and about a week to get it done. I’ve tried so many times to make the 3-6 month size and can’t get it right. When using K2P2 , starting at 50 stitches is not evenly divisible by four. How does this work? Also, I’m not totally clear on your first slip salvage edge, but assuming I just use it as my first knit 2 stitch. Please help urgent.
It’s okay that it’s not an even for (actually preferred!) You will k2 p2 knowing the last 2 sts will be k2 just like the opposite side so the bonnet is symmetrical. The salvage edge is a slip st to make a neat and tidy edging. Yes, you use it as your first k on the k2p2 ribbing. I hope this answers all of your questions.
Hello and firstly, thank you for the free patterns, so generous of you.
I am making the cute shortie socks for my granddaughters.
Just to be clear: after knitting the ribbed cuff, am I to knit the short rows in plain knitting or continue with ribbing throughout?
If you are talking about the September Ankle socks then there will be short rows worked in 1×1 ribbing to make the tab on the back of the ankle. But if it is the heel that is being worked in short rows (like Sophia socks or Beka Socks which use a short row heel) than those short rows are worked in stockinette.
Hi! You have so many beautiful patterns that I can’t wait to make! I’ve started on the Youth Damask Cardigan, but I’m stuck on the left front/right front. The instructions for the both sections seem to be the same- is that maybe a mistake or am I doing something wrong? Thanks so much!!!
They are perfect mirrors of each other. If you were to look at the instructions right before the neck one will end after completing a right side row while the other will say end after completing a wrong side row. That is really the only difference between them: when you start the decreases for the neck and shoulders. They are meant to be as close to the same as possible.
That explains where I got mixed up! Thank you so much!
I am just starting the Youth Damask Cardigan practice swatch. Your gauge instructions say to make 20 sts and 24 rows to make a 10cm square using size 2 (US) or 3mm needles. The needle size for the body of the cardigan says to use 7 (4.5mm). Why would the swatch be made with size 2 needle instead of the 7? Is this a misprint?
I believe that is something I forgot to edit in the list my tech editor sent me 🫣. It should be a 7 (4.5mm) for swatch.
I just found your Noah’s sweater pattern and it looks so nice, next on my needles for sure. Am going to take time to go through your site as well. It looks lovely. I always look for multiple sizes in patterns, whether sewing or knitting, as I do oodles of charity sewing and knitting. I like simple patters, multiple sizes, and something that children will need and like. So I am working on my stash for winter items. Thank you so much.
Hi Amanda.
I am on my second attempt at making your Ethan Ankle Socks and have a few questions.
I have finished the final row 4 of the short rows. My next round I will knit and pick up and work the W&T’s at the end of N1 and finish knitting to the end of N3. I am now at the beginning of N1 and when I start the next row of K1,P1 ribbing my first few stitches will be W&T’s that need to be resolved. Is this correct?
After doing the required ribbing rounds I folded & picked up and knit the cast on stitches with the stitches on my needle. I end up with my working yarn on my right side at the end of N3 (this would be the correct position of the working yarn for knitting in the round) and the ribbing stitches on the outside. On the picture of your socks I do not see any ribbing on the outside of the cuff and you have a smooth transition of stockinette stitches. If I flip my work so the ribbing is inside the cuff my working yarn is coming out the front of the last stitch on N3. As Row 1 of the heel flap should be RS row with my ribbing on the inside I would be on a WS row for Row 1. I also have a row of purl bumps that were created when the cast on stitches were picked up which you do not have on your photo’s. I hope this makes sense as I really want to make the socks but can not figure out what I am doing wrong.
you know what, there isn’t supposed to be any ribbing on the cuff. I missed that edit from my tech editor. 😬🫣 My mistake. Also, make sure that you fold the cuff wrong sides together when you knit the cast on edge together with the last round of the cuff to avoid the purl bumps.
Wow! I was just looking at sock patterns on Ravelry and was lucky enough to find some of your designs for socks . . . that led me to your free knitting patterns, and I am gobsmacked! I don’t know how I can possibly choose what to make first. Your patterns are clearly written and classically designed I don’t know what to choose to get started. Don’t know how I am going to get any sleep tonight. Thank you so much for generously sharing all your creations.
❤️ Thank you! I’m so glad you found me!
I am trying to understand the W&T for the ankle socks pattern on the cuff short rows. Do you have any videos on how to do that or can recommend to watch?
I’ve watched many on You Tube and just get more confused.
Thank you,
Roberta
I have yet to make any videos for short rows 🫣 I keep forgetting. I do like this video. It is very thorough and she takes it nice and slow. https://youtu.be/3U5fgyBcPPM?si=4v00tcO2wiWXQLJO
Hi I’m making the Damask children’s cardigan and I cannot for the life of me get the pattern right when I start shaping the neck, any tips. I’ve mapped it out on graph paper etc and still it’s not right!
You can place stitch markers at the beginning of each stitch pattern repeat so you won’t lose track of where you are in the stitch pattern.
Amanda, I need help on the Asher Bonnet. I have knitted up to 5 inches straight, now ready to begin in the round with DP’s. What do I do with the 5 inches that’s left open? Do I sew it up and then begin the I-cord or what. Is there a video tutorial? I’m using Knit Picks Comfy fingering weight.
Okay, I replied to your other comment but this comment I think I understand what you’re asking now. The side ends of the rows worked flat, that’s the part that goes from the back of the head to under the chin. If you sew that up you turn the bonnet into a beanie.
Re: Nocholas Bonnet
What does this instruction mean:
Row 6 – k1, p1, k1, p1 [t2f, k1, p1, k1, t2b, p1] repeat [to] across to last 3 sts, k1, p1,k1
Do you mean that I am to repeat ONLY what is within the previous brackets until I get to the last 3 sts?
(Am not understanding what the [to] means. Sorry, I’m new at this.)
yes, that is exactly it – bracket to bracket = [to]
Hello
I am looking for your tutorial on I cord edging for the Wheat Bonnet. I am stuck. Ist cord completed but not sure how to go from there. Thanks
I have an older video tutorial for that. I am lefthanded so it will appear backwards for you if you’re right handed but it should still help you. (I learned everything I know from right handed videos which are backwards to me! I promise, it will help) https://youtu.be/3li-QWHn8B0?si=8awOlJvm-Ww3oDEh
Hi there, this is in reference to your September Socks. I have copied the directions for the Heel Flap below as you wrote it and I am wondering if there is an error in Row 1.
Did you mean to say the following: Row 1 (RS): (sl1, k1) to end, turn work
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Heel Flap
Next round: k20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), then place these sts on hold. You will work the heel flap on the next k20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sts.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end, turn work
Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end, turn work
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 8 (10, 12), 13, 14, (16, 18) times.
This is a total of 16 (20, 24), 26, 28, (32, 36) rows.
no. the September socks have a stockinette heel flap, not a sl1, k1 heel flap
Thank you! Love your patterns and happy new year!
Bonjour,
Je suis en train de faire le pull Noah (arc en ciel).
En lisant les explications, n’y aurait-il pas une erreur pour le raglan ?
Quelque soit la taille, vous donnez (exemple taille 3 ans) dos 38 manche 1 6 m devant 38 m manche 2 6m
Quant vous faites les augmentations, ne manque-t-il pas la maille centrale entre le dos et la manche et le devant et la manche soit 4 mailles ?
Si on regarde bien la photo, il y a bien normalement cette fameuse maille, donc le compte de la mise en forme est-elle erronée ?
Merci pour votre réponse
No, the Raglan increase round instructions are correct. That is exactly what I did in the sweater – [k1, m1L, knit to 1 st before next marker, m1r, k1, sm,] repeat [to] 3 more times, then continue to end of row/round. 8 sts increased. It is not 1 stitch between increases, it’s 2 stitches.
Hi, thank you for your patterns which are lovely. I am knitting the I-cord bonnet for my new grandaughter. I am so confused. I watched the tutorial mentioned above but I am unsure if the I-cord goes on the bit around the face or the bit coming from the back? I can’t tell which is which in the video. I had assumed it was the bit around the face. Also where I have decreased on double pointed needles I have untidy loose threads? Should I sew up to where the decrease started to disguise them? You don’t say how it is finished off after you have pulled the yarn through the last 11 stitches.
The i-cord goes on the front around the face using the provisional cast on stiches to make an i-cord bind off. yes, you cinch the back stitches shut just like the top of a beanie and weave in the ends.
I am knitting the Youth Damask cardi pattern and am struggling to understand how you can add 2 stitches per round on the sleeves and keep the pattern in order.
You will work in the stitches to the pattern as you go, building repeats out from where it is already established. I hop this visual below helps you understand what I’m trying to say. (i is increase, k is knit, p is purl)
kkkpkpkkkpkpkkk
ikkpppkkkpppkki
kkpkpkkkpkpkk
kkpppkkkpppkk
kkpkpkkkpkpkk
ipkkkpkpkkkpi
pkkkpppkkkp
pkkkpkpkkkp
pkkkpppkkkp
ikkkpkpkkki
Thank you so much for all of these lovely patterns and tutorials. I am knitting the mini bobble bonnet and I’m confused about something. Every time I knit a bobble, I’m losing a stitch so with eight bobbles in one row, I’ve lost eight stitches thus going from 73 to 65. If I keep going, I’ll keep losing stitches. However, in your pattern, you say there’s going to be 72 stitches when we start the decreases, but that won’t be the case. What am I missing here?
you only decrease the 2 you added in the process of making the bobble. It should even out after a bobble is completed. YOu go from 1 st, to 3sts, back to 1 st.
I understand now, thanks. It’s three stitches made out of one, not three separate stitches. And I appreciate you responding so quickly.