Looking for a pretty lace ankle sock pattern? Find this one (Sophia Socks) at the bottom, plus more on the sock pattern page!
Let’s be honest: sometimes, you just want to knit something that’s quick, elegant, and has just the right touch of dainty charm. That’s exactly how I felt when I cast on for this lace ankle sock pattern. I’d already fallen in love with the lace edging on my Sophia Skirt pattern, and I couldn’t resist adapting it into something cozy and delicate for my feet. Thus, the Sophia Socks were born!
These socks check all the boxes: lightweight, lacy, and perfectly suited for warmer days—or just for lounging around feeling fancy. In this post, I’ll walk you through the inspiration, construction, and yarn I used, plus why I think this lace ankle sock pattern deserves a spot in your project basket.
Inspired by the Sophia Skirt
If you’ve knit the Sophia Skirt, you’ll recognize the sweet little lace edge that finishes off these socks. I loved how the delicate eyelet trim on the skirt added a vintage flair without being fussy. It felt too pretty to use just once, so I repurposed it for the cuff of this lace ankle sock pattern—and it worked like a dream.
The socks are top-down, which means you start right at the lace edge and work your way down to the toes. They also feature a classic short-row heel, which is such a satisfying technique once you get the hang of it.
The Yarn: Unicorn-Level Pretty
To bring this lace ankle sock pattern to life, I used Hobbii Unicorn Solids (affiliate link). The name alone had me intrigued, and the yarn did not disappoint. It’s smooth, springy, and the stitch definition makes that lace detail really pop. Plus, the color range is so fun—you’ll definitely be tempted to make more than one pair.
I knit mine in a soft pastel sage that felt very nature inspired, but I can see these in just about any shade. Whether you go for bold and punchy or soft and subtle, Hobbii Unicorn Solids (affiliate link) will make your lace ankle sock pattern stand out.
Construction Details: DPNs and Lace
I used my trusty 2.25mm double-pointed needles (affiliate link) for this lace ankle sock pattern. If you prefer magic loop or two circulars, feel free to swap in your favorite sock method, but there’s something so classic about DPNs that just makes my heart happy.
After casting on, you’ll knit the lace edge flat and then join in the round to start shaping the leg. That transition is such a fun little milestone. The rest of the sock is smooth sailing: a short-row heel, simple foot shaping, and a rounded toe.
And if you’ve never worked a short-row heel before, don’t worry—I walk through that technique step-by-step in my video tutorial, and I promise it’s less intimidating than it sounds. Once you’ve knit it once, it’ll be second nature.
Why I Love a Good Lace Ankle Sock Pattern
Here’s the thing: I love full-length socks, but ankle socks have a special place in my heart. They knit up faster, they’re perfect for spring and summer, and they let you wear your handknits even when it’s not sweater weather. Plus, that little peek of lace above your sneakers or flats? So cute.
This lace ankle sock pattern is just the right amount of feminine, and I love how it manages to look both vintage and fresh. Whether you’re gifting a pair or keeping them for yourself (no judgment—I kept mine!), they’re a lovely little project that’s as fun to wear as they are to knit.
More Free Sock Patterns to Explore
While the Sophia Socks are featured at the bottom of this post, I’ve got a whole collection of sock patterns ready for you over on my free sock pattern page. Whether you’re into ankle socks, full-lengths, ribbed, cabled, or colorwork, there’s something for everyone.
If you’re here for more lace ankle sock pattern goodness, I recommend checking out the Deborah Ankle Socks and Danielle Ankle Socks. They each bring a unique flair to the ankle sock category, and they’re all free.
Tips for Knitting the Sophia Socks
- Swatch in the round. I know, I know. Swatching isn’t always fun, but with a lace ankle sock pattern like this, it helps make sure your fit is just right.
- Block the lace. The lace edge really shines after a light blocking—it opens up and adds that final polish.
- Don’t skip the short-row heel. It’s neat, snug, and doesn’t require a gusset, so it keeps the design sleek and streamlined.
- Use stitch markers liberally. Especially while working the lace repeat at the top—markers help keep your place and save your sanity.
Final Thoughts on This Lace Ankle Sock Pattern
I had so much fun designing and knitting the Sophia Socks. There’s something deeply satisfying about a project that looks delicate and detailed but is totally doable for an intermediate knitter. This lace ankle sock pattern delivers on all fronts: it’s elegant, quick to knit, and just plain fun.
Whether you’re casting on your very first pair of socks or looking for something fresh to add to your handmade sock drawer, give the Sophia Socks a try. You’ll find the lace ankle sock pattern at the very bottom of this post, and I’d love to see your version! Tag me on Instagram or drop a comment on the blog—sharing your projects makes my day.
Grab the Pattern
The Sophia Socks lace ankle sock pattern is right below—ready for you to download and cast on. Don’t forget to visit the sock pattern page for even more styles to knit your way through every season.
Happy knitting!
Sophia Sock Pattern
Materials:
Yarn: approximately 350, 400, 450yds of fingering weight sock yarn Hobbii Unicorn Solids (Affiliate Link) 437yd/100g
Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop) I like KnitPicks Reflections
Notions: stitch markers, needle
Gauge: 10sts x 18rows per inch
sizing:
child, adult small, adult large
Finished measurements (unstretched):
Foot Length (adjustable): 7.5, 9, 10ins or 19, 22.5, 25cms
Cuff length (adjustable): 4, 5, 6ins or 10, 12.5, 15cms
This pattern comes is a top down, heel flap sock. If you are a left-handed knitter (working left to right) there are no modifications required for this pattern.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Cuff
Cast on 50, 60, 70 sts, join for working in the round.
Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:
1st needle – 25, 30, 35sts
2nd needle – 10, 15, 20sts
3rd needle – 15, 15,15sts
Round 1 – [yo, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, yo, k1] around
Round 2 – knit around
Round 3 – [k1, yo, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k2, yo, k2] around
Round 4 – knit around
Round 5 – [k2, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, yo, k3] around
Round 6 – knit around
Round 7 – [k3, yo, sl1, k1, psso, yo, k4] around
Round 8 – knit around
Repeat rounds 1-8 1 more time.
Work 0, 4, 6 more rounds in stockinette stitch.
Mitered Heel
Knit 1 stitch remains on needle 3; Wrap and Turn.
Purl until 1 stitch remains on needle 2, W&T.
Turn and knit to 1 st before wrapped st; W& T.
Turn and purl to 1 st before wrapped st, W&T.
Continue in this manner until there are 9, 12, 13 sts between wrapped sts.
With RS facing, K to first wrapped st, pick up the wrap and K it together with the st it wraps; Turn
Slip 1, Purl to first wrapped st, pick up the wrap and P it together with the st it wraps, turn
Slip 1, knit across to next wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and K it together with the st it wraps; Turn
Slip 1, Purl to next wrapped st, pick up the wrap and P it together with the st it wraps, turn
Continue working the last 2 rows, working one more st each row.
When you have worked the last wrapped st on the WS, turn and K back; continue in the round, working in pattern across the instep where you left off.
Foot
Needle 1 should now have 25, 30, 35 sts
Needle 2 should have 13, 15, 18 sts
Needle 3 should have 12, 15, 17 sts
The new beginning of round is now needle 1.
Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 5.5, 7, 8ins or 14, 17.5, 20cms (or desired length) from back of heel, or 1.5, 2, 2.25ins or 4, 5, 5.5 cms short of desired foot length. (Example: I wear a US size 10 and need to knit to 8.25ins before the toe decreases.)
Toe
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]
Round 2: knit
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7, 9, 11 times. Until 22, 24, 26 sts remain.
For a left-handed tutorial of these decreases visit my youtube here
Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to sew the toe closed, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends
Kitchener stitch:
Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and bottom NOT side to side)
Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.
Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back) through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the needle.
Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off the needle.
Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.
Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:
Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,
Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,
Repeat!
At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.
Work steps 1 and 3 once more.
For a left-handed video tutorial of this visit my youtube here
Abbreviations
k – knit
P – purl
sm – slip maker
pm – place marker
st – stich
sts – stitches
bor – beginning of round
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
yo – yarn over
psso – pass slipped stitch over
sl – slip the next stitch as if to knit
w&t – wrap and turn – wrap the yarn around the next stitch, turn the work (right to wrong side or wrong to right side)
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