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I don’t know about you, but I hate to waste time. And to me swatching new knit stitches feels like such a waste. Don’t get me wrong, I do it every time I make a new design, but it feels like such a waste of time. To rectify this, I recently started using socks as my swatch so I can see the stitch pattern and decide if I really like it or not. And that is how Deborah Ankle Socks came to be. I was swatching for a summer sweater that is currently on my needles for my daughter, Baby Deborah Tee (coming soon!!!!).
I named them Deborah because the eyelet almost looks like honeycomb to me and Deborah means bee! It was meant to bee clearly. 😉 Okay, that was a bad dad joke but to be serious, that is how I name all my designs. I search for a name that I feel matches the stitch pattern best based on the attributes. Sometimes it’s obvious (ie Wheat Cardigan) and sometimes it’s more subtle like Deborah Ankle Socks. You probably wouldn’t know that Deborah means bee unless it was your name or you’re in Core Group (you know who you are!!!) since we recently did a series study on Deborah in the Book of Judges.
For yarn I used KnitPicks Muse because it’s a soft yet sturdy yarn with beautiful vibrant colors. This was only my second time using this yarn and I love it just as much as the first time. The colors do not pool in my experience which is perfect. I know some people love pooling and that’s awesome. I am not those people. Neither is wrong. It’s purely preference. That is another reason I love Muse though.
To purchase the yarn for this project click here.
Materials and Info
Yarn: 1 hank of Knitpicks Muse (100g/423yd)
Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop) Notions: stitch markers, needle
Gauge: 8sts x 11rows per inch
sizing: baby (toddler, child,) lg child, adult S, (M, L)
Finished measurements (unstretched):
Leg Length (adjustable): 2.5 (3.5, 4) 4.5, 5, (6, 7)”
Foot Length (adjustable): 4 (6, 7.25), 8, 9, (10, 11.25)”
Deborah Ankle Socks are a shorter version of Deborah Socks. They were initially created as a test swatch for Deborah Tee.
I chose to use KnitPicks Muse because it is durable and the colors are lovely. Short rows are used to make the tab on the ankle. I use a yarn over wrap and turn (w&t) method of short rows but you can use any method that works for you, understanding I will use the w&t abbreviation for where the short row should be turned.
Model is wearing a adult medium.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Deborah Lace Stitch Patten
Rounds 1-3 – knit across
Round 4 – [yo, k1, K2tog, k1] repeat [to] across
Rounds 5-7 – knit across
Round 8 – [k2tog, k1, yo, k1] repeat [to] across
Deborah Ankle Socks Pattern
Cuff
Cast on 40 (44, 52) 56, 60, (64, 72) sts, join for working in the round.
Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:
1st needle 20 (22, 26) 28, 30 (32, 36) sts
2nd and 3rd needle 10 (11, 13) 14, 15 (16, 18) sts each needle
Work in Stockinette for 4 (5, 5) 5, 5, (5, 6) rounds.
Short rows:
Row 1 – Work across 1st needle to 1 st remaining on needle, W&T.
Row 2 – Work across to 1 st remaining on the needle, W&T.
Row 3 – Work across to 1 st before last wrap, W&T.
Row 4 – Work across to 1 st before last wrap, W&T.
Repeat rounds 3 & 4: 1 (1, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) times.
Next round: Work across cuff in stockinette, picking up wraps and working them together with the sts they wrap as you complete this round.
Work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 4 (5, 5) 5, 5, (5, 6) rounds.
Next Round: Fold the cast on edge into the sock, lining up the cast on edge with the current working sts. *Pick up the cast on stitch directly above the current stitch, k2tog, rep from * to the end of the rnd, the stitch count will not change.
Heel Flap
Next round: You will work the heel flap on the next 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sts. Place the remaining 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sts on hold.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end, turn work.
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 8 (10, 12), 13, 14, (16, 18) times.
This is a total of 16 (20, 24), 26, 28, (32, 36) rows.
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k12 (12, 14), 15, 16, (18, 20), ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, p7 (5, 5) 5, 5, (7, 7), p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked: 14 (14, 16), 16, 18, (20, 22) sts remain.
Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.
Gusset
You will now start working the Deborah lace stitch pattern on the front of the sock. Start by working a round 1. You will begin the Deborah Lace Stitch Pattern as follows (Only the top of foot stitches are mentioned here): knit 0 (1, 1) 0, 1 (0, 0), work 20, (20, 24) 28, 28 (32, 36), knit 0 (1, 1) 0, 1 (0, 0)
.
Pick up and knit 9 (11, 13), 14, 15, (17, 19) sts along the edge of heel flap, PM, Work Deborah lace stitch pattern 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), PM, pick up and knit 9 (11, 13), 14, 15, (17, 19) sts along heel flap, k7 (7, 8) 8, 9, (10, 11) sts, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the foot). [52 (58, 68) 72, 78, (86, 96) sts]
Round 1: k 16 (18, 21) 22, 24 (27, 30) sts, work Deborah lace stitch pattern across 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), k 16 (18, 21) 22, 24 (27, 30) sts
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work Deborah lace stitch pattern 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 6 (7, 8) 8, 9, (11, 12) times. [40 (44, 52) 56, 60, (64, 72) sts]
Foot
Shift beginning of round (BOR) remove marker as follows: remove marker, k10 (11, 13) 14, 15, (16, 18), place marker – this is the new BOR, located at the side of the foot.
Continue working in the round, keeping the top of foot in pattern, until the piece measures 3 (5, 6) 6.5, 7, (8, 9)” from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1.5) 1.75, 2, (2, 2.25)” short of desired foot length.
Toe
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]
Round 2: knit
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 5 (6, 7) 8, 9, (9, 10) times. until 16 (16, 20) 20, 20, (24, 24) sts remain.
Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends
Abbreviations and Tutorials
Kitchener stitch:
Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and bottom NOT side to side)
Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.
Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back) through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the needle.
Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off the needle.
Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.
Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:
Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,
Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,
Repeat!
At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.
Work steps 1 and 3 once more.
Abbreviations
k – knit
P – purl
sm – slip maker
pm – place marker
st – stich
sts – stitches
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
w&t – wrap the yarn around the next stitch, turn work