This cabled top down sock knitting pattern is one of my favorite options for knitters who want a sock with texture, structure, and classic style while still enjoying the familiar construction of free sock knitting patterns.

The Reuben Socks feature a fully cabled design worked from the cuff down with a traditional heel flap, creating a polished finished look that feels much more advanced than it actually is.

If you’ve been searching for a sock pattern that looks impressive but still follows a comfortable top-down construction, this pattern solves that problem beautifully. The all-over cable pattern keeps the knitting engaging from start to finish, while the included ankle and crew length options let you customize the finished socks for different seasons and preferences. With sizing from baby through large adult, this is a versatile cabled top down sock knitting pattern you can use for the whole family.

The best part about this design is how polished it looks once finished. The cables create rich texture all the way down the leg and foot, giving these socks a timeless heirloom feel while still being practical enough for everyday wear.

Whether you want a shorter ankle sock for transitional weather or a taller crew sock for colder months, this pattern gives you both options in one easy-to-follow set of instructions.

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What Materials Do You Need for This Cabled Top Down Sock Knitting Pattern?

To make this cabled top down sock knitting pattern, you only need a few simple supplies. I used Malabrigo Sock yarn for beautiful stitch definition and softness, which helps every cable pop without making the fabric overly stiff.

Materials Needed:

• Malabrigo Sock Yarn
• 2.25mm Double Pointed Needles

Malabrigo Sock is one of my favorite choices for cable socks because it has enough drape to keep the socks comfortable while still offering excellent stitch definition. Since cables naturally tighten gauge a bit, using a soft and springy sock yarn helps balance the fabric beautifully.

Because this pattern includes dense texture throughout, I recommend choosing a tonal or semi-solid yarn rather than a busy variegated colorway. That way all of those cable details stay front and center.

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How Is This Cabled Top Down Sock Knitting Pattern Constructed?

This cabled top down sock knitting pattern begins at the cuff and works downward through the leg before transitioning into a traditional heel flap and gusset construction. If you’re already comfortable with basic heel flap socks, the construction will feel very familiar.

The all-over cable pattern continues throughout the leg and down the top of the foot, creating a cohesive design from cuff to toe. Because the cables run through nearly the entire sock, this pattern is a great way to practice maintaining cable rhythm while working in the round.

If you are newer to cable knitting, I recommend placing a marker between repeats so it is easier to keep your place as the pattern grows.

The ankle and crew length options are worked exactly the same way, simply stopping the leg at your preferred height before moving on to the heel flap.

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Looking for More Free Cabled Sock Patterns?

If you love this cabled top down sock knitting pattern, here are a few more sock patterns you may enjoy next:

• Peter Socks
• Elizabeth Socks
• Love Came Down Socks
• Ezra Socks
• Danielle Socks

Each of these patterns offers a different take on textured or cabled sock knitting, so if you enjoy knitting socks with extra visual interest, you’ll have plenty of options to add to your queue.

From delicate cable panels to bold statement textures, these patterns pair beautifully with the same classic sock construction used in the Reuben Socks.

Once you knit one pair of cabled socks, it becomes very hard to go back to plain stockinette. There is just something so satisfying about watching textured stitches grow round after round.

Reuben Socks Pattern

Materials:  

Yarn: 350, 400, 450yds yds of Malabrigo Sock 440yd (402m)/100g  Needles: US #1 / 2.5mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)  

Notions: stitch markers, needle  

Gauge: 8sts x 11rows per inch 

sizing:  

sizing: child, adult small, 

adult large  

Finished measurements (unstretched):  

Foot Length (adjustable): 7.5, 9, 10ins or 19, 22.5, 25cms  

Leg length (adjustable): 4, 5, 6ins or 10, 12.5, 15cms  

Model is a US ladies size 10w for the tall socks made in an adult large and a US  women’s size 8.5 for the ankle socks made in adult medium. 

Abbreviations can be found on the last page.

Reuben Stitch Pattern 

In the Round 

Round 1 – [p1, k3, p2, k2, (k1, yo, k1) in the next st, p1] around 

Round 2 – [p1, k3, p2, k2, wyib sl3, p1] around 

Round 3 – [p1, k3, p2, sl2 onto cable needle and hold in back, k3tog, k2 from cable  needle, p1] around 

Round 4 – [p1, k3 p1] around 

Round 5 – [p1, k2, (k1, yo, k1) in the next st, p2, k3, p1] around 

Round 6 – [p1, k2, wyib sl3, p2, k3, p1] around 

Round 7 – [p1, sl2 onto cable needle and hold in back, k3tog, k2 from cable needle,  p2, k3,p1] around 

Round 8 – [p1, k3 p1] around 

Flat 

Row 1 – [p1, k3, p2, k2, (k1, yo, k1) in the next st, p1] around 

Row 2 – [k1, wyif sl3, p2, k2, p3, k1] across 

Row 3 – [p1, k3, p2, sl2 onto cable needle and hold in back, k3tog, k2 from cable  needle, p1] around 

Row 4 – [k1, p3, k1] across 

Row 5 – [p1, k2, (k1, yo, k1) in the next st, p2, k3, p1] around 

Row 6 – [k1, p3, k2, wyif sl3, p2, k1] across 

Row 7 – [p1, sl2 onto cable needle and hold in back, k3tog, k2 from cable needle, p2,  k3,p1] around 

Row 8 – [k1, p3, k1] across

Cuff 

Cast on 50, 60, 70 sts, join for working in the round.  

If using dpn separate stitches as follows:  

1^st needle – 10, 15, 20sts  

2^nd needle – 15, 15,15sts  

3^rd needle – 25, 30, 35sts  

If working on circulars place a marker at beginning of round and at 25, 30, 35sts 

Longer length leg 

Work in 1×1 rib (k1p1 around) for 10, 12, 14 rounds 

Ankle length leg 

Work in 1×1 rib (k1p1 around) for 16, 20, 20 round 

Set-up round – [p1, k3, p1] around 

Longer length leg 

Then work in the Reuben stitch pattern until 

Work rounds 1-8 above until piece measures 4, 5, 6 inches or 10, 12.5, 15cms from  cast on (or desired length) ending after completing an even round of the stitch  pattern 

Ankle length leg 

Then work in Reuben Stitch Pattern for 4 rounds 

Heel Flap  

Next round: Work across 25, 30, 35sts in established stitch pattern. Place these  stitches on hold. The heel flap will be worked flat, turning after each row, with only  the 25, 30, 35 sts on the 3^rd needle  

Continue working in Reuben Stitch Pattern for a total of 20, 26, 30 rows, slipping the  first stitch of each row. Now work 2 more rows only as follows: 

Row 1 – sl1, p3, k1 [k1, p3, k1] across to last 5sts, k1, p3, k1 

Row 2 – sl1, k3, p1 [p1, k3, p1] across to last 5sts, p1, k3, p1 

Heel Turn  

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k 13, 16, 19, ssk, k1, turn work.  

Row 2 (WS): sl1, p4, 5, 6, p2tog, p1, turn work.  

Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.  

Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work. 

Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked:  

15, 18, 21 sts remain.  

Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.  

Gusset  

With needle 3, pick up and knit 12, 15, 17 sts along the edge of heel flap, PM, Work  across 25, 30, 35 on hold in established pattern, PM,  

Pick up and knit 12, 15, 17 sts along heel flap onto needle 2,  

K8, 9, 11 sts onto needle 2, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the foot).  [90 sts]  

Round 1: knit to marker, work in pattern to marker, knit to bor  

Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work in pattern to next marker,  sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]  

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7, 9, 10 times. [50, 60, 70 sts]  

After last round, remove bor marker, knit the stitches on needle 3, place bor marker.  

Foot  

Continue working in the round in established pattern until the piece measures 5.5, 7,  8ins or 14, 17.5, 20cms (or desired length) from back of heel, or 1.5, 2, 2.25ins or 4,  5, 5.5 cms short of desired foot length. (Example: I wear a US size 10 and need to knit  to 8.25ins before the toe decreases.) Ending after completing a round 3, 4, 7, 8 of the  reuben stitch pattern. 

The Reuben stitch pattern ends here. You will work in stockinette throughout for the  remainder of the socks.  

Toe  

Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end  of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]  

Round 2: knit  

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7, 9, 11 times. Until 22, 24, 26 sts remain.

Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to sew the toe closed, then graft toe using  Kitchener stitch.  

Weave in all ends  

Kitchener stitch:  

Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and  bottom NOT side to side)  

Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.  Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front  needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back)  through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.  Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the  needle.  

Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on  the needle.  

Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off  the needle.  

Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the  needle.  

From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.  

Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:  

Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on, Back needle: purlwise drop off,  knitwise leave on, Repeat!  

At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.  

Work steps 1 and 3 once more.  

Abbreviations 

Bor- beginning of round 

k – knit  

k2tog -knit 2 stitches together  

k3tog – knit 3 stitches together 

P – purl  

pm – place marker  

ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle,  knit both slipped sts together  

sm – slip maker  

st – stich 

sts – stitches 

wyib – with yarn in back 

yo – yarn over

If you make a pair, I’d love to hear what you think—leave a comment below and tell me whether you chose the ankle or crew length version!

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