This Top Down Cable Sock Pattern is one of my favorite free sock knitting patterns for knitters who want classic texture with just enough detail to keep things interesting.
If you’ve been searching for a sock pattern that looks polished without being overly complicated, this design solves that beautifully. The all-over 2×2 rib creates a stretchy, comfortable fit while the cable detail at the cuff adds a clean decorative touch without slowing down the rest of the knitting. With instructions for ankle and crew lengths plus sizing from baby through large adult, this is a practical sock pattern you can use again and again for the whole family.
If you love knitting socks that feel timeless and wearable, this Top Down Cable Sock Pattern is exactly that kind of project. The simple ribbing makes the knitting rhythmic and relaxing, while the cuff cable gives the finished socks that little extra something that makes them stand out.
Whether you’re knitting gift socks, everyday socks, or building up your handmade wardrobe, this is the kind of pattern you’ll come back to over and over.
What Materials Do You Need for This Top Down Cable Sock Pattern?
For this Top Down Cable Sock Pattern, I kept the materials simple and practical so you can jump right in without hunting down specialty tools.
I love using KnitPicks Hawthorne for these socks because it gives beautiful stitch definition and really helps the ribbing and cable pop. Universal Yarns Zesty Sock Yarn is another excellent option if you want something with a similar feel and durability.
Both yarns create socks with enough structure to hold the ribbing nicely while still staying soft enough for comfortable everyday wear.
Because this pattern is mostly ribbing, your yarn choice can make a big difference in how crisp the finished texture looks. A smooth plied sock yarn will give you the cleanest result and make the cable detail stand out best.
How Is This Top Down Cable Sock Pattern Constructed?
This Top Down Cable Sock Pattern is worked from the cuff down using a traditional heel flap and gusset construction. The cuff begins with the cable detail, then transitions into simple 2×2 ribbing for the leg and foot to create a stretchy, fitted sock that hugs the foot beautifully.
Because the cable is only worked at the cuff, this pattern gives you the polished look of a cable sock without requiring cable work throughout the entire project. That makes it a great option if you want a sock that looks detailed but still knits up quickly.
The included ankle and crew length options make it easy to customize your socks depending on the season or your personal preference.
If you’ve knit basic top down socks before, this pattern will feel very approachable. The cable detail adds interest without overwhelming the construction, making it a fun next-step project if you’re ready to move beyond plain stockinette socks.
Looking for More Free Sock Knitting Patterns?
If you enjoy this Top Down Cable Sock Pattern, here are a few more sock patterns you may love next:
Each of these free sock knitting patterns offers a different take on texture, cables, or classic sock construction, so there’s plenty to keep your needles busy after you finish Ezra Socks.
For another top-down design with a smaller cable detail, try the Asa free knit sock pattern, which pairs tiny cables with a traditional heel flap.
Whether you prefer bold cables, subtle texture, or classic everyday socks, these patterns make a great next cast-on if you’re building your handmade sock drawer.
One of my favorite things about this pattern is how wearable it is. The ribbed texture and simple cable detail give it plenty of visual interest while still making it practical enough for everyday use.
Ezra Socks Pattern
Materials:
Yarn: Approximately 120 (180, 300, 380), 480 yds / 110 (165, 275, 350), 440 m of Universal Yarn Zesty Sock or Knit Picks Hawthorne.
Notions: Cable needle, stitch markers, tapestry needle, and waste yarn or stitch holders.
Needles: US 1½ (2.5 mm) DPNs or circular needles suitable for working small circumferences.
Gauge: 32 sts and 44 rounds per 4 × 4 in / 10 × 10 cm in stockinette stitch worked in the round, after blocking.
Sizes: Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult M), Adult L.
Regular leg length, adjustable: 2½ (3½, 4½, 6), 7 in / 6.5 (9, 11.5, 15), 18 cm, measured from the cast-on edge to the beginning of the heel flap.
Finished foot length, adjustable: 4 (6, 8, 10), 11¼ in / 10 (15, 20.5, 25.5), 28.5 cm.
The Adult M sample is shown on a wearer with a ladies’ US shoe size 10.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Stitch Pattern
Round 1: [T2F, T2B] around.
Rounds 2–6: [P1, k2, p1] around.
Round 7: [T2B, T2F] around.
Work these seven rounds once where directed. After Round 7, continue in [k1, p2, k1] ribbing as instructed.
Each chart row represents one round. The complete four-column chart is one repeat. Blank squares indicate knit stitches; filled dots indicate purl stitches. The crossing symbols correspond to T2F and T2B in the written instructions.
Cuff
Cast on 40 (48, 56, 64), 72 sts.
Distribute them as follows:
Needle 1 — heel/sole: 20 (24, 28, 32), 36 sts.
Needles 2 and 3 — instep: 10 (12, 14, 16), 18 sts on each needle.
Place a beginning-of-round marker before Needle 1 and join for working in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches. If using circular needles, use markers to identify the heel and instep sections.
Continue stitch repeats across needle boundaries; do not restart a repeat at the beginning of each needle.
For regular length socks
Work [k1, p2, k1] ribbing for ¾ (¾, 1, 1), 1 in / 2 (2, 2.5, 2.5), 2.5 cm.
Work Ezra Stitch Pattern Rounds 1–7 once.
Continue in [k1, p2, k1] ribbing until the leg measures 2½ (3½, 4½, 6), 7 in / 6.5 (9, 11.5, 15), 18 cm from the cast-on edge, or to the desired leg length.
For ankle length socks
Work [k1, p2, k1] ribbing for 6 (6, 7, 9), 11 rounds.
Work Ezra Stitch Pattern Rounds 1–7 once.
Work [k1, p2, k1] ribbing for another 7 (7, 8, 10), 12 rounds.
Heel Flap
Work over the next 20 (24, 28, 32), 36 heel sts. Leave the remaining instep stitches on hold.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 purlwise with yarn at the back, then work in established 2×2 rib to the last 3 sts, p2, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 purlwise with yarn at the front, then work in established 2×2 rib to the last 3 sts, k2, p1, turn.
Work Rows 1–2 a total of 9 (11, 13, 15), 17 times.
[18 (22, 26, 30), 34 rows]
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k12 (14, 15, 18), 20, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p7 (7, 5, 7), 7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1 if a stitch remains beyond the decrease, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1 if a stitch remains beyond the decrease, turn.
Repeat Rows 3–4 until all heel stitches have been incorporated, ending after a WS row.
[14 (16, 16, 20), 22 sts]
Next row (RS): Sl1, knit across the remaining heel stitches.
Gusset
Pick up and knit 10 (12, 14, 16), 18 sts along the first heel-flap edge: one stitch in each slipped edge stitch, plus one at the corner. PM.
Work [k1, p2, k1] across the 20 (24, 28, 32), 36 held instep sts. PM.
Pick up and knit 10 (12, 14, 16), 18 sts along the second heel-flap edge, including the corner stitch.
K7 (8, 8, 10), 11 heel sts. Place a new beginning-of-round marker at the center of the sole.
[54 (64, 72, 84), 94 sts]
Work the instep in established [k1, p2, k1] ribbing and knit all sole stitches.
Round 1: knit to marker, sm, work in established pattern to marker, sm knit to bor marker
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 8, 10) 11 times.
[40, (48, 56, 64) 72 sts]
Foot
Remove the sole beginning-of-round marker. K10 (12, 14, 16), 18 sts to the first instep marker. Designate this marker as the new beginning of round, at the side of the foot. Keep the marker at the other end of the instep.
Continue with [k1, p2, k1] ribbing across the instep and stockinette stitch across the sole until the foot measures approximately 3 (4¾, 6¼, 8¼), 9 in / 7.5 (12, 16, 21), 23 cm from the back of the heel.
Adjust the foot length as needed, allowing approximately 1 (1¼, 1¾, 1¾), 2¼ in / 2.5 (3, 4.5, 4.5), 5.5 cm for the toe before grafting.
Toe
Work all stitches in stockinette from this point.
Round 1: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the instep-end marker, k2tog, k1, sm; k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the beginning of round, k2tog, k1. [4 sts decreased]
Round 2: Knit around.
Work Rounds 1–2 a total of 6 (7, 9, 10), 12 times.
[16 (20, 20, 24), 24 sts]
Cut yarn leaving a long enough tail for sewing the toe closed, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends
Kitchener stitch:
Arrange the instep stitches on one needle and the sole stitches on the other, with equal numbers on each needle. Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to graft the toe, and thread it onto a tapestry needle.
Set-up: Insert the tapestry needle purlwise through the first front stitch, leaving it on the knitting needle. Insert the tapestry needle knitwise through the first back stitch, leaving it on the knitting needle.
Step 1: Insert the tapestry needle knitwise through the first front stitch and slip that stitch off.
Step 2: Insert the tapestry needle purlwise through the next front stitch, leaving it on the knitting needle.
Step 3: Insert the tapestry needle purlwise through the first back stitch and slip that stitch off.
Step 4: Insert the tapestry needle knitwise through the next back stitch, leaving it on the knitting needle.
Repeat Steps 1–4 until one stitch remains on each needle. Work Steps 1 and 3 once more. Adjust the grafting tension and weave in the end.
For a left-handed video tutorial of this visit my youtube here
ABBREVIATIONS
BOR – beginning of round
CN – cable needle
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together; 1 stitch decreased
p – purl
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together; 1 stitch decreased
pm – place marker
RS – right side
sl – slip purlwise unless otherwise specified
sm – slip marker
ssk – slip 2 stitches individually knitwise, then knit them together through the back loops; 1 stitch decreased
st – stitch
sts – stitches
T2B – slip the next stitch purlwise to a cable needle and hold at the back; knit the next stitch, then purl the stitch from the cable needle
T2F – slip the next stitch purlwise to a cable needle and hold at the front; purl the next stitch, then knit the stitch from the cable needle
WS – wrong side
If you make a pair, I’d love to hear what yarn you used and which length you chose—ankle or crew! Drop a comment below and let me know. Hearing how you customize my patterns is always one of my favorite parts of sharing them.
Affiliate links are used in this post. This means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you purchase through my links. Thank you for supporting my work and helping me continue to provide free knitting patterns.
Comments are closed.