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If you’re a knitting enthusiast who loves capturing the timeless beauty of newborns, you’ll adore the Tyler Onesie. This charming piece, crafted from soft and delicate mohair lace yarn, is the perfect photography prop to highlight the innocence of a newborn. Not only does it make for adorable pictures, but it’s also a joy to knit. Here’s why the Tyler Onesie should be your next project.

Why Choose Mohair Lace Yarn?

Softness and Comfort: Mohair lace yarn is incredibly soft and gentle on a newborn’s delicate skin. Its lightweight nature ensures that the baby remains comfortable throughout the photoshoot.

Beautiful Texture: The fine fibers of mohair create a stunning halo effect, adding a dreamy, ethereal quality to your photos. This texture enhances the overall aesthetic, making each picture look like a work of art.

Warmth and Breathability: Despite being lightweight, mohair provides excellent warmth. It’s breathable, ensuring that the baby stays cozy without overheating during the shoot.

I used Knitpicks Aloft which you can purchase here.

The Charm of the Tyler Onesie

Timeless Design: The Tyler Onesie features a classic design that never goes out of style. Its simplicity makes it a versatile piece that complements various photography settings and themes.

Customization Options: This pattern allows for plenty of customization. You can choose from a wide range of colors, add embellishments like buttons or lace, and adjust the size to fit different ages perfectly.

Easy to Knit: While it looks intricate, the Tyler Onesie is straightforward to knit, making it suitable for knitters of all skill levels. The pattern’s simplicity ensures that even beginners can achieve professional-looking results.

Enhancing Your Newborn Photography

Pair with Props: Enhance the Tyler Onesie with additional props like cozy blankets, soft headbands, or tiny hats. These accessories can add layers of texture and interest to your photos.

Soft Lighting: Use natural, soft lighting to highlight the delicate fibers of the mohair lace. This type of lighting will enhance the onesie’s texture and the baby’s features, creating a warm and inviting image.

Comfortable Posing: Ensure the baby is comfortable while posing. The Tyler Onesie’s design is flexible, allowing for easy adjustments to keep the baby cozy and content during the shoot.

Tips for Success

Choose Quality Yarn: Invest in high-quality mohair lace yarn to achieve the best results. The yarn’s quality will directly impact the softness, texture, and overall appearance of the finished onesie.

Proper Blocking: After completing the onesie, take the time to block it properly. Blocking helps to even out stitches and set the fabric, ensuring that your onesie looks its best in photographs.

Careful Weaving: Pay attention to weaving in the ends neatly. This attention to detail will give your finished piece a polished and professional look.

Conclusion

The Tyler Onesie is more than just a knitting project; it’s a beautiful keepsake that captures the fleeting moments of a newborn’s early days. With its delicate mohair lace yarn and timeless design, this onesie is sure to become a favorite prop in any newborn photography session. Happy knitting!

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If you try this pattern, I’d love to see your creations! Share your photos and experiences in the comments below or tag me on social media. Let’s celebrate the joy of knitting and the precious moments it helps us capture.

Materials and Info

Materials: 150-300 yds of lace weight (size 0) mohair yarn (I used knitpicks aloft), size 6 (4 mm) 16in long circular needles, yarn needle, 2 stitch markers, 3 buttons

Gauge: 5.5sts/in ~GAUGE IS VERY IMPORTANT~

Finished Measurements: nb (13ins chest, 12.5ins long) 3mths (15ins, 14ins long), 6mth (17ins chest, 16ins long)

K – knit

P – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

sl – slip

yo – yarn over

sm – slip marker

m1 – make one

ssk – slip, slip, knit

Tyler Onesie Pattern

NEWBORN
YOKE
Cast on 56sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – k4, p48, k4
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – k4, p48, k4
Row 4 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, knit across
Row 5 – k4, p48, k4
Row 6 – k4, [m1, k4] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (68sts)
Row 7 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 10 – k4, [m1, k5] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (80sts)
Row 11 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 12 – knit across
Row 13 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 14 – k4, [m1, k6] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (92sts)
Row 15 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 16 – knit across
Row 17 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 18 – k4, [m1, k7] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (104sts)
Row 19 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 20 – buttonhole row- k2, yo, k2tog, knit across
Row 21 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 22 – k4, [m1, k24] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (108sts)
Row 23 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 24 – knit across
Row 25 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
ARMS
Row 26 – k17, bind off 22, k30, bind off 22, k17 (64sts)
Row 27 – k4, purl to armhole, place marker, cast on 2, purl to armhole, cast on 2, place marker (this will become your start of round marker when you join in the round) purl to last 4sts, k4 (68sts)
BODY
Row 28 – knit across
Row 29 – k4, purl across to last 4sts, k4
Repeat rows 28 and 29 3 more times
Row 36 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k64
Row 37 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 38– knit to the last 4 sts, join the button band as follows: Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row behind the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1 st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. (64sts)
Continue working in stockinette stitch until your work measures 6.5ins from row 25 armhole cast on.

LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts) keep the remaining 34 back stitches on a stitch holder.
Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – knit across
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – knit across
Leave the remaining 16sts on a stitch holder for kitchener stitch and cut yarn. If you uncomfortable with kitchener stitch bind off and cut yarn. Pick up the 34 sts for the back.
Start work with right side facing.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other). If you are uncomfortable with kitchener stitch than you can bind off and sew the ends together.
Weave in all ends. Block as needed.

3 MONTH
YOKE
Cast on 65sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – k4, p57, k4
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – k4, p57, k4
Row 4 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, knit across
Row 5 – k4, p57, k4
Row 6 – k4, k9, [m1, k4] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (77sts)
Row 7 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 10 – k4, k9, [m1, k5] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (89sts)
Row 11 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 12 – knit across
Row 13 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 14 – k4, k9, [m1, k6] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (101sts)
Row 15 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 16 – knit across
Row 17 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 18 – k4, k9, [m1, k7] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (113sts)
Row 19 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 20 – buttonhole row- k2, yo, k2tog, knit across
Row 21 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 22 – k4, m1, k9, [m1, k8] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (126sts)
Row 23 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 24 – knit across
Row 25 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 26 – knit across
Row 27 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
ARMS
Row 28 – k21, bind off 25, k34, bind off 25, k21 (76sts)
Row 29 – k4, purl to armhole, cast on 1, place marker, cast on 1, purl to armhole, cast on 1, place marker, cast on 1 (this will become your start of round marker when you join in the round) purl to last 4sts, k4 (80sts)
BODY
Row 30 – knit across
Row 31 – k4, purl across to last 4sts, k4
Repeat rows 30 and 31 2 more times
Row 36 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k76
Row 37 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 38 – knit to the last 4 sts, join the button band as follows: Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row behind the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1 st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. (76sts)
Continue working in stockinette stitch until your work measures 7.5ins from row 29
armhole cast on.
LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts) keep the remaining 40 back stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – knit across
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – knit across
Leave the remaining 18sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 40 sts for the back. Start work with right side facing. If you uncomfortable with kitchener stitch bind off and cut yarn.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 22 – purl across
Row 23 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 24 – purl across
Row 25 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other). If you are uncomfortable with kitchener stitch than you can bind off and sew the ends together.
Weave in all ends. Block as needed.

6 MONTH
YOKE
Cast on 73sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – k5, p63, k5
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – k5, p63, k5
Row 4 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, knit across
Row 5 – k5, p63, k5
Row 6 – k8, [m1, k6] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (83sts)
Row 7 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 10 – k8, [m1, k7] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (93sts)
Row 11 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 12 – knit across
Row 13 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 14 – k8, [m1, k8] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (103sts)
Row 15 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 16 – knit across
Row 17 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 18 – k8, [m1, k9] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (113sts)
Row 19 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 20 – buttonhole row- k2, yo, k2tog, knit across
Row 21 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 22 – k8, [m1, k10] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (123sts)
Row 23 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 24 – knit across
Row 25 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 26 – k8, [m1, k11] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (133sts)
Row 27– k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 28 – knit across
Row 29 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 30 – k8, [m1, k12] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (143sts)
Row 31 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 32 – knit across
Row 33 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
ARMS
Row 34 – k23, bind off 27, k42, bind off 27, k24 (89sts)
Row 35 – k5, purl to armhole, place marker, cast on 2, purl to armhole, cast on 2, place marker (this will become your start of round marker when you join in the round) purl to last 5sts, k5 (93sts)
BODY
Row 36 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k89
Row 37 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 38- knit across
Row 39 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 40 – knit to the last 5 sts, join the button band as follows: Place the remaining 5 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 5 stitches on your needle from the previous row behind the first 5 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1 st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 4 more times. (88sts)
Continue working in stockinette stitch until your work measures 9ins from row 35 armhole cast on.
LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k36, k2tog, k1 (40sts) keep the remaining 46 back stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 22 – purl across
Row 23 – knit across
Row 24 – purl across
Row 25 – knit across
Leave the remaining 20sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 46 sts for the back. Start work with right side facing. If you uncomfortable with kitchener stitch bind off and cut yarn.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k40, k2tog, k1 (44sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k38, k2tog, k1 (42sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k36, k2tog, k1 (40sts).
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 22 – purl across
Row 23 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 24 – purl across
Row 25 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 26 – purl across
Row 27 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other). If you are uncomfortable with kitchener stitch than you can bind off and sew the ends together.
Weave in all ends. Block as needed.

Tyler Onesie PDF