Dive into the fun story of our zip up child cardigan and check out all our other sweaters on the free sweater pattern page on my blog!

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The Birth of the Zip Up Child Cardigan

I never thought I’d become a master of the zip up child cardigan, but here we are, thanks to my sixth child, Judah. He had this grand vision for a sweater, and I was just the mom to make it happen.

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The Design Brief

Judah had a list, oh boy, did he have a list. First off, it HAD to be a zip up child cardigan. No buttons, no pullovers, just a good old-fashioned zip. He wanted that 1×1 rib, which he charmingly described as “that stripy thing like Eli’s hat.” The neck? A folded-over mock turtleneck, because apparently, regular necks are for amateurs. It had to be slightly baggy, because who doesn’t love a bit of extra room for comfort? Color-wise, he was set on brown or green, and the texture? It better be soft and not itchy, or this zip up child cardigan was going nowhere.

The Zipper Challenge

Now, here’s where I got a bit scared. I had never sewn a zipper before, and the thought of ruining this zip up child cardigan was daunting. I wanted it to look store-bought, not like a kindergarten craft project. So, I embarked on a research marathon. I watched tutorials, read blogs, and finally stumbled upon a method using blocking wires that seemed both foolproof and straightforward. If you’re curious, here’s the tutorial (insert-link-here) that saved my sanity.

Choosing the Yarn

After much debate, I settled on the Upcycle Alpaca Blend from KnitPicks (affiliate link). It was love at first touch. So soft, yet it had the durability of acrylic mixed with the warmth of wool. This yarn was perfect for our zip up child cardigan. I was so enamored with it that I ordered enough to make myself two sweaters. You can find the pattern for one of those sweaters – Rosemary Cardigan – here. It might just be my new favorite worsted yarn, and you’ll see it making frequent appearances in my projects.

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The Big Reveal

When the zip up child cardigan was finally finished, Judah was thrilled. He wore it to church, showing it off to everyone. His only “complaint” was that it was “too warm,” but in Montana’s winter, that’s just a sign of success! He’s now wearing his zip up child cardigan every chance he gets, which fills this mom’s heart with joy.

A Labor of Love

Creating this zip up child cardigan was a journey of learning, laughter, and love. It was more than just knitting; it was about bringing a vision to life and seeing the happiness it brought to my child. If you’re looking to make your own zip up child cardigan, I’ve shared the pattern for free on my blog. Give it a go, and maybe your little one will have their own favorite sweater story to tell.

Conclusion

So, if you’re in need of a new project or just want to see the smile on your child’s face when they get exactly what they wanted, give this zip up child cardigan a try. It’s not just knitting; it’s an adventure in love and creativity. Check out the free pattern on my blog and let’s spread the joy of cozy, custom-made fashion!

Hope this brings a smile to your face and inspires you to make your own zip up child cardigan!

Materials and Info

MATERIALS AND INFO

Size: 3, 4 (5, 6) 7, 8, (9, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14)

Materials: Approximately 3, 4 (4, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 (7, 8) balls of KnitPick Upcycle Alpaca Blend Worsted in Latte (219y/100g),  15, 15 (16, 17) 18 19 (20, 20) 21, 21 (23, 25) inch separating zipper, yarn needle, stitch markers

Needle Size: 7(US) 4.5mm straight needle 6(US) 4mm 24in circular needle

Gauge (tension): 20sts & 35 rows to make 10cm square, using size 7(US) 4.5mm needles

Chest Measurement: 55, 57 (59, 61) 64, 67 (70, 73) 76, 79 (82, 90) cm

METHOD

This Youth Judah Zipped Cardigan is a drop sleeve style that is worked flat from the bottom up with 10cm of ease. The main body is knit in a broken rib pattern while the edges are worked in a 1×1 rib pattern.

BROKEN RIB PATTERN

Row 1(right side row) – knit across

Row 2 – (k1, p1) across

1X1 RIB PATTERN

Row 1 (right side row) – (k1, p1) across

Row 2 – knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches.

Youth Judah Zipped Cardigan Pattern

BACK

Cast on 74, 76 (78, 80) 84, 86 (90, 94) 96, 100 (104, 112) sts using the cast on of your choice.

Work 4 cms of 1×1 rib.

Work in broken rib pattern until your work measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.

Continue working in broken rib pattern until work measures 35, 37 (39, 41) 43, 45 (47, 49) 51, 53 (55, 60) cms from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.

SHOULDERS

Bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10) 10, 10 (11, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10) 10, 10 (11, 11) sts then work in broken rib pattern until you have 11, 12 (12, 13) 12, 12 (14, 13) 13, 15 (14, 16) sts on your right needle. Put remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Turn and bind off 3 sts, work to end of row.

Turn and bind off the remaining 8, 9 (9, 10) 9, 9 (11, 10) 10, 12 (11, 13) sts.

With right side facing rejoin yarn to the sts on the st holder.

Bind off the first 20, 20 (22, 22) 24, 26 (26, 28) 30, 30 (32, 36) sts, then work the remaining 19, 20 (20, 21) 21, 21 (23, 23) 23, 25 (25, 27) sts in broken rib pattern already established.

Turn and bind off the first 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10) 10, 10 (11, 11) sts, work in broken rib pattern across.

Turn and bind off 3 sts, work to end of row in broken rib pattern.

Bind off the remaining 8, 9 (9, 10) 9, 9 (11, 10) 10, 12 (11, 13) sts.

LEFT FRONT

Cast on 36, 37 (38, 39) 41, 42 (44, 46) 47, 49 (51, 55) sts using the same cast on as the back

Work 4 cms of 1×1 rib.

Work in broken rib pattern until your work measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.

Continue working in broken rib pattern until work measures 32, 34 (36, 39) 39.5, 42.5 (43.5, 45) 47, 48.5 (50, 55) cms from cast on edge ending after completing a right side row.

NECK

Next row – Bind off 8, 8 (9, 9) 10, 10 (10, 11) 12, 12 (10, 12) sts, work to end of row [28, 29 (29, 30) 31, 32 (34, 35) 35, 37 (41, 43) sts]

Decrease 1 sts at the neck edge of the next 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (5, 5) rows. [26, 27 (27, 28) 29, 29 (31, 32) 32, 34 (35, 38) sts]

Decrease 1 sts at neck edge on right side only 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (3, 3) times [24, 25 (25, 26) 27, 27 (29, 30) 30, 32 (33, 33) sts]

Continue in broken rib pattern until work measures 35, 37 (39, 41) 43, 45 (47, 49) 51, 53 (55, 60) cms from cast on edge, ending after completing a wrong side row

SHOULDERS

Bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10) 10, 10 (11, 11) sts, work to end of row

Work the next row without shaping

Bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10) 10, 10 (11, 11) sts, work to end of row

Work the next row without shaping

Bind off remaining 8, 9 (9, 10) 8, 9 (11, 10) 10, 12 (11, 13) sts

RIGHT FRONT

Cast on 36, 37 (38, 39) 41, 42 (44, 46) 47, 49 (51, 55) sts using the same cast on as the back

Work 4 cms of 1×1 rib.

Work in broken rib pattern until your work measures 23, 24 (25.5, 27) 28, 29.5 (30.5, 32) 33, 34 (35.5, 38.5) cm measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.

Continue working in broken rib pattern until work measures 32, 34 (36, 39) 39.5, 42 (43.5, 45) 47, 48.5 (50, 55) cms from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.

NECK

Next row – Bind off 8, 8 (9, 9) 10, 10 (10, 11) 12, 12 (10, 12) sts, work to end of row [28, 29 (29, 30) 31, 32 (34, 35) 35, 37 (41, 43) sts]

Decrease 1 sts at the neck edge of the next 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (5, 5) rows. [26, 27 (27, 28) 29, 29 (31, 32) 32, 34 (36, 38) sts]

Decrease 1 sts at neck edge on right side only 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (3, 3) times [24, 25 (25, 26) 27, 27 (29, 30) 30, 32 (33, 35) sts]

Continue in broken rib pattern until work measures 35, 37 (39, 41) 43, 45 (47, 49) 51, 53 (55, 60) cms from cast on edge, ending after completing a right side row

SHOULDERS

Bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10) 10, 10 (11, 11) sts, work to end of row

Work the next row without shaping

Bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 10)10, 10 (11, 11) sts, work to end of row

Work the next row without shaping

Bind off remaining 8, 9 (9, 10) 9, 9 (11, 10) 10, 12 (11, 13) sts

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

Cast on now 38, 38 (38, 38) 44, 46 (46, 48) 48, 48 (46, 52) sts

Work 4 cms of 1×1 rib.

Work 4 rows of broken rib pattern.

Increase rows – inc 1 st at each end of next and each following 4^th row 6, 9 (10, 10) 6, 7 (11, 8) 11, 15 (17, 23) times, then every 6^th row 4, 3 (3, 4) 7, 7 (5, 8) 7, 5 (4, 1) times to 60, 64 (66, 68) 72, 76 (80, 82) 86, 90 (94, 102) sts.

Continue working in broken rib pattern until your work measures 24, 26.5 (28, 29) 28, 29.5 (31.5, 33) 34.5, 38 (39, 40.5) cms or length desired (I like to make a sweater fit longer by adding extra length to the sleeve so the cuff can be folded over as seen in model images), finishing after completing a wrong side row.

Bind off all sts evenly.

NECK

Join both shoulder seams, using yarn on a tapestry/yarn needle.

With right side facing pick up and knit 8, 8 (9, 9) 10, 10 (10, 11) 12, 12 (10, 12) sts along right from bind off edge, 9, 11 (11, 11) 11, 12 (12, 12) 14, 14 (16, 16) sts up right front of neck, 26, 26 (28, 28) 30, 32 (32, 34) 36, 36 (38, 42) sts from back neck, 9, 11 (11, 11) 11, 12 (12, 12) 14, 14 (16, 16) sts up left front and side of neck, 8, 8 (9, 9) 10, 10 (10, 11) 12, 12 (10, 12) sts along left from bind off edge. [60, 64 (68, 68) 72, 76 (76, 80) 88, 88 (90, 98) sts]

Work 10, 10 (10, 10) 13, 13 (13, 13) 15, 15 (15, 15) cms of 1×1 rib.

Bind off all sts in pattern. Fold over (toward the wrong side) the neck and sew it down.

FRONT BANDS (REPEAT FOR BOTH BANDS)

Pick up 1 stitch for each row along front and neck using the size 6 circular needle.

Cast on 7 sts, turn (wrong side now facing) work 1×1 ribbing for 6sts starting with purl, purl together the last cast on band stitch with the first picked up stitch. Turn, knit together the next picked up stitch with the first cast on band stitch. Continue in this pattern until all picked up stitches have been worked.

I have a short on youtube to show I how I did this BUT I am left handed so it may appear backwards to you. It will give you a better idea of how to do this if you haven’t made an applied band though. You can find it here.

Bind off in established rib pattern, leaving a long enough tail to sew the band down the length of the front and neck. (60-90cms)

FINISHING

Sew the sleeves on, side seams and sleeve seams. I prefer to use the mattress stitch because it almost appears seamless. Weave in all ends. Sew the separating zipper on. I like to use blocking wires to hold my work flat as I baste my zipper on. It helps keep the zipper from being wavy.

Abbreviations

K – knit                                                P – purl

PM – place marker                                INC – increase

K2tog -knit 2 stitches together             YO – yarn over

ST – stitch                                           STS – stitches

SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together

Download Youth Judah Zipped Cardigan PDF

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