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One of the greatest joys in my knitting journey has been creating delicate and adorable photo props for newborns. Among my favorites is the Aaron Bonnet, a timeless piece that perfectly complements the serene beauty of a sleeping baby. Today, I want to share my experience knitting this lovely bonnet and offer some tips on how to substitute the yarn now that the original choice has been discontinued.
The Magic of the Aaron Bonnet
The Aaron Bonnet holds a special place in my heart. Its simple yet elegant design, featuring a classic bonnet shape with a gentle, textured pattern, makes it an ideal choice for newborn photo sessions. The delicate ties allow for a secure fit, ensuring that the bonnet stays in place while adding an extra touch of charm.
I remember the first time I knitted the Aaron Bonnet. I was inspired by its timeless beauty and the way it effortlessly added a touch of vintage charm to newborn photography. The pattern was straightforward, yet the end result was stunning—a perfect blend of simplicity and elegance.
The Original Yarn: A Fond Farewell
The original yarn recommended for the Aaron Bonnet pattern was a dream to work with. Its softness and subtle sheen made it ideal for delicate baby knits. Unfortunately, as with many beloved yarns, it was eventually discontinued. For those of us who have fallen in love with the pattern, finding a suitable substitute became a new adventure.
Discovering Malabrigo Susurro
After much research and experimentation, I found the perfect substitute: Malabrigo Susurro. This yarn is a delightful blend of silk, linen, and merino wool, offering a luxurious feel that is both soft and breathable—just what you want for a newborn’s delicate skin. The blend of fibers also gives the yarn a beautiful drape and a subtle sheen, similar to the original yarn used for the Aaron Bonnet.
Malabrigo Susurro comes in a range of stunning colors, allowing you to choose the perfect shade for your photo prop. I personally love the soft pastels for newborn knits, but the rich, vibrant hues are equally captivating.
Knitting with Malabrigo Susurro
One of the first things I noticed when knitting with Malabrigo Susurro was its incredible softness. The yarn glides smoothly over the needles, making the knitting process a joy. The silk and linen fibers provide strength and durability, while the merino wool adds that essential touch of warmth and softness.
As I worked through the Aaron Bonnet pattern with Susurro, I found that the yarn showcased the textured stitches beautifully. The subtle sheen added an extra dimension to the finished piece, enhancing its overall appeal. The resulting bonnet was not only gorgeous but also wonderfully comfortable for a newborn to wear.
Tips for Knitting the Aaron Bonnet with Malabrigo Susurro
Here are a few tips to ensure your Aaron Bonnet turns out perfectly when using Malabrigo Susurro:
- Gauge Check: As with any yarn substitution, it’s essential to check your gauge. Knit a swatch before starting the bonnet to ensure that your stitches per inch match the pattern’s requirements. This will help you achieve the correct size and fit.
- Yarn Handling: Susurro is a delicate yarn, so handle it with care. Avoid excessive tension and try to knit with a relaxed grip. This will help maintain the yarn’s integrity and prevent any breakage.
- Blocking: Blocking is crucial to open up the stitches and enhance the texture of your bonnet. Gently soak your finished piece in lukewarm water, reshape it, and let it dry flat. This will give your bonnet a polished, professional look.
- Color Choice: While all the colors of Susurro are beautiful, consider the overall theme of your newborn photoshoot. Soft, neutral tones often work best for a timeless, classic look, while brighter colors can add a fun, modern twist.
The Joy of Creating
Knitting the Aaron Bonnet with Malabrigo Susurro has been a rewarding experience. Not only did I find a worthy substitute for the discontinued yarn, but I also fell in love with the process all over again. There’s something incredibly satisfying about creating a beautiful, handmade piece that will be cherished in newborn photos for years to come.
The Aaron Bonnet is more than just a photo prop; it’s a labor of love. Each stitch is a testament to the care and attention we put into our craft, and the finished product is a beautiful reminder of the joy and warmth that handmade items bring to our lives.
Sharing the Love
If you’re a fellow knitter who enjoys creating newborn photo props, I encourage you to give the Aaron Bonnet a try with Malabrigo Susurro. The pattern is straightforward, making it suitable for knitters of all skill levels, and the end result is truly stunning. Plus, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of seeing your handmade creation featured in a beautiful newborn photo.
To those who have yet to experience the joy of knitting for newborns, I invite you to dive in. There’s a special kind of magic in creating something so delicate and meaningful. The Aaron Bonnet, with its timeless charm and modern twist, is the perfect project to start with.
Conclusion
In the world of knitting, the journey is just as important as the destination. Crafting the Aaron Bonnet with Malabrigo Susurro has been a delightful adventure, one that has allowed me to create a cherished photo prop while exploring a new and wonderful yarn. Whether you’re an experienced knitter or just starting out, I hope this blog post inspires you to pick up your needles and create something beautiful. Happy knitting!
Materials and Info
MATERIALS: appx 80-160yds of dk (3) yarn (I used malabrigo rastita), Size 6 (4mm) needles, stitch markers, yarn needle
Gauge: appx 5sts/inch Gauge is very important!
Sizes (appx finished head circumference) : newborn (13ins), 0-3mths (14 ins), 3-6mths (15ins), 6-12mths (16ins), 1-3yrs (17ins)
Stitch Key
K – knit
p – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
Aaron Bonnet Pattern
NEWBORN
Cast on 176sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – [k1, p1] for 60sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for 56sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit across
Row 3 – [p1, k1] across
Row 4 – knit across
Row 5 – [k1, p1] across
Continue working rows 2-5 until your work measures appx 1in from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
Bind off row – Bind off LOOSELY to the first marker, knit to next marker (leaving these stitches on your needle to be picked up again in the next row), bind off LOOSELY remaining stitches. In the bind off process you will remove all markers. Cut yarn.
Join yarn and continue working rows 2-5 starting with a wrong side row (row 3 or 5) until your work measures appx 4ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (47sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (38sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (29sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (20sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (11sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
0-3 MONTHS
Cast on 182sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – [k1, p1] for 60sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for 62sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit across
Row 3 – [p1, k1] across
Row 4 – knit across
Row 5 – [k1, p1] across
Continue working rows 2-5 until your work measures appx 1in from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
Bind off row – Bind off LOOSELY to the first marker, knit to next marker (leaving these stitches on your needle to be picked up again in the next row), bind off LOOSELY remaining stitches. In the bind off process you will remove all markers. Cut yarn.
Join yarn and continue working rows 2-5 starting with a wrong side row (row 3 or 5) until your work measures appx 4.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
3-6 MONTHS
Cast on 188sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – [k1, p1] for 60sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for 68sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit across
Row 3 – [p1, k1] across
Row 4 – knit across
Row 5 – [k1, p1] across
Continue working rows 2-5 until your work measures appx 1in from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
Bind off row – Bind off LOOSELY to the first marker, knit to next marker (leaving these stitches on your needle to be picked up again in the next row), bind off LOOSELY remaining stitches. In the bind off process you will remove all markers. Cut yarn.
Join yarn and continue working rows 2-5 starting with a wrong side row (row 3 or 5) until your work measures appx 5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (57sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (46sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (35sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (24sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (13sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
6-12 MONTHS
Cast on 192sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – [k1, p1] for 60sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for 72sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit across
Row 3 – [p1, k1] across
Row 4 – knit across
Row 5 – [k1, p1] across
Continue working rows 2-5 until your work measures appx 1in from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
Bind off row – Bind off LOOSELY to the first marker, knit to next marker (leaving these stitches on your needle to be picked up again in the next row), bind off LOOSELY remaining stitches. In the bind off process you will remove all markers. Cut yarn.
Join yarn and continue working rows 2-5 starting with a wrong side row (row 3 or 5) until your work measures appx 5.5ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
DECREASES
Row 1 – k1 [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (62sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
TODDLER
Cast on 198sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – [k1, p1] for 60sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for 78sts, place marker, [k1, p1] for the remaining 60sts.
Row 2 (right side) – knit across
Row 3 – [p1, k1] across
Row 4 – knit across
Row 5 – [k1, p1] across
Continue working rows 2-5 until your work measures appx 1in from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
Bind off row – Bind off LOOSELY to the first marker, knit to next marker (leaving these stitches on your needle to be picked up again in the next row), bind off LOOSELY remaining stitches. In the bind off process you will remove all markers. Cut yarn.
Join yarn and continue working rows 2-5 starting with a wrong side row (row 3 or 5) until your work measures appx 6ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row (a row 3 or 5).
DECREASES
Row 1 – [k2tog, k11] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (72sts) Place markers on both ends of this row and leave them on this row.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1 [k2tog, k5] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (62sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1 [k2tog, k4] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (52sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1 [k2tog, k3] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (42sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1 [k2tog, k2] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (32sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1 [k2tog, k1] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (22sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1 [k2tog] repeat [to] across to last st, k1 (12sts)
Do not bind off. Cut yarn leaving appx -10ins. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and cinch the back tight. Using this end sew the crown together to your stitch markers. (I like to use the mattress stitch since it is nearly invisible).
Aaron Bonnet PDF
