Looking for a free sweater knitting pattern for kids that’s both comfy and stylish? The Child Anna Cardigan is the perfect oversized, cozy knit your little one will love! This chunky-weight V-neck cardigan features a beautiful diamond knit/purl panel, roomy pockets, and a relaxed fit that makes it great for layering. Worked flat from the bottom up with drop sleeves, it’s a fun and rewarding project that knits up quickly! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to explore our full collection of free sweater knitting patterns here!
A Chunky & Comfy Free Sweater Knitting Pattern for Kids
When I set out to design the Child Anna Cardigan, I had one goal in mind: a sweater my kids would actually want to wear. You know how kids can be—they either love something so much they refuse to take it off, or it ends up at the bottom of the closet never to be seen again. This cardigan was designed with the first scenario in mind!
Knit with Premier Yarns Elle by Me Charlotte (affiliate link) on US size 9 and 10 needles, this sweater has that perfectly cozy, slightly oversized feel. It’s long enough to keep little backs warm on chilly days, and the drop sleeves make it easy to layer over anything from dresses to t-shirts. Plus, let’s talk about the pockets—because every good kid’s sweater needs a place to stash treasures, right?
Knitting a Child-Friendly Sweater That’s Actually Fun to Make
I know some knitters shy away from sweaters because they can feel like a big commitment, but trust me—this free sweater knitting pattern for kids is anything but overwhelming. Since it’s worked flat from the bottom up, there’s no complicated shaping or seamless construction to worry about. The back, two fronts, and sleeves are knit separately and then seamed together for a structured yet relaxed fit.
And can we take a moment to appreciate the diamond knit/purl panel? It’s a simple detail, but it adds so much texture and interest to the sweater. If you love meditative knitting with just enough variety to keep things engaging, this design is right up your alley.
Let’s Talk About Yarn: Premier Yarns Elle by Me Charlotte (Affiliate Link)
Choosing the right yarn for a sweater is everything, and I’m so happy with how Premier Yarns Elle by Me Charlotte (affiliate link) worked up for this design. It’s a chunky-weight yarn, which means this project knits up fast (because let’s be real, sometimes you need a quick win).
The softness factor is high, which is key when knitting for kids—there’s nothing worse than spending hours on a sweater only for it to get rejected because it’s “too itchy.” This yarn is plush and smooth, and it comes in a range of beautiful colors so you can customize your free sweater knitting pattern for kids to match any little wardrobe.
Pockets: Because Kids Love Them
I don’t know about your kids, but mine will only wear a sweater if it has pockets. Maybe it’s for keeping hands warm, maybe it’s for holding tiny treasures, or maybe it’s just because they like knowing they have pockets (even if they never use them). Whatever the reason, pockets were a must-have for the Child Anna Cardigan.
The construction is simple—stitched onto the front panels after knitting—so if you’re new to adding pockets, don’t worry. It’s an easy step, and once you see how much your little one loves them, you’ll be adding pockets to everything!
Styling the Child Anna Cardigan
One of my favorite things about this free sweater knitting pattern for kids is how versatile it is. The slightly oversized fit makes it easy to throw over just about anything, which means it’s a great transitional piece for all seasons.
Here are a few ways my kids have worn theirs:
- Casual & Cozy: Over leggings and a t-shirt for an effortless, comfy outfit.
- Layered Up: With a long-sleeve shirt and jeans for extra warmth on chilly days.
- Dressed Up: Over a little dress and tights for a cute, polished look.
Since it’s knit in a chunky yarn, it’s warm enough to function as a light jacket in the fall but also soft and comfy enough to be worn indoors in winter.
Knitting a Sweater That Grows with Them
One of the things I always try to keep in mind when designing a free sweater knitting pattern for kids is longevity. Kids grow fast, so I like to make sure their handknits last longer than a single season. The oversized fit of the Child Anna Cardigan means it can be worn a little big at first and still fit comfortably as they grow.
And because the drop sleeves and V-neck give it a relaxed shape, it doesn’t feel too snug even if they wear it for a couple of years. Plus, the classic design makes it a great hand-me-down!
Why You’ll Love This Free Sweater Knitting Pattern for Kids
If you’re still on the fence about knitting a sweater for a little one in your life, here’s why you should give this pattern a try:
✔ Chunky-weight yarn means quick progress – no endless knitting!
✔ Simple bottom-up construction – easy to follow, even if you’re new to sweaters.
✔ Fun textured panel – keeps it interesting without being complicated.
✔ Oversized and cozy – perfect for layering and growing into.
✔ Pockets! – because every good sweater needs them.
There’s something so rewarding about knitting a sweater that gets worn again and again, and I think the Child Anna Cardigan is going to be one of those knits that stays in rotation all season long.
Ready to Cast On?
If you’re excited to knit this free sweater knitting pattern for kids, you can find the full pattern below. Grab your Premier Yarns Elle by Me Charlotte (affiliate link) and your needles, and let’s get started!
Have you knit a sweater for a little one before? What’s your go-to kid-friendly knitting project? Let me know in the comments—I love hearing about what’s on your needles!
Materials and Info
Size: (0-3m, 3-6m) 6-12m, 12m (18m, 24m), 3/4y, 5/6y (7/8y, 9/10y) 11/12y, 13y/14y
Materials: Approximately (2, 2) 2, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 4) 4, 4 (5, 5) 6, 6 (6, 6) skeins of Premier Yarns Elle By Me Charlotte yarn (196yds/150g), (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 8 (8, 9) 9, 9 (10, 10) 5/8in buttons, yarn needle, stitch markers
Needle Size: 9(US) 5.5mm circular needles, 10(US) 6mm circular
Gauge (tension): 18sts & 26 rows to make 10cm square, using size 10(US) 6mm needles working in stockinette stitch
Chest Measurement: (41, 44) 47, 50 (52, 54) 57, 61 (66, 72) 78, 84 cms or (16, 17.25)18.5, 19.5 (20.5, 21) 22.5,24, (26, 28.25) 30.75, 33 ins
METHOD
This pattern is for a drop sleeve style that is worked flat from the bottom up with 10cm of ease. Model is wearing an 9/10y size Anna Cardigan. If you are a left-handed knitter there are notations to help you throughout.
LEAH STITCH PATTERN
Row 1 – [k2, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, k2, p1, k2
Row 2 – [p2, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, p2, k1, p2
Row 3 – [k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k2] across to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1,k1
Row 4 – [p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2] across to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 5 – [p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k2] across to last 5sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 6 – [, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1,p2, k1, p2] across to last 5sts, , k1, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row 7 – [k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k2] across to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1,k1
Row 8 – [p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2] across to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 9 – [k2, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, k2, p1, k2
Row 10 – [p2, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, p2, k1, p2
Row 11 – [k2, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1] across to last 5sts, k2, p1, k2
Row 12 – [p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, p2, k1, p2
Child Anna Cardigan
BACK
Cast on (49, 51) 55, 57 (59, 61) 63, 67 (71, 77) 83, 87 sts using the smaller needles.
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1.25, (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size needles.
Work as follows: k[(12, 13) 15, 16 (17, 18) 19, 21 (23, 26) 29, 31] pm, work 25 sts in Leah Stitch Pattern, k[(12, 13) 15, 16 (17, 18) 19, 21 (23, 26) 29, 31] until your work measures (19, 20) 22.5, 24.5 (28.5, 30) 31.5, 37 (40, 44.5) 47.5, 52.5 cm or (7.5, 8 ) 9, 9.5 (11.25, 11.5) 12.5, 14.5 (15.75, 17.5) 18.75, 20.75 ins measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.
Continue working in pattern until work measures (28, 30) 33, 36 (39, 41) 44, 50.5 (54.5, 61) 64.5, 71.5 cms or (11, 12) 12.5, 14.25 (15.5, 16.25) 17.5, 20 (21.5, 24) 25.5, 28.25 ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.
SHOULDERS
18m thru 13/14y sizes only
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
All sizes
Bind off (0, 0) 0, 0 (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7sts at the beginning of the next row then work until (15, 15) 17, 17 (8, 8) 9, 10 (9, 11) 11, 12 sts are on the right needle (if you knit left-handed this is your left needle) put remaining sts on a stitch holder or spare yarn.
Turn and bind off 3 sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the sts on the stitch holder/spare yarn, bind off (19, 21) 21, 23 (23, 25) 25, 27 (29, 31) 33, 35 sts, work remaining (15, 15) 17, 17 (13, 13) 14, 15 (15, 17) 18, 19 sts.
Bind off (0, 0) 0, 0 (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off 3 sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
LEFT FRONT (if you knit left-handed this is your right front)
Cast on (23, 24) 26, 27 (28, 29) 30, 32 (34, 37) 40, 42 sts using smaller needle
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.
Work as follows: k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 7, 8 (9, 11) 12, 13] pm, work 15sts in Leah Stitch Pattern, k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11) 13, 14] until your work measures: (10, 10) 11, 11.5 (12.5, 12.5) 14.5, 15 (17, 17) 17, 19 cms or (4, 4) 4.25, 4.5 (5, 5) 5.75, 6 (6.75, 6.75) 6.75, 7.5ins
k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10] pm, work (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts in k1p1 ribbing, k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11]
Work the above for (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 cms or (.5, .5) .5, 5 (.75, .75) .75, .75 (.75, 1) 1, 1 ins ending after completing a wrong side row.
k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10] pm, bind of (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21) sts in pattern, k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11]
Set this part aside.
INNER POCKET
Cast on (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts
Work in stockinette st for (8, 8) 9, 9 (10, 10) 12, 12 (14, 14) 14, 16 cms or (3.25, 3.25) 3.5, 3.5 (4, 4) 4.75, 4.75 (5.5, 5.5) 5.5, 6.5 ins ending after completing a right side row.
Now you will combine the pocket to the front piece as follows:
P[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11] from front piece, p[(15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17) 19 (19, 19) 21, 21] sts from inner pocket, p[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10] remaining sts from front piece.
FRONT BODY
Now work as follows: k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 7, 8 (9, 11) 12, 13] pm,
work 15sts in Leah Stitch Pattern, k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11) 13, 14] until your work measures: (19, 20) 22.5, 24.5 (28.5, 30) 31.5, 37 (40, 44.5) 47.5, 52.5cm or (7.5, 8 ) 9, 9.5 (11.25, 11.5) 12.5, 14.5 (15.75, 17.5) 18.75, 20.75 ins
measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.
Continue working in pattern until work measures (20, 21.5) 24, 26.5 (31, 33) 35.5, 41 (44.5, 50.5) 53.5, 59.5 cms or (8, 8.5) 9.5, 10.5 (12.25, 13) 14, 16.25 (17.5, 20) 21.25, 23.5 ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.
NECK
Decrease 1 sts on neck edge of next (5, 5) 5, 5 (9, 11) 9, 9 (11, 11) 11, 11 rows
Then on following right side rows only (6, 7) 7, 8 (4, 3) 5, 6 (5, 6) 7, 8 times
[(12, 12) 14, 14 (15, 15) 16, 17 (18, 20) 22, 23 sts remaining] ending after completing a wrong side row
SHOULDERS
Sizes 18m thru 13/14y only
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts, work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
All sizes
Bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
RIGHT FRONT (if you knit left-handed this is your left front)
Cast on (23, 24) 26, 27 (28, 29) 30, 32 (34, 37) 40, 42 sts using smaller needle
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.
Work as follows: k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11) 13, 14] pm, work 15sts in Leah Stitch Pattern, k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 7, 8 (9, 11) 12, 13] until your work measures: (10, 10) 11, 11.5 (12.5, 12.5) 14.5, 15 (17, 17) 17, 19 cms or (4, 4) 4.25, 4.5 (5, 5) 5.75, 6 (6.75, 6.75) 6.75, 7.5ins
k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11] pm, work (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts in k1p1 ribbing, k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10]
Work the above for (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 cms or (.5, .5) .5, 5 (.75, .75) .75, .75 (.75, 1) 1, 1 ins ending after completing a wrong side row.
k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11] pm, bind of (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts in pattern, k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10]
Set this part aside.
INNER POCKET
Cast on (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts
Work in stockinette st for (8, 8) 9, 9 (10, 10) 12, 12 (14, 14) 14, 16 cms or (3.25, 3.25) 3.5, 3.5 (4, 4) 4.75, 4.75 (5.5, 5.5) 5.5, 6.5 ins ending after completing a right side row.
Now you will combine the pocket to the front piece as follows:
P[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10] from front piece, p[(15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21] sts from inner pocket, p[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11] remaining sts from front piece.
FRONT BODY
Now work as follows: k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11) 13, 14] pm, work 15sts in Leah Stitch Pattern, k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 7, 8 (9, 11) 12, 13] until your work measures: (19, 20) 22.5, 24.5 (28.5, 30) 31.5, 37 (40, 44.5) 47.5, 52.5cm or (7.5, 8 ) 9, 9.5 (11.25, 11.5) 12.5, 14.5 (15.75, 17.5) 18.75, 20.75 ins
measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.
Continue working in pattern until work measures (20, 21.5) 24, 26.5 (31, 33) 35.5, 41 (44.5, 50.5) 53.5, 59.5 cms or (8, 8.5) 9.5, 10.5 (12.25, 13) 14, 16.25 (17.5, 20) 21.25, 23.5 ins from cast on edge ending after completing a wrong side row.
NECK
Decrease 1 sts on neck edge of next (5, 5) 5, 5 (9, 11) 9, 9 (11, 11) 11, 11 rows
Then on following right side rows only (6, 7) 7, 8 (4, 3) 5, 6 (5, 6) 7, 8 times
[(12, 12) 14, 14 (15, 15) 16, 17 (18, 20) 22, 23 sts remaining] ending after completing a right-side row.
SHOULDERS
Sizes 18m thru 13/14y only
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts, work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
All sizes
Bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
Cast on now (24, 24) 26, 26 (28, 28) 34, 36 (36, 38) 38, 40 sts on smaller needles and join in the round and place beginning of round marker.
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1 1) 1, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles
Work (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (4, 4) 4, 4 rows in stocknette st
Next row:
inc 1 sts on each side every right side row (2, 4) 2, 4 (2, 2) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 times,
Then inc 1 sts on each side every 4th row (3, 3) 5, 5 (7, 8) 5, 4 (11, 10) 16, 16 times,
Then inc 1 sts on each side every 6th row (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 4, 6 (2, 4) 1, 2 times,
[(34, 38) 40, 44 (46, 48) 52, 56 (62, 66) 72, 76 sts]
Continue working in damask stitch pattern until work measures (11.5, 13.5) 15.5, 17.5 (19, 20.5) 26.5, 29 (29.5, 33) 38, 40.5 cms or (4.5, 5.25) 6, 7 (7.5, 8) 10.5, 11.5 (11.75, 13) 15, 16 ins from cast on edge. Bind of all stitches leaving a long enough tail to sew the sleeve on.
FRONT RIB EDGE
With right side facing, pick up 2sts for each 3 rows across front up to the back neck, then pick up 1st for each st on the back, then pick up 2sts for each 3 rows across front down to the bottom.
Work 3 rows in k1p1 ribbing.
Now mark your button placement: on the right side place a marker at 2cms from the bottom then place (3, 3) 4, 4 (5, 5) 5, 6 (7, 8) 8, 9 more buttonhole markers every (6, 6.5) 5.5, 6 (5.5, 6) 6.5, 6.5 (6, 6) 6.5, 6.5 cms or (2.5, 2.75) 2.25, 2.5 (2.25, 2.5) 2.75, 2.75 (2.5, 2.5) 2.75, 2.75 ins
Work this buttonhole row as follows:
[Work in k1p1 ribbing to marker, k2tog, yo] repeat [to] across until all buttonholes have been worked, work in k1p1ribbing until end of row.
Work 3 more rows in k1p1 ribbing.
Bind off in pattern.
FINISHING
Sew the sleeves on, side seams and sleeve seams. I prefer to use the mattress stitch because it almost appears seamless. Weave in all ends. Sew the buttons on along the left front edge across from the buttonholes
ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
P – purl
PM – place marker
SM – slip marker
K2tog -knit 2 stitches together
YO – yarn over
SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together
M1R – Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit this strand
M1L – Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then knit this strand through the back loop
Child Anna Cardigan PDF
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