This Free Sweater Knitting Pattern for Kids: The Child Anna Cardigan is a cozy, oversized design that fits right in with your favorite free sweater knitting patterns.
If you’ve ever struggled to find a kid-friendly sweater that’s both practical and actually gets worn, this one solves that problem. The relaxed fit, chunky yarn, and simple construction make it approachable while still giving you a finished piece that looks polished and put-together. This free sweater knitting pattern for kids is worked flat from the bottom up with drop sleeves, making it ideal if you prefer straightforward knitting over complicated shaping.
If you want a sweater that knits up quickly, feels soft, and works for everyday wear, this one checks every box. The texture adds interest without slowing you down, and the pockets make it a favorite the second it’s worn. It’s the kind of project that feels manageable and rewarding from start to finish.
This design is all about ease—easy to knit, easy to wear, and easy to reach for again and again.
What Materials Do You Need for This Free Sweater Knitting Pattern for Kids?
For this free sweater knitting pattern for kids, I used Premier Yarns Elle by Me Charlotte, which gives the cardigan that soft, chunky feel kids love. It’s a great choice when you want something warm without feeling stiff, and the thickness means you’ll see progress quickly. You’ll also need US size 9 and 10 circular needles, buttons, stitch markers, and a yarn needle for finishing.
The yarn really makes a difference here. A chunky option like this helps the cardigan hold its shape while still feeling comfortable for everyday wear. It’s especially nice for kids who are picky about texture since it stays soft even after lots of use.
Once you have your materials ready, you’ll be set up for a smooth, enjoyable knitting process.
How Is This Free Sweater Knitting Pattern for Kids Constructed?
This free sweater knitting pattern for kids is worked flat from the bottom up in separate pieces, which keeps everything simple and easy to manage. You’ll knit the back, two front panels, and sleeves, then seam them together for a structured but relaxed fit. The drop sleeve design adds to that laid-back shape and makes layering effortless.
The diamond knit/purl panel is what really brings this cardigan to life. It adds texture without being complicated, so you get that detailed look without needing advanced techniques. And if you’ve been hesitant to try sweater knitting, this is a great place to start.
The pockets are added as you go and finished neatly into the front panels, giving the cardigan a practical touch that kids genuinely love.
Looking for More Free Sweater Knitting Patterns for Kids?
If you enjoy this pattern, there are plenty of other free sweater knitting patterns for kids to explore:
• Youth Damask Cardigan
• Youth Mary Cardigan
• Youth September Cardigan
• Youth Rosemary Cardigan
• Youth Wheat Cardigan
Each of these has its own style, from textured knits to simple everyday layers, so you can keep building a handmade wardrobe your kids will actually wear.
The Child Anna Cardigan fits right alongside these as a go-to layering piece. It’s simple enough to knit more than once and versatile enough to work with just about anything in your child’s closet.
Child Anna Cardigan Pattern
Size: (0-3m, 3-6m) 6-12m, 12m (18m, 24m), 3/4y, 5/6y (7/8y, 9/10y) 11/12y, 13y/14y
Materials: Approximately (2, 2) 2, 3 (3, 3), 3, 3 (3, 4), 4, 4 skeins of Premier Yarns Elle By Me Charlotte, 196 yds / 180 m per 150 g; (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6), 6, 7 (8, 9), 9, 10 buttons measuring ⅝ in / approximately 1.5 cm; tapestry needle; stitch markers; and spare needles or stitch holders.
Needle Size: 9(US) 5.5mm circular needles, 10(US) 6mm circular
Gauge (tension): 18 sts and 26 rows per 4 × 4 in / 10 × 10 cm in stockinette stitch after blocking, using US 10 (6 mm) needles.
To fit chest circumference: (41, 44) 47, 50 (52, 54), 57, 61 (66, 72), 78, 84 cm / (16¼, 17¼) 18½, 19¾ (20½, 21¼), 22½, 24 (26, 28¼), 30¾, 33 in.
METHOD
This cardigan is worked flat from the bottom up with drop shoulders and approximately 4 in / 10 cm of positive ease. The fronts include inset pockets. The sleeves are worked flat and sewn into the armholes. The model wears the 9/10-year size.
ANNA STITCH PATTERN
Row 1 – [k2, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, k2, p1, k2
Row 2 – [p2, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p1] to the last 5 sts, p2, k1, p2.
Row 3 – [k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k2] across to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1,k1
Row 4 – [p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2] across to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 5 – [p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k2] across to last 5sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 6 – [k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2] to the last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 7 – [k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k2] across to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1,k1
Row 8 – [p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2] across to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 9 – [k2, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, k2, p1, k2
Row 10 – [p2, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p1] to the last 5 sts, p2, k1, p2.
Row 11 – [k2, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1] across to last 5sts, k2, p1, k2
Row 12 – [p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1] across to last 5 sts, p2, k1, p2
The stitch pattern is worked over a multiple of 10 stitches plus 5. Odd-numbered rows are RS rows; even-numbered rows are WS rows. Repeat Rows 1–12.
BACK
Cast on (49, 51) 55, 57 (59, 61) 63, 67 (71, 77) 83, 87 sts using the smaller needles.
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1.25, (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size needles.
Next row (RS): K(12, 13) 15, 16 (17, 18), 19, 21 (23, 26), 29, 31, pm, work Row 1 of the Anna Stitch Pattern over 25 sts, pm, knit to the end.
Continue the Anna Stitch Pattern between the markers, advancing one pattern row on every row. Work all stitches outside the markers in stockinette stitch: knit on RS rows and purl on WS rows.
Continue until the back measures (19, 20) 22.5, 24.5 (28.5, 30), 31.5, 37 (40, 44.5), 47.5, 52.5 cm / (7½, 7¾) 8¾, 9¾ (11¼, 11¾), 12½, 14½ (15¾, 17½), 18¾, 20¾ in from the cast-on edge. Place a removable marker at each edge to mark the bottom of the armhole.
Continue in the established pattern until the back measures (28, 30) 33, 36 (39, 41), 44, 50.5 (54.5, 61), 64.5, 71.5 cm / (11, 11¾) 13, 14¼ (15¼, 16¼), 17¼, 20 (21½, 24), 25½, 28¼ in from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
SHOULDERS
18m thru 13/14y sizes only
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
All sizes
Bind off (0, 0) 0, 0 (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7sts at the beginning of the next row then work until (15, 15) 17, 17 (8, 8) 9, 10 (9, 11) 11, 12 sts are on the right needle (if you knit left-handed this is your left needle) put remaining sts on a stitch holder or spare yarn.
Turn and bind off 3 sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the sts on the stitch holder/spare yarn, bind off (19, 21) 21, 23 (23, 25) 25, 27 (29, 31) 33, 35 sts, work remaining (15, 15) 17, 17 (13, 13) 14, 15 (15, 17) 18, 19 sts.
Bind off (0, 0) 0, 0 (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off 3 sts, work to the end of the row.
Turn and bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
LEFT FRONT (if you knit left-handed this is your right front)
Cast on (23, 24) 26, 27 (28, 29) 30, 32 (34, 37) 40, 42 sts using smaller needle
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.
Next row (RS): K(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7), 7, 8 (9, 11), 12, 13, pm, work Row 1 of the Anna Stitch Pattern over 15 sts, pm, knit to the end.
Continue the Anna Stitch Pattern between the markers, advancing one pattern row on every row. Work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch until your work measures: (10, 10) 11, 11.5 (12.5, 12.5) 14.5, 15 (17, 17) 17, 19 cms or (4, 4) 4.25, 4.5 (5, 5) 5.75, 6 (6.75, 6.75) 6.75, 7.5ins
Work the first (4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7), 6, 7 (7, 9), 9, 10 sts in stockinette stitch, the next (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15), 17, 17 (19, 19), 21, 21 sts in 1×1 ribbing, and the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch.
Continue until the pocket ribbing measures (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (2, 2), 2, 2 (2, 2.5), 2.5, 2.5 cm / (½, ½) ½, ½ (¾, ¾), ¾, ¾ (¾, 1), 1, 1 in, ending after a WS row.
Next row (RS): Knit (4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7), 6, 7 (7, 9), 9, 10 sts. Bind off the next (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15), 17, 17 (19, 19), 21, 21 sts in ribbing, leaving the preceding flank stitches untouched.
The first stitch of the final flank is already worked and remains on the working needle after the bind-off. Knit the remaining (3, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6), 6, 7 (7, 8), 9, 10 sts. Set this piece aside.
Set this part aside.
INNER POCKET
Cast on (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts
Work in stockinette stitch until the lining measures (8, 8) 9, 9 (10, 10), 12, 12 (14, 14), 14, 16 cm / (3¼, 3¼) 3½, 3½ (4, 4), 4¾, 4¾ (5½, 5½), 5½, 6¼ in, ending after a RS row. Leave all stitches live.
Joining row (WS): Purl (4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7), 7, 8 (8, 9), 10, 11 sts from the front, purl the (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15), 17, 17 (19, 19), 21, 21 live lining sts, then purl the remaining (4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7), 6, 7 (7, 9), 9, 10 front sts.
Keep the lining behind the cardigan front, with its stockinette RS facing the WS of the front.
[(23, 24) 26, 27 (28, 29), 30, 32 (34, 37), 40, 42 sts]
FRONT BODY
Resume the 15-stitch Anna panel in its original position, working the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. Reposition the panel markers if necessary. Keep track of the pattern-row sequence so the panel resumes consistently above the pocket until your work measures: (19, 20) 22.5, 24.5 (28.5, 30) 31.5, 37 (40, 44.5) 47.5, 52.5cm or (7.5, 8 ) 9, 9.5 (11.25, 11.5) 12.5, 14.5 (15.75, 17.5) 18.75, 20.75 ins
measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.
Continue until the front measures (20, 21.5) 24, 26.5 (31, 33), 35.5, 41 (44.5, 50.5), 53.5, 59.5 cm / (7¾, 8½) 9½, 10½ (12¼, 13), 14, 16¼ (17½, 20), 21, 23½ in from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
NECK
Decrease 1 sts on neck edge of next (5, 5) 5, 5 (9, 11) 9, 9 (11, 11) 11, 11 rows
Then on following right side rows only (6, 7) 7, 8 (4, 3) 5, 6 (5, 6) 7, 8 times
[(12, 12) 14, 14 (15, 15) 16, 17 (18, 20) 22, 23 sts remaining]. Continue without further neck decreases until the front measures the same length as the back immediately before its shoulder shaping: (28, 30) 33, 36 (39, 41), 44, 50.5 (54.5, 61), 64.5, 71.5 cm / (11, 11¾) 13, 14¼ (15¼, 16¼), 17¼, 20 (21½, 24), 25½, 28¼ in from the cast-on edge. End after a WS row.
SHOULDERS
Sizes 18m thru 13/14y only
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts, work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
All sizes
Bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 sts
RIGHT FRONT (if you knit left-handed this is your left front)
Cast on (23, 24) 26, 27 (28, 29) 30, 32 (34, 37) 40, 42 sts using smaller needle
Work (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 cms or (.75, .75) .75, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 ins of (k1, p1) rib.
Switch to larger size circular needles.
Next row (RS): K(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7), 8, 9 (10, 11), 13, 14, pm, work Row 1 of the Anna Stitch Pattern over 15 sts, pm, knit to the end.
Continue the Anna Stitch Pattern between the markers, advancing one pattern row on every row. Work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch until your work measures: (10, 10) 11, 11.5 (12.5, 12.5) 14.5, 15 (17, 17) 17, 19 cms or (4, 4) 4.25, 4.5 (5, 5) 5.75, 6 (6.75, 6.75) 6.75, 7.5ins
Work the first (4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7), 7, 8 (8, 9), 10, 11 sts in stockinette stitch, the next (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15), 17, 17 (19, 19), 21, 21 sts in 1×1 ribbing, and the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch.
Continue until the pocket ribbing measures (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (2, 2), 2, 2 (2, 2.5), 2.5, 2.5 cm / (½, ½) ½, ½ (¾, ¾), ¾, ¾ (¾, 1), 1, 1 in, ending after a WS row.
Next row (RS): Knit (4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7), 7, 8 (8, 9), 10, 11 sts. Bind off the next (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15), 17, 17 (19, 19), 21, 21 sts in ribbing, leaving the preceding flank stitches untouched.
The first stitch of the final flank is already worked and remains on the working needle after the bind-off. Knit the remaining (3, 3) 4, 5 (5, 6), 5, 6 (6, 8), 8, 9 sts. Set this piece aside.
Set this part aside.
INNER POCKET
Cast on (15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21 sts
Work in stockinette st for (8, 8) 9, 9 (10, 10) 12, 12 (14, 14) 14, 16 cms or (3.25, 3.25) 3.5, 3.5 (4, 4) 4.75, 4.75 (5.5, 5.5) 5.5, 6.5 ins ending after completing a right side row.
Now you will combine the pocket to the front piece as follows:
P[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 6, 7 (7, 9) 9, 10] from front piece, p[(15, 15) 15, 15 (15, 15) 17, 17 (19, 19) 21, 21] sts from inner pocket, p[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 7, 8 (8, 9) 10, 11] remaining sts from front piece.
[(23, 24) 26, 27 (28, 29), 30, 32 (34, 37), 40, 42 sts]
RIGHT FRONT BODY
Now work as follows: k[(4, 5) 6, 6 (7, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11) 13, 14] pm, work 15sts in Leah Stitch Pattern, k[(4, 4) 5, 6 (6, 7) 7, 8 (9, 11) 12, 13] until your work measures: (19, 20) 22.5, 24.5 (28.5, 30) 31.5, 37 (40, 44.5) 47.5, 52.5cm or (7.5, 8 ) 9, 9.5 (11.25, 11.5) 12.5, 14.5 (15.75, 17.5) 18.75, 20.75 ins
measured from the cast-on edge. Place markers on each end of the row to mark armhole.
Continue without further neck decreases until the front measures the same length as the back immediately before its shoulder shaping: (28, 30) 33, 36 (39, 41), 44, 50.5 (54.5, 61), 64.5, 71.5 cm / (11, 11¾) 13, 14¼ (15¼, 16¼), 17¼, 20 (21½, 24), 25½, 28¼ in from the cast-on edge. End after a RS row.
NECK
Decrease 1 sts on neck edge of next (5, 5) 5, 5 (9, 11) 9, 9 (11, 11) 11, 11 rows
Then on following right side rows only (6, 7) 7, 8 (4, 3) 5, 6 (5, 6) 7, 8 times
[(12, 12) 14, 14 (15, 15) 16, 17 (18, 20) 22, 23 sts remaining] ending after completing a right-side row.
SHOULDERS
Sizes 18m thru 13/14y only
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
Bind off (x, x) x, x (5, 5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 sts, work to end of row
Work the next row without shaping
All sizes
Bind off remaining (12, 12) 14, 14 (5, 5) 6, 7 (6, 8) 8, 9 st
SLEEVES — make 2
Using the smaller needles, cast on (24, 24) 26, 26 (28, 28), 34, 36 (36, 38), 38, 40 sts. Work flat; do not join in the round.
Work 1×1 ribbing for (2, 2) 2, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5), 2.5, 3 (3, 3), 3, 3 cm / (¾, ¾) ¾, 1 (1, 1), 1, 1¼ (1¼, 1¼), 1¼, 1¼ in, ending after a WS row.
Change to the larger needles and work (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2), 2, 2 (4, 4), 4, 4 rows in stockinette stitch.
Increase Row (RS): K1, M1L, knit to the last st, M1R, k1. [2 sts increased]
Work the Increase Row on every RS row (2, 4) 2, 4 (2, 2), 0, 0 (0, 0), 0, 0 times, purling all WS rows.
Then work the Increase Row every fourth row (3, 3) 5, 5 (7, 8), 5, 4 (11, 10), 16, 16 times.
Then work the Increase Row every sixth row (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0), 4, 6 (2, 4), 1, 2 times.
Keep all increases on RS rows and work the intervening rows in stockinette stitch.
[(34, 38) 40, 44 (46, 48), 52, 56 (62, 66), 72, 76 sts]
Continue in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures (11.5, 13.5) 15.5, 17.5 (19, 20.5), 26.5, 29 (29.5, 33), 38, 40.5 cm / (4½, 5¼) 6, 7 (7½, 8), 10½, 11½ (11½, 13), 15, 16 in from the cast-on edge. Bind off all stitches.
Block the pieces to the intended measurements. Sew the front shoulders to the corresponding back shoulders before picking up the front and neck band.
FRONT RIB EDGE
Using the smaller circular needle with the RS facing, pick up and knit approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows along one front edge, continue around the back neckline, picking up approximately 1 stitch per bound-off stitch, then pick up approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows down the other front edge. Distribute the stitches evenly so the band lies flat.
Work 3 rows in 1×1 ribbing.
On the wearer’s right front, mark the following buttonhole positions, measuring upward from the lower edge. Use the centimeter positions as the controlling measurements; inch equivalents are approximate. Place each marker at the nearest suitable stitch.
0–3m: 2, 8, 14, 20 cm / ¾, 3¼, 5½, 7¾ in.
3–6m: 2, 8.5, 15, 21.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 6, 8½ in.
6–12m: 2, 7.5, 13, 18.5, 24 cm / ¾, 3, 5, 7¼, 9½ in.
12m: 2, 8, 14.5, 20.5, 26.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 5¾, 8, 10½ in.
18m: 2, 8, 13.5, 19.5, 25, 31 cm / ¾, 3¼, 5¼, 7¾, 9¾, 12¼ in.
24m: 2, 8, 14.5, 20.5, 27, 33 cm / ¾, 3¼, 5¾, 8, 10¾, 13 in.
3/4y: 2, 8.5, 15.5, 22, 29, 35.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 6, 8¾, 11½, 14 in.
5/6y: 2, 8.5, 15, 21.5, 28, 34.5, 41 cm / ¾, 3¼, 6, 8½, 11, 13½, 16¼ in.
7/8y: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26.5, 32.5, 38.5, 44.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 5½, 7¾, 10½, 12¾, 15¼, 17½ in.
9/10y: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26.5, 32.5, 38.5, 44.5, 50.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 5½, 7¾, 10½, 12¾, 15¼, 17½, 20 in.
11/12y: 2, 8.5, 15, 21.5, 28, 34, 40.5, 47, 53.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 6, 8½, 11, 13½, 16, 18½, 21 in.
13/14y: 2, 8.5, 15, 21, 27.5, 34, 40.5, 46.5, 53, 59.5 cm / ¾, 3¼, 6, 8¼, 10¾, 13½, 16, 18¼, 20¾, 23½ in.
Place each buttonhole marker immediately before the two stitches that will be used for that buttonhole.
Buttonhole Row: Work in established ribbing to each buttonhole marker, remove the marker, k2tog, yo, then continue in established ribbing. Repeat until all buttonholes have been worked, then work to the end of the row.
Work 3 more rows in established ribbing, working each yarnover to maintain the ribbing. Bind off in pattern.
FINISHING
Center each sleeve’s bound-off edge at the corresponding shoulder seam and sew it into the armhole between the front and back armhole markers. Sew the sleeve and side seams using mattress stitch.
Lay each pocket lining flat against the inside of its front. Sew its side and lower edges securely to the inside of the cardigan, taking care not to close the pocket opening.
Sew the buttons to the wearer’s left front band opposite the buttonholes. Weave in all ends and give the cardigan its final blocking.
ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
K2tog -knit 2 stitches together
M1L — make 1 left; lift the strand between stitches from front to back and knit through its back loop
M1R — make 1 right; lift the strand between stitches from back to front and knit through its front loop
P – purl
PM – place marker
RS — right side
SM – slip marker
SSK – slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together
st/sts — stitch/stitches
WS — wrong side
YO – yarn over
Have you knit a sweater for a child before, or is this your first one? Tell me in the comments—I’d love to hear what you’re working on or planning next!
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