This free child long cardigan knitting pattern is a simple, wearable design you’ll reach for again and again—and it fits right in with my collection of free sweater knitting patterns.
If you’ve ever struggled to find a cardigan that’s actually practical for kids (not fussy, not overly complicated, and something they’ll actually wear), this one solves that problem beautifully. It’s worked top-down with a relaxed fit, easy raglan shaping, and—my daughter’s favorite—real pockets. This free child long cardigan knitting pattern gives you a classic piece that’s comfortable, functional, and fun to knit.
If you’ve been wanting a go-to layering piece that’s simple to knit but still feels special, this is it. This free child long cardigan knitting pattern is one of those projects that just works—easy to follow, easy to wear, and easy to love.
I designed this after my daughter fell in love with my own Rosemary Cardigan and wanted one just like it. Same color, same feel, just in her size—and honestly, I couldn’t resist making that happen.
What materials work best for this free child long cardigan knitting pattern?
For this free child long cardigan knitting pattern, I used KnitPicks Upcycle Alpaca which is discontinued but I also lover Berroco Ultra Alpaca for this one, and it turned out exactly how I hoped. It has that soft, slightly rustic feel that holds up well to everyday wear without feeling too heavy. Since this cardigan is meant to be worn often, choosing a yarn that balances softness and durability really matters.
You’ll need approximately 4–8 balls depending on size, along with 4.5mm and 4mm needles, stitch markers, and a yarn needle for finishing. The gauge is 22 stitches and 32 rows over 10 cm in stockinette, which gives you a nice, even fabric that drapes well without feeling too loose.
I love when a project doesn’t require anything complicated—just good yarn, reliable needles, and a pattern you can trust. This one checks all those boxes.
How is this free child long cardigan knitting pattern constructed?
This free child long cardigan knitting pattern is worked flat from the top down with a v-neck raglan construction. That means you can try it on as you go and adjust the length if needed, which is always a win when knitting for growing kids.
The raglan increases and neckline shaping happen at the same time, and once that’s complete, you’ll divide for sleeves and move into the body. The body is mostly stockinette, with 1×1 ribbing at the edges and pockets worked right into the design. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round, making finishing straightforward.
If you’re comfortable with basic techniques like m1l, m1r, k2tog, ssk, and picking up stitches, you’ll feel right at home with this free child long cardigan knitting pattern.
And those pockets? They’re not just for looks. They’re the first thing my daughter shows off every time she wears hers.
Looking for more patterns like this?
If you love this free child long cardigan knitting pattern, there are so many other designs that pair beautifully with it:
- Youth September Cardigan
- Youth Damask Cardigan
- Youth Wheat Cardigan
- Youth Judah Zipped Cardigan
- Child Anna Cardigan
Each of these has its own style, but they all focus on wearable, everyday pieces that kids actually enjoy putting on. Some lean more textured, some more classic, but they all keep that same practical feel.
I always find it helpful to have a few cardigan options on hand—once you knit one that fits well, it’s hard not to want more.
Youth Rosemary Cardigan Pattern
MATERIALS AND INFO
Size: 3, 4 (5, 6) 7, 8 (9, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14)
Materials: Approximately 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 6) 7, 7 (7, 8) balls of KnitPick Upcycle Alpaca Blend Worsted (219y/100g), needle, stitch markers
Needle Size: 7(US) 4.5mm circular needles and dpn, 6(US) 4mm dpn and a long (36in or more) circular needle
Gauge (tension): 22sts & 32 rows to make 10cm square, using size 7(US) 4.5mm needles working in stockinette stitch
Chest Measurement: 55, 57 (59, 61) 63, 66 (69, 72) 75, 78 (81, 84) cm
METHOD
This pattern a v-neck raglan worked flat from the top down with 15cm of ease. The sleeves are held and then picked up and worked in the round. The main body is knit in stockinette stitch while the edges are worked in a 1×1 rib pattern.
1X1 RIB PATTERN
Row 1 (right side row) – (k1, p1) across Row 2 – knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches.
RAGLAN INCREASES Inc row – [knit to 1 st before next marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l] repeat [to] 3 more times, then knit to the end of the row. 8sts increased.
YOKE
Cast on with U.S. 7 circular needle: 48, 50 (50, 52) 52, 54 (54, 56) 58, 58 (60, 60) sts Do not join.
Set up row (wrong side) – p2, pm, 6, pm, p32, 34 (34, 36) 36, 38 (38, 40) 42, 42 (44, 44) pm, p6, pm, p2
Raglan shaping and neckline shaping are worked AT THE SAME TIME so make sure to read both sections before moving forward.
NECKLINE SHAPING
Sts are increased at the beginning and end of each row to shape the front neck as follows: k1, m1l, work across to last st, m1r, k1 Start front neck shaping after working 2 rows (after the set-up row). Increase 1 st as above every following right-side row for a total of 14, 15 (15, 16) 16, 17 (17, 18) 19, 19 (20, 20) times.
RAGLAN SHAPING
Work raglan increases as described in METHOD section each following right-side row only 19, 17 (18, 17) 18, 19 (20, 19) 20, 20 (21, 22) times, then every other right-side row 0, 2 (2, 3) 3, 3 (3, 4) 4, 5 (5, 5) times
Work 3 rows without raglan shaping.
STITCH COUNT CHECK
Once all the raglan and neck increases have been completed you will have 228, 232 (240, 244) 252, 264 (272, 276) 288, 296 (308, 316) sts on your needles divided as follows:
35, 36 (37, 38) 39, 41 (42, 43) 45, 46 (48, 49) sts (front),
44, 44 (46, 46) 48, 50 (52, 52) 54, 56 (58, 60) sts (sleeve),
70, 72 (74, 76) 78, 82 (84, 86) 90, 92 (96, 98) sts (back),
44, 44 (46, 46) 48, 50 (52, 52) 54, 56 (58, 60) sts (sleeve),
35, 36 (37, 38) 39, 41 (42, 43) 45, 46 (48, 49) sts (front)
DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES
Remove markers as you get to them.
Knit across the 35, 36, (37, 38) 39, 41 (42, 43) 45, 46 (48, 49) left front sts, place the next 44, 44 (46, 46) 48, 50 (52, 52) 54, 56 (58, 60) sts on a holder or waste yarn (left sleeve),
cast on using the backwards loop method 8, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 10) 10, 10 (10, 10) sts (left underarm),
knit 70, 72 (74, 76) 78, 82 (84, 86) 90, 92 (96, 98) sts (back),
place the next 44, 44 (46, 46) 48, 50 (52, 52) 54, 56 (58, 60) sts on a holder or waste yarn (right sleeve),
cast on using the backwards loop method 8, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 10) 10, 10 (10, 10) sts (right underarm),
knit 35, 36 (37, 38) 39, 41 (42, 43) 45, 46 (48, 49) sts (right front). 156, 160 (164, 168) 172, 180 (184, 192) 200, 204 (212, 216) sts
SWEATER BODY
Work in stockinette until piece measures 19, 20 (21.5, 23) 24.5, 26 (27, 28) 29.5, 31 (32.5, 33.5) cm measuring from underarm.
POCKETS
Knit 10, 10 (10, 10) 15, 15 (15, 15) 15, 15 (20, 20) pm,
place the next 25, 25 (25, 25) 30, 30 (30, 30) 30, 30 (35, 35) stitches on a holder, cast on 25, 25 (25, 25) 30, 30 (30, 30) 30, 30 (35, 35) using knit cast on, pm, knit 86, 90 (94, 98) 82, 90 (94, 102) 110, 114 (102, 106) pm, place the next 25, 25 (25, 25) 30, 30 (30, 30) 30, 30 (35, 35) stitches on a holder, cast on 25, 25 (25, 25) 30, 30 (30, 30) 30, 30 (35, 35) using knit cast on, pm, knit the remaining 10, 10 (10, 10) 15, 15 (15, 15) 15, 15 (20, 20) stitches.
Work in stockinette st to marker, sm, work in k1p1 ribbing to marker, sm, work in stockinette stitch to marker, sm, work in k1p1 ribbing to marker, sm, work in stockinette stitch across.
Continue as above until you have 2cms of ribbing on the pockets.
Work to 33, 34, (35, 36) 38, 40 (42, 44) 46, 48 (50, 52) cm or until desired length measuring from underarm removing pocket markers.
Work in 1×1 rib for 4 cm. Bind off all sts in pattern.
SLEEVES
Work each sleeve one at a time as follows:
Pick up 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 5, 5 (5, 5) sts from underarm,
knit 44, 44 (46, 46) 48, 50 (52, 52) 54, 56 (58, 60) sts of the sleeve on the holder, pick up 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 5) 5, 5 (5, 5) sts from underarm on to U.S. 7 double pointed needles.
Place marker at center underarm to keep track of the beginning of round. 52, 52 (54, 54) 56, 58 (60, 62) 64, 66 (68, 70) sts
Knit for 3, 11 (11, 11) 13, 13 (15, 15) 15, 17 (15, 17) rounds
DECREASES
Decrease 1 st at each side of marker every 10th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (3, 4) 2, 0 (2, 0) ,then every 8th round 0, 2 (2, 4) 7, 8 (6, 5) 8, 10 (9, 11) times then every 6th round 8, 6 (7, 5) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 1 (0, 1) [36, 36 (36, 36) 42, 42 (42, 44) 44, 44 (46, 46) sts].
Continue without decreasing in stockinette st until sleeve measures 18, 20 (21.5, 23.5) 24.5, 25.5 (27, 29) 30.5, 32 (32.5, 35) cm or desired length measuring from underarm.
CUFF
Work in 1×1 rib for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.
APPLIED RIBBED EDGING
Pick up 1 stitch for each row along front and neck using the size 6 circular needle.
Cast on 9 sts, turn (wrong side now facing) work 1×1 ribbing for 8sts starting with purl, purl together the last cast on band stitch with the first picked up stitch. Turn, knit together the next picked up stitch with the first cast on band stitch. Continue in this pattern until all picked up stitches have been worked.
I have a short on youtube to show I how I did this BUT I am left handed so it may appear backwards to you. It will give you a better idea of how to do this if you haven’t made an applied band though. You can find it here.
Bind off in established rib pattern.
POCKETS (MAKE 2)
Pick up the 25, 25 (25, 25) 30, 30 (30, 30) 30, 35 (35, 35) stitches on hold. Work in stockinette stitch for 12, 12, (12, 12) 14, 14 (14, 14) 14, 14 (16, 16) cms. Bind off.
FINISHING
Sew pockets down. Weave in all ends and block as desired.
ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit
P – purl
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
m1l – pick up from front to back the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through back loop
m1r – pick up from back to front the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through the front loop
If you make this free child long cardigan knitting pattern, I would love to hear how it turned out for you. Did your kid go straight for the pockets too? Let me know in the comments!
This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.