This free ankle sock knitting pattern is a simple, wearable design that fits right in with your favorite free sock knitting patterns.
If you’ve ever struggled to find a go-to sock that actually fits well, works for every size, and doesn’t feel overly complicated, this one solves that. These September Ankle Socks are knit top down using KnitPicks Hawthorne yarn on 2.25mm DPNs, with a clean stockinette body, a classic heel flap and gusset, and a ribbed tabbed cuff shaped with short rows for a polished finish. It’s the kind of free ankle sock knitting pattern you’ll come back to again and again.
If you’ve been wanting a sock that’s straightforward but still looks finished and intentional, this is it. It’s beginner-friendly, size-inclusive from baby through large adult, and easy to memorize once you get going.
What materials do you need for this free ankle sock knitting pattern?
For this free ankle sock knitting pattern, I kept the materials simple and reliable so you can focus on actually enjoying your knitting instead of overthinking your setup.
• Yarn: KnitPicks Hawthorne
• Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs
• Notions: yarn needle
KnitPicks Hawthorne is one of my favorites for socks because it’s sturdy, holds stitch definition really well, and wears nicely over time. That matters when you’re putting in the work on a full pair of socks.
Before you dive in, just make sure you’re comfortable knitting in the round and working basic decreases. Everything else flows really naturally from there.
How does this free ankle sock knitting pattern work?
This free ankle sock knitting pattern is worked from the top down, starting with that ribbed tabbed cuff. The short rows create a subtle tab at the back that helps the sock sit comfortably at the ankle without slipping.
From there, you’ll move into a smooth stockinette leg and foot, which keeps things moving quickly. The heel is a traditional heel flap and gusset, giving you a great fit across multiple sizes without needing constant adjustments.
If you’ve knit socks before, this will feel very familiar. If you haven’t, this is a great place to start because the structure is classic and easy to follow.
Take your time with the heel section if you’re newer to socks. Once that clicks, the rest of the sock feels like a breeze.
Looking for more free ankle sock knitting pattern ideas?
If you’re loving this free ankle sock knitting pattern, I’ve got quite a few more you can try next:
• Ethan Socks
• Judah Ankle Socks
• Deborah Ankle Socks
• Simone Ankle Socks
• Vanilla Ankle Socks
Each one has a slightly different texture or construction detail, so you can build your skills while still making something you’ll actually wear.
Once you knit one pair, it’s really hard to stop at just one.
September Ankle Socks
Materials:
Yarn: 120 (150, 200), 250, 280, (300, 350) yards fingering / sock weight yarn
Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)
Notions: stitch markers, needle
Gauge: 8sts x 11rows per inch
sizing:
baby (toddler, child,) lg child, adult S, (M, L)
Finished measurements (unstretched):
Leg Length (adjustable): 2.5 (3.5, 4) 4.5, 5, (6, 7)”
Foot Length (adjustable): 4 (6, 7.25), 8, 9, (10, 11.25)”
Model is wearing a ladies small and wears a size 6 shoe.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Cuff
Cast on 40 (44, 52) 56, 60, (64, 72) sts, join for working in the round.
Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:
1st needle 20 (22, 26) 28, 30 (32, 36) sts
2nd and 3rd needle 10 (11, 13) 14, 15 (16, 18) sts each needle
Work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 3 (4, 4) 4, 4, (4, 6) rounds.
Short rows:
Row 1 – Work across 1st needle to 1 st remaining on needle, W&T.
Row 2 – Work across to 1 st remaining on the needle, W&T.
Row 3 – Work across to 1 st before last wrap, W&T.
Row 4 – Work across to 1 st before last wrap, W&T.
Repeat rounds 3 & 4: 1 (1, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) times.
Next round: Work across cuff in 1×1 ribbing, picking up wraps and working them
together with the sts they wrap as you complete this round.
Work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 3 (4, 4) 4, 4, (4, 6) rounds.
Next Round: Fold the cast on edge into the sock, lining up the cast on edge with the
current working sts. *Pick up the cast on stitch directly above the current stitch,
k2tog, rep from * to the end of the rnd, the stitch count will not change.
Heel Flap
Next round: You will work the heel flap on the next 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sts.
Place the remaining 20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sts on hold.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end, turn work.
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 8 (10, 12), 13, 14, (16, 18) times.
This is a total of 16 (20, 24), 26, 28, (32, 36) rows.
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k12 (12, 14), 15, 16, (18, 20), ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, p7 (5, 5) 5, 5, (7, 7), p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked: 14 (14, 16), 16, 18, (20, 22) sts
remain.
Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.
Gusset
Pick up and knit 9 (11, 13), 14, 15, (17, 19) sts along the edge of heel flap, PM, k20
(22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), PM, pick up and knit 9 (11, 13), 14, 15, (17, 19) sts along
heel flap, k7 (7, 8) 8, 9, (10, 11) sts, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the
foot). [52 (58, 68) 72, 78, (86, 96) sts]
Round 1: knit
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k20 (22, 26), 28, 30, (32, 36), sm,
k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 6 (7, 8) 8, 9, (11, 12) times. [40 (44, 52) 56, 60, (64, 72)
sts]
Foot
Shift beginning of round (BOR) remove marker as follows: remove marker, k10 (11, 13)
14, 15, (16, 18), place marker – this is the new BOR, located at the side of the foot.
Keep the second marker after the instep stitches in place.
Continue working in the round, keeping the top of foot in pattern, until the piece
measures 3 (5, 6) 6.5, 7, (8, 9)” from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1.5) 1.75, 2, (2, 2.25)”
short of desired foot length.
Toe
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end
of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]
Round 2: knit
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 5 (6, 7) 8, 9, (9, 10) times. until 16 (16, 20) 20, 20, (24, 24)
sts remain.
Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends
Kitchener stitch:
Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and
bottom NOT side to side)
Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.
Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front
needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back)
through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the
needle.
Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on
the needle.
Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off
the needle.
Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the
needle.
From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.
Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:
Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,
Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,
Repeat!
At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.
Work steps 1 and 3 once more.
ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit P – purl
sm – slip maker pm – place marker
st – stich sts – stitches
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle,
knit both slipped sts together
w&t – wrap the yarn around the next stitch, turn work
If you end up making these September Ankle Socks, I’d love to hear about it. Tell me what yarn you used or who you made them for in the comments—I always enjoy seeing how these turn out for you.
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