This sweater knitting patterns free post walks you through one of my favorite designs while also pointing you to more free sweater knitting patterns you can start today.
If you’ve ever struggled to find a kid-friendly sweater that’s both practical and actually gets worn, this solves that problem. The Dathan Pullover is designed to be simple to knit, comfortable for everyday wear, and durable enough for active kids. It’s a great option if you’ve been searching for sweater knitting patterns for free that balance structure with ease. I’ll walk you through what makes this pattern work, what to expect during construction, and how to get the best results.

If you love sweater knitting patterns free but want something that feels a little more thoughtful than basic stockinette, this one hits that sweet spot. It’s easy to follow, but still has just enough texture to keep things interesting.
The bottom-up construction gives it a clean, structured fit, while the drop sleeves keep it relaxed and wearable. It’s the kind of sweater kids actually reach for, which is always the goal.
What Materials Work Best for Sweater Knitting Patterns Free Like This One?
When it comes to sweater knitting patterns free, yarn choice makes a huge difference in how the final piece feels and wears. For the Dathan Pullover, I used Berroco Vintage DK because it has that perfect mix of softness and durability. It holds its shape well, which is especially helpful for a structured piece like this.
You’ll need size 5 (3.75mm) circular needles for the body and size 4 (3.5mm) circular needles for the ribbing. That slight needle change helps the ribbing pull in nicely without feeling tight or stiff.
DK weight yarn is one of my go-to choices for kids’ sweaters because it creates a fabric that’s not too heavy but still warm enough for layering. It also gives you great stitch definition, which really helps the texture on the chest stand out.

I’ve also found that choosing a yarn with a little bit of elasticity makes a big difference in how the sweater moves. Especially for kids, you want something that can handle a full day of play without losing its shape.
How Does This Sweater Knitting Pattern Free Come Together?
This is one of those sweater knitting patterns for free that feels very straightforward once you get going. You start by working the body in the round from the bottom up, which keeps things nice and rhythmic.
Once you reach the armholes, you split the work and knit the front and back flat. This helps create a clean structure through the shoulders and neckline, especially with the Henley-style opening.
The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round, making them easy to customize for length. And the texture section across the chest adds just enough variety to keep things interesting without slowing you down.

One tip I always recommend is to check your button placement early if you’re adjusting the collar. That small step can save a lot of reworking later.
Looking for More Sweater Knitting Patterns Free?
If you’re anything like me, once you find sweater knitting patterns free that you love, you want more of them. Here are a few you might enjoy next:






These patterns all have that same focus on wearability and simple construction, which makes them great additions to your knitting lineup.
Each one offers a slightly different style, so you can mix and match depending on what you need. Whether you’re knitting for layering pieces or standout sweaters, having a few go-to patterns makes everything easier.

The Dathan Pullover fits right into that collection. It’s simple enough to knit more than once, and it pairs perfectly with the matching Dathan Hat if you love a coordinated set.
Dathan Pullover Free Pattern
MATERIALS AND INFO
Size: 0-3m, 3-6m (6-12m, 12m) 18m, 24m (3/4y, 5/6y) 7/8y, 9/10y (11/12y, 13/14yrs)
Materials: Approximately 270, 320 (390, 450) 490, 560 (635, 740) 880, 1020 (1190, 1352) yds of Berroco Vintage DK 100g/2290yds yarn needle, stitch markers
Needle Size: 5(US) 3.75mm circular needles and dpn, 4(US) 3.5mm circular and dpn
Gauge (tension): 24sts & 32 rows to make 10cm square, using size 6(US) 4mm needles working in stockinette stitch
Chest Measurement: 41, 44 (47, 50), 52, 54 (57, 61) 66, 72 (77.5, 85) cm or 16, 17.25 (18.5, 19.5) 20.5, 21 (22.5, 24) 26.5, 28.75 (31, 34) ins
METHOD
Dathan Pullover is bottom-up drop sleeve pullover in an easy-care yarn. It is worked in the round until the sleeves. Created for our 6th child, he wanted something sokt and comfortable for winter to layer when we go to church.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Note: choose size based on chest measurement for best fit. Measurements above are measurement of the person not sweater measurements.
1X1 RIB PATTERN
Row 1 (right side row) – (k1, p1) across
Row 2 – knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches.
STITCH CHART

Row Instructions
Row 1 – knit across
Row 2 – [p3,k3] across
Row 3 – knit across
Row 4 – [p3,k3] across
Row 5 – knit across
Row 6 – [p3,k3] across
Row 7 – knit across
Row 8 – [p3,k3] across
Row 9 – knit across
Row 10 – [p3,k3] across
Row 11 – knit across
Row 12 – [k3,p3] across
Row 13 – knit across
Row 14 – [k3,p3] across
Row 15 – knit across
Row 16 – [k3,p3] across
Row 17 – knit across
Row 18 – [k3,p3] across
Row 19 – knit across
Row 20 – [k3,p3] across
BODY
Cast on using smaller circular needle: 124, 132 (140, 148) 152, 156 (164, 172) 188, 200 (216, 232) sts. Join in the round.
Work in 1×1 ribbing for 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5)ins.
Switch to larger needles.
Work in stockinette until piece measures 14, 15 (17.5, 19.5) 21, 22.5 (24, 26) 28.5, 30 (32, 36) cm or 5.5, 6 (7, 7.75) 8.5, 9 (9.5, 10.5) 11.5, 12 (13, 14.5) measuring from cast on.
SEPARATE FOR ARMHOLE
Work 62, 66 (70, 74) 76, 78 (82, 86) 94, 100 (108, 116) sts place remaining 62, 66 (70, 74) 76, 78 (82, 86) 94, 100 (108, 116) sts on holder.
You will now work flat.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 21, 24 (25, 28.5) 31, 32.5 (36, 40) 43.5, 46 (50, 55) cms or 8.5, 9.5 (10.5, 11.5) 12.5, 13 (14.5, 16) 17.5,18.5 (20, 22) ins from cast on bottom edge.
SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS
Bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts at beginning of row, work in pattern for 9, 10 (11, 11) 11, 12 (12, 12) 12, 14 (14, 15) [10, 11 (12, 12) 12, 13 (13, 13) 13, 15 (15, 16) sts on right needle].
Put remaining sts on stitch holder.
Turn, bind off 3sts, work to end of row.
Turn, bind off remaining 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to stitches on hold, bind off 14, 16 (18, 18) 20, 20 (24, 24) 28, 30 (34, 36) knit remaining 17,18 (19, 20) 20, 21 (21, 22) 23, 25 (26, 28) sts.
Turn, bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts work to end of row
Turn, bind off 3sts
Turn, bind off 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts
SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLES
With larger needle pick up the 62, 66 (70, 74) 76, 78 (82, 86) 94, 100 (108, 116) sts on hold.
Work in stitch chart pattern until you have worked 16, 17.5 (20, 22) 24, 25 (26, 28.5) 31, 32.5 (35, 36) cm or 6.5, 7 (8, 8.75) 9.5, 10 (10.5, 11.5) 12.5, 13 (14, 14.5) measuring from cast on.
LEFT FRONT NECK SHAPING
Work 28, 30 (32, 34) 35, 36 (38, 40) 44, 47 (51, 55) sts, put remaining sts on holder, turn, place marker, cast on 6 sts (this is your button band).
34, 36 (38, 40) 41, 42 (44, 46) 50, 53 (57, 61) sts
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 20, 21 (25, 27.5) 28.5, 30 (33.5, 37.5) 41, 42.5 (46, 51) cms or 8, 8.5 (10, 11) 11.5, 12 (13.5, 15) 16.5, 17 (18.5, 20) ins from bottom cast on edge keeping the button band in garter stitch (knit every row). Finish after completing a wrong side row.
Work 24, 25 (27, 29) 29, 30 (30, 32) 35, 37 (42, 45) sts, put remaining sts 10, 11 (11, 11) 12, 12 (14, 14) 15, 16 (15, 16) on a stitch holder, turn.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge of next 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 3, 3 (5, 5) rows.
Then decrease 1 st at neck edge of every other row 1, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) times.
21, 22 (23, 25) 25, 26 (26, 28) 30, 32 (34, 37) sts remain.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 21, 24 (25, 28.5) 31, 32.5 (36, 40) 43.5, 46 (50, 55) cms or 8.5, 9.5 (10.5, 11.5) 12.5, 13 (14.5, 16) 17.5,18.5 (20, 22) ins from cast on bottom edge.
End after completing a wrong side row.
LEFT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING
Starting on a right-side row, bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.
Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.
Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
Bind off remaining 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts.
RIGHT FRONT NECK SHAPING
Rejoin yarn, working on stitches on stitch holder. Bind off 6 sts
Work to the end of the row. Turn, place marker, cast on 6 sts (this is your button band), pm, work to end of the row.
34, 36 (38, 40) 41, 42 (44, 46) 50, 53 (57, 61) sts
Right Front Button Band
The button band is worked in garter stitch from here on. You will work in garter stitch on the button band only and then place your buttonholes as follows:
Buttonhole row: Worked on a right-side row only, k2, k2tog, yo, k1
Place 3, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (4, 4) 4, 4 (5, 5) buttonholes:
1 – After working .75, .75 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1.25, 1.5) 1.25, 1.5 (1.25, 1.25) in or 2, 2 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (3, 4) 3, 4 (3, 3) cms in garter from cast on edge of button band
2 – After working .75, .75 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1.5) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.5) in or 2, 2 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 4) 3, 3 (3, 4) cms in garter from last buttonhole
3 – After working .75, .75 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1.5) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.5) in or 2, 2 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 4) 3, 3 (3, 4) cms in garter from last buttonhole
For sizes 3/4y – 13/14y only
4 – After working x, x (x, x) x, x (1, 1.5) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.5) in or x, x (x, x) x, x (2.5, 4) 3, 3 (3, 4) cms in garter from last buttonhole
For size 13/14y only
5 – After working x, x (x, x) x, x (x, x) x, x (1.25, 1.5) in or x, x (x, x) x, x (x, x) x, x (3, 4) cms in garter from last buttonhole
These instructions are for the entire length of this button band including when you are working after picking up the neckband.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 20, 21 (25, 27.5) 28.5, 30 (33.5, 37.5) 41, 42.5 (46, 51) cms or 8, 8.5 (10, 11) 11.5, 12 (13.5, 15) 16.5, 17 (18.5, 20) ins from bottom cast on edge keeping the button band in garter stitch (knit every row). Finish after completing a right side row.
Place the first 10, 11 (11, 11) 12, 12 (14, 14) 15, 16 (15, 16) sts on stitch holder, work to end of row in charted stitch pattern.
Turn.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge of next 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 3, 3 (5, 5) rows.
Then decrease 1 st at neck edge of every other row 1, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 3) times.
21, 22 (23, 25) 25, 26 (26, 28) 30, 32 (34, 37) sts remain.
Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 21, 24 (25, 28.5) 31, 32.5 (36, 40) 43.5, 46 (50, 55) cms or 8.5, 9.5 (10.5, 11.5) 12.5, 13 (14.5, 16) 17.5,18.5 (20, 22) ins from cast on bottom edge.
End after completing a right side row.
RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING
Starting on a wrong-side row, bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.
Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.
Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.
Bind off remaining 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts.
Sew shoulder seams.
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
With larger circular or dpn needles, pick up and knit 46, 48 (52, 56) 60, 62 (68, 74) 80, 88 (96, 104) sts with the beginning of round being the underarm separation of front and back. Join in the round.
Working in stockinette st for 3, 5 (7, 7) 7, 7 (9, 13) 13, 13 (15, 17) rounds.
DECREASES
Decrease 1st at each side of marker every 4th round 0, 3 (4, 5) 6, 7 (13, 13) 16, 19 (19, 18) times,
Then decrease 1 st at each side of marker every other round 8, 5 (5, 6) 6, 6 (0, 3) 0, 0 (3, 7) times
30, 32 (34, 34) 36, 36 (42, 42) 48, 50 (52, 54) sts
Work in stockinette until sleeve measures from picked up stitches 3.5, 4.5 (5, 6) 6.5, 7 (9, 10) 11, 11.5 (13.5, 14.5) ins or 9, 11.5 (12.5, 14.5) 16, 17.5 (22.5, 25) 27, 29 (34 , 36.5) cms
Work in k1p1 ribbing for 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5) ins or 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms. Bind off in pattern.
NECKBAND.
With right side facing pick up 10, 11 (11, 11) 12, 12 (14, 14) 15, 16 (15, 16) sts on stitch holder on right front edge,
6, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 11) 11, 12 (14, 14) sts up right front of neck,
20, 22 (24, 24) 26, 26 (30, 30) 34, 36 (40, 42) sts from back neck,
6, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 11) 11, 12 (14, 14) sts up left front and side of neck,
10, 11 (11, 11) 12, 12 (14, 14) 15, 16 (15, 16) sts on stitch hold on left front edge.
[52, 60 (62, 62) 68, 68 (76, 80) 86, 92 (98, 102) sts]
Work in 1×1 ribbing but keeping the button bands in pattern for a total of 1.5, 1.5 (1.75, 1.75) 2, 2 (2.5, 2,5) 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3)ins 4, 4 (4.5, 4.5) 5, 5 (6, 6) 6, 6 7.5, 7.5) cms.
*Remember to work the right front button band as notated above in the right front neck shaping section. It is italicized. The left front button band is to continue in garter stitch throughout. *
Bind off all sts in pattern. Fold over (toward the wrong side) the neck and sew it down.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Sew the button band cast on edge down making sure the right side is over the left side. Sew the buttons on the left button band to correspond with the buttonholes on the right button band. Block as desired.
ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
P – purl
PM – place marker
SM – slip marker
INS – inches
CMS – centemeters
ST – stitch
STS – stitches

I’d love to hear what you think—are you more drawn to Henley-style sweaters like this, or do you stick with classic pullovers? Drop a comment below and tell me what you’re casting on next!
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I love this style very much. Thank you for sharing another wonderful pattern.
Could you possibly increase the sizing for a man’s pullover? I know my adult son would appreciate this style.
God Bless
Mo 🙏🏻
I have definitely given it thought. I do feel it would size up beautifully. Maybe I’ll grab the yarn during all the November sales.