This sweater knitting patterns free post walks you through one of my favorite designs while also pointing you to more free sweater knitting patterns you can start today.

If you’ve ever struggled to find a kid-friendly sweater that’s both practical and actually gets worn, this solves that problem. The Dathan Pullover is designed to be simple to knit, comfortable for everyday wear, and durable enough for active kids. It’s a great option if you’ve been searching for sweater knitting patterns for free that balance structure with ease. I’ll walk you through what makes this pattern work, what to expect during construction, and how to get the best results.

If you love sweater knitting patterns free but want something that feels a little more thoughtful than basic stockinette, this one hits that sweet spot. It’s easy to follow, but still has just enough texture to keep things interesting.

The bottom-up construction gives it a clean, structured fit, while the drop sleeves keep it relaxed and wearable. It’s the kind of sweater kids actually reach for, which is always the goal.

What Materials Work Best for Sweater Knitting Patterns Free Like This One?

When it comes to sweater knitting patterns free, yarn choice makes a huge difference in how the final piece feels and wears. For the Dathan Pullover, I used Berroco Vintage DK because it has that perfect mix of softness and durability. It holds its shape well, which is especially helpful for a structured piece like this.

You’ll need size 5 (3.75mm) circular needles for the body and size 4 (3.5mm) circular needles for the ribbing. That slight needle change helps the ribbing pull in nicely without feeling tight or stiff.

DK weight yarn is one of my go-to choices for kids’ sweaters because it creates a fabric that’s not too heavy but still warm enough for layering. It also gives you great stitch definition, which really helps the texture on the chest stand out.

I’ve also found that choosing a yarn with a little bit of elasticity makes a big difference in how the sweater moves. Especially for kids, you want something that can handle a full day of play without losing its shape.

How Does This Sweater Knitting Pattern Free Come Together?

This is one of those sweater knitting patterns for free that feels very straightforward once you get going. You start by working the body in the round from the bottom up, which keeps things nice and rhythmic.

Once you reach the armholes, you split the work and knit the front and back flat. This helps create a clean structure through the shoulders and neckline, especially with the Henley-style opening.

The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round, making them easy to customize for length. And the texture section across the chest adds just enough variety to keep things interesting without slowing you down.

One tip I always recommend is to check your button placement early if you’re adjusting the collar. That small step can save a lot of reworking later.

Looking for More Sweater Knitting Patterns Free?

If you’re anything like me, once you find sweater knitting patterns free that you love, you want more of them. Here are a few you might enjoy next:

These patterns all have that same focus on wearability and simple construction, which makes them great additions to your knitting lineup.

Each one offers a slightly different style, so you can mix and match depending on what you need. Whether you’re knitting for layering pieces or standout sweaters, having a few go-to patterns makes everything easier.

The Dathan Pullover fits right into that collection. It’s simple enough to knit more than once, and it pairs perfectly with the matching Dathan Hat if you love a coordinated set.

Dathan Pullover Free Pattern

MATERIALS AND INFO

Size: 0-3m, 3-6m (6-12m, 12m) 18m, 24m (3/4y, 5/6y) 7/8y, 9/10y (11/12y, 13/14yrs)

Materials: Approximately 270, 320 (390, 450) 490, 560 (635, 740) 880, 1020 (1190, 1352) yds of Berroco Vintage DK 100g/290yds, yarn needle, stitch markers

Needle Size: 5(US) 3.75mm circular needles and dpn, 4(US) 3.5mm circular and dpn

Gauge (tension): 24sts & 32 rows to make 10cm square, using size 5(US) 3.75mm needles working in stockinette stitch

Intended wearer chest circumference: 16¼, 17¼ (18½, 19¾), 20½, 21¼ (22½, 24), 26, 28¼ (30½, 33½) in / 41, 44 (47, 50), 52, 54 (57, 61), 66, 72 (77.5, 85) cm.

Finished lower-body circumference at the stated stockinette gauge: Approximately 20¼, 21¾ (23, 24¼), 25, 25½ (27, 28¼), 30¾, 32¾ (35½, 38) in / 51.5, 55 (58.5, 61.5), 63.5, 65 (68.5, 71.5), 78.5, 83.5 (90, 96.5) cm.

METHOD

Dathan Pullover is bottom-up drop sleeve pullover in an easy-care yarn. It is worked in the round until the sleeves. Created for our 6th child, he wanted something soft and comfortable for winter to layer when we go to church.

Abbreviations can be found on the last page.

Note: choose size based on chest measurement for best fit. Measurements above are measurement of the person not sweater measurements.

1×1 RIB

In the round: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Worked flat over an even number of stitches:
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they face you.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2.

STITCH CHART

Row Instructions

Row 1 – knit across

Row 2 – [p3,k3] across

Row 3 – knit across

Row 4 – [p3,k3] across

Row 5 – knit across

Row 6 – [p3,k3] across

Row 7 – knit across

Row 8 – [p3,k3] across

Row 9 – knit across

Row 10 – [p3,k3] across

Row 11 – knit across

Row 12 – [k3,p3] across

Row 13 – knit across

Row 14 – [k3,p3] across

Row 15 – knit across

Row 16 – [k3,p3] across

Row 17 – knit across

Row 18 – [k3,p3] across

Row 19 – knit across

Row 20 – [k3,p3] across

Work the six-stitch repeat across the available stitches, stopping when all stitches have been worked, even if the final repeat is incomplete.

Read RS chart rows from right to left and WS chart rows from left to right. For this chart, the symbols indicate the stitch to work on that row: blank square = knit; filled circle = purl.

After dividing for the neckline or shaping an edge, maintain the established stitch columns rather than restarting the repeat at the new edge. Keep the six button-band stitches in garter stitch.

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BODY

Cast on using smaller circular needle: 124, 132 (140, 148) 152, 156 (164, 172) 188, 200 (216, 232) sts. Join in the round.

Work in 1×1 ribbing for 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms or 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5)ins.

Switch to larger needles.

Work in stockinette until piece measures 14, 15 (17.5, 19.5) 21, 22.5 (24, 26) 28.5, 30 (32, 36) cm or 5.5, 6 (7, 7.75) 8.5, 9 (9.5, 10.5) 11.5, 12 (13, 14.5) measuring from cast on.

SEPARATE FOR ARMHOLE

Work Row 1 of the stitch pattern across the first 62, 66 (70, 74), 76, 78 (82, 86), 94, 100 (108, 116) sts for the back.

Place the remaining 62, 66 (70, 74), 76, 78 (82, 86), 94, 100 (108, 116) front sts on waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Turn. Continue working the back flat, beginning with Row 2 of the stitch pattern.

Continue in the charted stitch pattern until the back measures 8¼, 9½ (9¾, 11¼), 12¼, 12¾ (14¼, 15¾), 17¼, 18 (19¾, 21¾) in / 21, 24 (25, 28.5), 31, 32.5 (36, 40), 43.5, 46 (50, 55) cm from the bottom cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS

Bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts at beginning of row, work in pattern for 9, 10 (11, 11) 11, 12 (12, 12) 12, 14 (14, 15) [10, 11 (12, 12) 12, 13 (13, 13) 13, 15 (15, 16) sts on right needle].

Put remaining sts on stitch holder.

Turn, bind off 3sts, work to end of row.

Turn, bind off remaining 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts

With RS facing, rejoin yarn to the held stitches. Bind off 14, 16 (18, 18), 20, 20 (24, 24), 28, 30 (34, 36) center-neck sts, then work in pattern to the end.

There are 17, 18 (19, 20), 20, 21 (21, 22), 23, 25 (26, 28) sts remaining on the needle, including the stitch remaining after the bind-off.

Turn, bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts work to end of row

Turn, bind off 3 sts at the neck edge, then work in pattern to the end of the row.

Turn, bind off 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts

SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLES

With larger needle pick up the 62, 66 (70, 74) 76, 78 (82, 86) 94, 100 (108, 116) sts on hold.

With RS facing, rejoin yarn to the held front stitches. Begin with Row 1 of the stitch pattern and work flat until the front measures 6¼, 7 (7¾, 8¾), 9½, 9¾ (10¼, 11¼), 12¼, 12¾ (13¾, 14¼) in / 16, 17.5 (20, 22), 24, 25 (26, 28.5), 31, 32.5 (35, 36) cm from the bottom cast-on edge. End after a WS row.

LEFT FRONT NECK SHAPING

On the next RS row, work 28, 30 (32, 34), 35, 36 (38, 40), 44, 47 (51, 55) sts in pattern.

Place the remaining 34, 36 (38, 40), 41, 42 (44, 46), 50, 53 (57, 61) sts on a holder.

Turn. Cast on 6 sts at the neck edge for the button band and place a marker between these stitches and the main fabric.

There are 34, 36 (38, 40), 41, 42 (44, 46), 50, 53 (57, 61) working sts. Keep the six button-band stitches in garter stitch.

Continue in the established stitch pattern, keeping the button band in garter stitch, until the piece measures 7½, 8¼ (8¾, 10¼), 11¼, 11¾ (13¼, 14¾), 16¼, 16¾ (18, 20) in / 19, 21 (22.5, 26), 28.5, 30 (33.5, 37.5), 41, 42.5 (46, 51) cm from the bottom cast-on edge.

For the left front, end after a WS row. For the right front, end after an RS row.

Work 24, 25 (27, 29) 29, 30 (30, 32) 35, 37 (42, 45) sts, put remaining sts 10, 11 (11, 11) 12, 12 (14, 14) 15, 16 (15, 16) on a stitch holder, turn.

Decrease 1 st at the neck edge of the next 2, 2 (2, 2), 2, 2 (2, 2), 3, 3 (5, 5) rows.

Then decrease 1 st at the neck edge of every other row 1, 1 (2, 2), 2, 2 (2, 2), 2, 2 (3, 3) times.

There are 21, 22 (23, 25), 25, 26 (26, 28), 30, 32 (34, 37) sts remaining.

Continue in the established stitch pattern until the piece measures 8¼, 9½ (9¾, 11¼), 12¼, 12¾ (14¼, 15¾), 17¼, 18 (19¾, 21¾) in / 21, 24 (25, 28.5), 31, 32.5 (36, 40), 43.5, 46 (50, 55) cm from the bottom cast-on edge end after completing a wrong side row.

LEFT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING

Starting on a right-side row, bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.

Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.

bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.

Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.

Bind off remaining 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts.

RIGHT FRONT NECK SHAPING

With RS facing, rejoin yarn at the neck edge of the held front stitches. Bind off the first 6 sts.

Return the stitch remaining on the right needle to the left needle. Cast on 6 sts at this neck edge using the knitted or cable cast-on.

Work the six new button-band stitches in garter stitch, place a marker, then work the remaining stitches in the established pattern to the armhole edge.

There are 34, 36 (38, 40), 41, 42 (44, 46), 50, 53 (57, 61) sts.

Right Front Button Band

The button band is worked in garter stitch from here on. You will work in garter stitch on the button band only and then place your buttonholes as follows:

Buttonhole row (RS): K2, k2tog, yo, k2 across the six button-band stitches, then work the remaining stitches in the established pattern.

Work 3, 3 (3, 3), 3, 3 (4, 4), 4, 4 (5, 5) buttonholes.

Measure every position below from the cast-on edge at the bottom of the button band, including the continuation into the neckband. These are cumulative measurements from the button band cast on, not distances between buttonholes.

0–3m: ½, 1, and 1½ in / 1, 2.5, and 4 cm.

3–6m: ½, 1¼, and 1¾ in / 1, 3, and 4.5 cm.

6–12m: ½, 1, and 1½ in / 1, 2.5, and 4 cm.

12m: ½, 1¼, and 2¼ in / 1, 3, and 5.5 cm.

18m: ½, 1½, and 2¼ in / 1, 3.5, and 6 cm.

24m: ½, 1½, and 2½ in / 1, 4, and 6.5 cm.

3/4y: ½, 1½, 2½, and 3¾ in / 1, 4, 6.5, and 9.5 cm.

5/6y: ½, 1¾, 3, and 4¼ in / 1, 4.5, 7.5, and 11 cm.

7/8y: ½, 1¾, 3¼, and 4¾ in / 1, 4.5, 8.5, and 12 cm.

9/10y: ½, 1¾, 3¼, and 4¾ in / 1, 4.5, 8.5, and 12 cm.

11/12y: ½, 1½, 3, 4¼, and 5½ in / 1, 4, 7.5, 10.5, and 14 cm.

13/14y: ½, 2, 3¾, 5¼, and 7 in / 1, 5, 9.5, 13.5, and 18 cm.

Work each buttonhole on the nearest RS row: K2, k2tog, yo, k2 across the six button-band stitches.

Work in stitch chart pattern until piece measures 20, 21 (25, 27.5) 28.5, 30 (33.5, 37.5) 41, 42.5 (46, 51) cms or 8, 8.5 (10, 11) 11.5, 12 (13.5, 15) 16.5, 17 (18.5, 20) ins from bottom cast on edge keeping the button band in garter stitch (knit every row). Finish after completing a right-side row.

On the next WS row, place the first 10, 11 (11, 11),12, 12 (14, 14), 15, 16 (15, 16) neck-edge sts on a holder without working them.

Rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and work in the established pattern to the armhole edge. Turn and begin the neckline decreases.

Decrease 1 st at the neck edge of the next 2, 2 (2, 2), 2, 2 (2, 2), 3, 3 (5, 5) rows.

Then decrease 1 st at the neck edge of every other row 1, 1 (2, 2), 2, 2 (2, 2), 2, 2 (3, 3) times.

There are 21, 22 (23, 25), 25, 26 (26, 28), 30, 32 (34, 37) sts remaining.

Continue in the established stitch pattern until the piece measures 8¼, 9½ (9¾, 11¼), 12¼, 12¾ (14¼, 15¾), 17¼, 18 (19¾, 21¾) in / 21, 24 (25, 28.5), 31, 32.5 (36, 40), 43.5, 46 (50, 55) cm from the bottom cast-on edge end after completing a right side row.

RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER SHAPING

Starting on a wrong-side row, bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.

Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.

bind off 7, 7 (7, 8) 8, 8 (8, 9) 10, 10 (11, 12) sts, work across remains sts, turn.

Work 1 row with no decreases, turn.

Bind off remaining 7, 8 (9, 9) 9, 10 (10, 10) 10, 12 (12, 13) sts.

Sew shoulder seams.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

With larger circular or dpn needles, pick up and knit 46, 48 (52, 56) 60, 62 (68, 74) 80, 88 (96, 104) sts with the beginning of round being the underarm separation of front and back. Join in the round.

Working in stockinette st for 3, 5 (7, 7) 7, 7 (9, 13) 13, 13 (15, 17) rounds.

DECREASES

Count each decrease interval from the previous decrease round, or from the end of the initial plain rounds when beginning the first interval. Knit all intervening rounds.

Decrease 1st at each side of marker every 4th round 0, 3 (4, 5) 6, 7 (13, 13) 16, 19 (19, 18) times,

Then decrease 1 st at each side of marker every other round 8, 5 (5, 6) 6, 6 (0, 3) 0, 0 (3, 7) times

Your decrease round should be worked as follow: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts of the round, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.

30, 32 (34, 34) 36, 36 (42, 42) 48, 50 (52, 54) sts

Knit every round until the sleeve measures 3½, 4½ (5, 5¾), 6¼, 7 (8¾, 9¾), 10¾, 11½ (13½, 14¼) in / 9, 11.5 (12.5, 14.5), 16, 17.5 (22.5, 25), 27, 29 (34, 36.5) cm from the pickup edge.

Switch to the smaller needles.

Work in k1p1 ribbing for 1, 1 (1.25, 1.25) 1.25, 1.25 (1.5, 1.5) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5) ins or 2.5, 2.5 (3, 3) 3, 3 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms. Bind off in pattern.

NECKBAND.

Using the smaller needles with RS facing, knit the 10, 11 (11, 11), 12, 12 (14, 14), 15, 16 (15, 16) held right-front neck stitches,

then 6, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 11) 11, 12 (14, 14) sts up right front of neck,

20, 22 (24, 24) 26, 26 (30, 30) 34, 36 (40, 42) sts from back neck,

6, 8 (8, 8) 9, 9 (9, 11) 11, 12 (14, 14) sts up left front and side of neck,

10, 11 (11, 11) 12, 12 (14, 14) 15, 16 (15, 16) sts on stitch hold on left front edge.

[52, 60 (62, 62) 68, 68 (76, 80) 86, 92 (98, 102) sts]

Work flat in 1×1 ribbing across the center stitches, keeping the first and last 6 sts in garter stitch for the button bands.

Work until the neckband measures 1½, 1½ (1¾, 1¾), 2, 2 (2¼, 2¼), 2¼, 2¼ (3, 3) in / 4, 4 (4.5, 4.5), 5, 5 (6, 6), 6, 6 (7.5, 7.5) cm from the pickup edge.

Work collar buttonholes and matching inner-layer openings as described in the buttonhole instructions. Bind off in pattern.

*Remember to work the right front button band as notated above in the right front neck shaping section. It is italicized. The left front button band is to continue in garter stitch throughout with no button holes. *

Bind off all sts in pattern.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Sew the button band cast on edge down making sure the right side is over the left side. Sew the buttons on the left button band to correspond with the buttonholes on the right button band. Block as desired.

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ABBREVIATIONS

CM – centimeters

K – knit                                                    

K2TOG – knit 2 stitches together
IN – inches
P – purl

PM – place marker                                  

RS – right side
SM – slip marker

SSK – slip the next 2 stitches individually knitwise, then knit them together through their back loops
ST – stitch

STS – stitches

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over

I’d love to hear what you think—are you more drawn to Henley-style sweaters like this, or do you stick with classic pullovers? Drop a comment below and tell me what you’re casting on next!

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