Dathan Socks: Free Basket Weave Sock Knitting Pattern

This basket weave sock knitting pattern is a free sock knitting pattern designed for knitters who want a textured, classic look without complicated techniques.

If you’ve ever struggled to find free sock knitting patterns that work for every size or feel repetitive, this pattern solves that by combining a simple basket weave stitch with a reliable top down heel flap construction. The basket weave sock knitting pattern is written for baby through large adult sizes, making it easy to knit for anyone without guessing or adjusting numbers.

If you’ve been wanting a textured sock that still uses simple knit and purl stitches, this pattern walks you through it step by step without overcomplicating things.

What materials do you need for this basket weave sock knitting pattern?

For this sock knitting pattern, I chose materials that are easy to find and reliable for everyday sock knitting. The goal here is to create a fabric that’s durable, comfortable, and shows off the texture clearly.

Materials:

KnitPicks Stroll works especially well here because it has enough structure to highlight the basket weave texture while still being soft enough for comfortable wear.

How is this basket weave sock knitting pattern constructed?

Dathan Socks pattern is worked from the top down, starting with the cuff and moving into a classic heel flap, heel turn, and gusset construction. If you’ve knit top down socks before, this will feel familiar, but the texture keeps it from feeling repetitive.

The basket weave stitch pattern is worked throughout the leg and foot, giving the finished socks a consistent, polished look. You can use either double pointed needles or the magic loop method, depending on your preference.

What else can I knit like Dathan Socks?

If you love this texture or top down socks, there are a few other patterns that use the same stitch pattern so you can create a matching set or use the same techniques that you know and love.

This makes it easy to build skills while creating pieces that coordinate together.

I love having a few go-to patterns like this that I can rotate through depending on what I feel like knitting next.

If you’re anything like me, once you find a texture you love, you’ll want to use it again—and these make that easy.

Dathan Socks Pattern

Materials:

Yarn: 1 (1, 1) 2, 2 (2, 3) skeins of KnitPicks Stroll (affiliate link) 231yd/50g Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)

Notions: stitch markers, needle

Gauge: 8sts x 11rows per inch

sizing:

baby (toddler, child,) lg child, adult S, (M, L)

Finished measurements (unstretched):

Foot Length (adjustable): 4 (6, 7.25), 8, 9, (10, 11.25)”

The model size is an adult medium for a show size of ladies US size 10. This pattern is ambidextrous so there are no special instructions for left-handed knitters.

Abbreviations can be found on the last page.

DAMASK STITCH PATTERN

Round 1 – knit across

Round 2 – [k3,p3] across

Round 3 – knit across

Round 4 – [k3,p3] across

Round 5 – knit across

Round 6 – [k3,p3] across

Round 7 – knit across

Round 8 – [k3,p3] across

Round 9 – knit across

Round 10 – [k3,p3] across

Round 11 – knit across

Round 12 – [p3,k3] across

Round 13 – knit across

Round 14 – [p3,k3] across

Round 15 – knit across

Round 16 – [p3,k3] across

Round 17 – knit across

Round 18 – [p3,k3] across

Round 19 – knit across

Round 20 – [p3,k3] across

Cuff

Cast on 36 (42, 48) 54, 60, (66, 72) sts, join for working in the round. Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:

1^stneedle 9 (9, 12) 12, 15 (15, 18) sts each needle

2^ndneedle 9 (12, 12) 15, 15 (18, 18) sts each needle

3^rdneedle 18 (21, 24) 27, 30 (33, 36) sts

If using magic loop, mark front and back using a stitch marker after the first 18 (21, 24) 27, 30 (33, 36) sts

Work in 1×1 rib (k1p1 around) for 8 (8, 10) 10, 12 (12, 14) rounds

Work in charted stitch pattern until piece measures 2.5 (3.5, 4) 4.5, 5, (6, 7)” from cast on (or desired length)

Heel Flap

Next round: work needles 1 and 2 in pattern. These worked stitches will now be placed on hold (you will NOT be using them for the heel).

The remaining 18 (21, 24) 27, 30 (33, 36) sts will be your heel worked as below:

Row 1 (RS): (sl1, k1) to end, turn work. (when working a size with odd number of stitches knit the last remaining stitch, do not slip it)

Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end, turn work.

Work rows 1-2 a total of 8 (10, 11) 12, 14, (15, 17) times.

This is a total of 16 (20, 22), 24, 28, (30, 34) rows.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k10 (13, 14), 15, 16, (19, 20), ssk, k1, turn work. Row 2 (WS): sl1, p5 (8, 7) 9, 6, (8, 7), p2tog, p1, turn work.

Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked:

12 (15, 16), 17, 18, (21, 22) sts remain.

Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.

Gusset

Pick up and knit 9 (10, 12), 14, 15, (16, 19) sts along the edge of heel flap, PM, Knit across 18 (21, 24) 27, 30 (33, 36) PM,

Pick up and knit 9 (10, 12), 14, 15, (16, 19) sts along heel flap,

K6 (8, 8) 9, 9, (11, 11) sts, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the foot). [48 (56, 64) 72, 78, (86, 96) sts]

Round 1: knit to marker, sm, work in pattern to marker, sm, knit to bor Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work in pattern to next marker, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 6 (7, 8) 9, 9, (10, 12) times.

[36 (42, 48) 54, 60, (66, 72) sts]

Foot

Continue working in the round in established charted stitch pattern until the piece measures 3 (5, 6) 6.5, 7, (8, 9)” from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1.5) 1.75, 2, (2, 2.25)” short of desired foot length.

Toe

Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]

Round 2: knit

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 5 (6, 7) 8, 9, (10, 10) times. until 16 (18, 20) 22, 24 (26, 24) sts remain.

For a left-handed tutorial of these decreases visit my youtube here

Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.

Weave in all ends

Kitchener stitch:

Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and bottom NOT side to side)

Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle. Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back) through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle. Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the needle.

Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle.

Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off the needle.

Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the needle.

From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.

Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:

Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,

Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,

Repeat!

At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.

Work steps 1 and 3 once more.

For a left-handed video tutorial of this visit my youtube here

Abbreviations

k – knit

P – purl

sl – slip stitch

sm – slip maker

pm – place marker

bor – beginning of round

st – stich

sts – stitches

k2tog -knit 2 stitches together

ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together

Ready to cast on your next pair of socks? This gorgeous sock knitting pattern is a simple way to create something textured, practical, and wearable for any size.

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