When it comes to knitting socks, I love a project that blends simplicity with a bit of flair, and that’s exactly what you get with the Elizabeth Sock. This free cable sock pattern is a top-down design with a heel flap construction, perfect for those who enjoy traditional sock knitting with a modern twist. I designed this pattern with all ages in mind—from baby through to large adult sizes—so it’s versatile enough to make matching family sets or a cozy gift for anyone in your life. This post will walk you through the details of the Elizabeth Sock and share some tips on making the most of this delightful cable sock pattern.

A Timeless Cable Sock Pattern

The Elizabeth Sock is more than just another sock design; it’s a classic with a touch of elegance. With a single cable running down the side of each sock, it adds a subtle decorative element without overwhelming the design. This makes it ideal for knitters who are new to cables or for those who simply love a bit of texture. The cable itself is easy to follow and runs smoothly alongside the basic ribbed stitch, giving the finished sock a nice, cozy stretch.

One of the things I love most about this cable sock pattern is that it allows you to showcase your favorite fingering weight sock yarn. From solid colors to hand-painted or self-striping yarns, this pattern can highlight the best of any colorway, thanks to its uncomplicated design. The cable detail stands out beautifully without competing with any color variations, making it a versatile go-to for every knitter.

Materials and Techniques: What You’ll Need for the Elizabeth Sock

To get started on the Elizabeth Sock, you’ll need a few basic materials:

• Yarn: Any fingering weight sock yarn works well with this cable sock pattern. The yarn you choose can make a big difference in the look of the sock, so feel free to experiment. Whether it’s a cozy wool blend or a more breathable cotton mix, fingering weight yarn keeps the sock light yet warm, and it’s easy to care for as well.
• Needles: I recommend 2.25mm (US size 1) needles for this pattern. Double-pointed needles, circulars, or the magic loop method are all options, depending on your preference. I personally enjoy using double-pointed needles for my socks, but the Elizabeth Sock is just as lovely when worked on circulars.

This cable sock pattern is worked from the top down, beginning with a stretchy ribbed cuff. From there, you’ll knit down the leg, incorporating the cable pattern as you go, before reaching the heel flap. I chose a heel flap construction because it provides durability and adds structure, making these socks last longer and fit comfortably.

Knitting the Cable: A Simple Detail with Maximum Impact

The cable design on the Elizabeth Sock is straightforward, making it accessible for knitters of all levels. This cable sock pattern uses a single, elegant cable that runs along the side of each sock, creating a subtle texture. The cable pattern is easy to follow with basic cabling techniques, so if you’re new to cables, this is a great starting point.

One of the things I love about this cable sock pattern is that it’s intuitive; once you’ve completed a few rows, you’ll get into the rhythm of the pattern and can knit it up fairly quickly. The simplicity of the cable also makes it easy to knit while watching a movie or chatting with friends because it doesn’t require constant chart-checking.

Sizing Options: A Cable Sock Pattern for the Whole Family

The Elizabeth Sock comes in a range of sizes, from baby through large adult. When I designed this pattern, I wanted it to be versatile enough to suit anyone in the family. Each size has been carefully calculated to ensure a good fit while keeping the cable design proportional to the sock’s overall dimensions.

For babies, this cable sock pattern makes an adorable gift that’s both practical and stylish. The cable adds a little sophistication to tiny socks, and they’re quick to knit up, so they make fantastic baby shower gifts. Moving up in size, the pattern adjusts seamlessly, so whether you’re knitting for a child, teen, or adult, the cable remains perfectly proportioned.

Yarn Choice: Adding Your Unique Spin to the Elizabeth Sock

As a knitter, I believe that the right yarn can elevate any cable sock pattern, and the Elizabeth Sock is no exception. Because it’s knit in fingering weight, you have a wide range of yarn choices. Here are some tips to help you pick the right yarn for your Elizabeth Socks:

1. Solid or Semi-Solid Colors: If you want the cable to really stand out, a solid or semi-solid yarn is an excellent choice. These colors allow the cable texture to be the focal point, and they look elegant and timeless.
2. Hand-Dyed or Variegated Yarns: For a more unique, artisanal look, try using a hand-dyed or variegated yarn. The simple nature of this cable sock pattern allows for some color variation without losing the detail of the cable. Just be mindful that highly contrasting colors might make the cable less noticeable.
3. Self-Striping Yarn: Believe it or not, the Elizabeth Sock works beautifully with self-striping yarn as well. The cable adds a little twist that stands out against the stripes, giving you a fun, quirky look.

Knitting Tips and Tricks for the Elizabeth Sock

Here are some tips to make your knitting process as smooth and enjoyable as possible:

• Swatch First: I can’t stress enough the importance of swatching. Because sock yarns vary in thickness even within the fingering weight category, swatching can help ensure that your socks fit well and that the cable looks just right. Take the time to check your gauge, especially since socks need a precise fit.
• Mark Your Cable Row: It’s helpful to mark your cable row in some way, whether it’s a stitch marker, a note in your pattern, or even a row counter app. This keeps you on track and makes it easier to know exactly when to twist the cable.
• Use a Cable Needle (or Not!): If you’re new to cables, a cable needle can be helpful for managing the stitches. However, once you’re comfortable with the cable pattern, you may find you can knit it without a cable needle, which can make your knitting quicker and less fiddly.
• Blocking: Blocking your socks after knitting will help the cable design to stand out and give the fabric a smooth, professional finish. Use sock blockers if you have them, but if not, lay them flat to dry in the shape of a sock.

Why I Love This Cable Sock Pattern

The Elizabeth Sock holds a special place in my collection of knitting patterns. I love that it’s both practical and beautiful, with just enough detail to make it interesting without being overly complicated. The cable sock pattern is versatile, and I can knit it in any color or type of fingering weight yarn that I have on hand, which makes it ideal for using up sock yarn stash as well.

Knitting socks has always been a favorite way to add handmade warmth to my daily wardrobe, and the Elizabeth Sock has become my go-to pattern for gifts. There’s something about knitting a pair of socks that feels personal, especially when you add a touch of cabling to make them extra special. And with sizes ranging from baby to adult, this cable sock pattern lets me share that sense of warmth and love with all ages.

Final Thoughts on the Elizabeth Sock Cable Sock Pattern

Whether you’re a seasoned sock knitter or someone just starting out, the Elizabeth Sock is a pattern you’ll want to try. This free cable sock pattern is both beginner-friendly and elegant, with the single cable giving the sock a refined look without being overly intricate. I hope you enjoy knitting these socks as much as I enjoyed designing them.

Happy knitting! I’d love to hear about your experience with the Elizabeth Sock cable sock pattern, so feel free to share your finished projects and any tips you discover along the way. And remember, every stitch brings a bit more warmth into the world.

Materials and Info

Yarn: approximately 150-475yds of fingering weight sock yarn

Needles: US #1 / 2.25mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)

Notions: stitch markers, needle

Gauge: 8sts x 11rows per inch

sizing:

baby (toddler, child,) lg child, adult S, (M, L)

Finished measurements (unstretched):  

Foot Length (adjustable): 4 (6, 7.25), 8, 9, (10, 11.25)”

Model is wearing an adult small. This pattern comes with instructions for ankle length and regular length legs. If you are a left-handed knitter (working left to right) there are no modifications required for this pattern.

Abbreviations
k – knit                                                        
P – purl
sm – slip maker                                                
pm – place marker

st – stitch

sts – stitches
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together

m1p – make one purlwise

w&t – wrap and turn – wrap the yarn around the next stitch, turn work

c2f – place next 2 sts onto cable needle, hold in front, knit next 2 sts, knit 2 sts from cable needle
c2b – place next 2 sts onto cable needle, hold in back, knit next 2 sts, knit 2 sts from cable needle

Elizabeth Cable Sock Pattern

Cuff

Cast on 40 (44, 52) 56, 60, (64, 72) sts, join for working in the round.

Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:

1^st  and 2^nd needle 10 (11, 13) 14, 15 (16, 18) sts each needle

3^rd needle 20 (22, 26) 28, 30 (32, 36) sts

Work in 1×1 rib (k1p1 around) for 16 (16, 20) 20, 24 (24, 28) rounds

Then work in pattern as follows:

Then work in pattern as follows:

Round 1 – [m1pw, K4, m1pw, k 11 (18, 22) 24, 26 (28, 32), m1pw, k4, m1pw, K4, m1pw, k 11 (18, 22) 24, 26 (28, 32), m1pw, k4]

46 (50, 58) 62, 66 (70, 78) sts distributed as:

12, (13, 15) 16, 17 (18, 20) sts on the 1^st and 2^nd needles

22 (24, 28) 30, 32 (34, 38) on the 3^rd needle

Round 2 – [p1, K4, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (28, 28), p1, k4, p1, K4, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (24, 28), p1, k4]

Round 3 – [p1, K4, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (28, 28), p1, k4, p1, K4, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (24, 28), p1, k4]

Round 4 – [p1, c2f, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (28, 28), p1, c2b, p1, c2f, p1, k  12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (28, 28), p1, c2b]

Round 5 – [p1, K4, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (28, 28), p1, k4, p1, K4, p1, k 12 (14, 18) 20, 22 (24, 28), p1, k4]

Ankle length

Work rounds 2-5 above for 4 (4, 6) 6, 8, (8, 10) rounds.

Full length

Work rounds 2-5 above until piece measures 2.5 (3.5, 4) 4.5, 5, (6, 7)” from cast on (or desired length)

Heel Flap

Next round: Work across the 1^st and 2^nd needles in pattern. Place these stitches on hold. The heel flap will be worked flat, turning after each row, with only the 22 (24, 28) 30, 32 (34, 38) on the 3^rd needle

Row 1 (RS): (sl1, k1) to end, turn work.

Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end, turn work.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 8 (10, 12), 13, 14, (16, 18) times.

This is a total of 16 (20, 24), 26, 28, (32, 36) rows.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k14 (14, 16), 18, 18, (18, 22), ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2 (WS): sl1, p9 (7, 7) 9, 7 (5, 9), p2tog, p1, turn work.

Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked:

16 (16, 18), 22, 20, (20, 24) sts remain.

Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.

Gusset

With needle 3, pick up and knit 9 (11, 13), 14, 15, (17, 19) sts along the edge of heel flap, PM,

Knit across 24, (26, 30) 32, 34 (36, 40) on needles 1 and 2 (combining them all to needle 1) PM,

Pick up and knit 9 (11, 13), 14, 15, (17, 19) sts along heel flap onto needle 2,

K8 (8, 9) 11, 10, (10, 12) sts onto needle 2, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the foot).

[58 (64, 74) 82, 84, (90, 102) sts]

Round 1: knit around

Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, knit to next marker, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 9) 11, 10, (11, 13) times.

[44 (48, 56) 60, 64, (68, 76) sts]

Foot

Transfer the first stitch on needle 1 and the last st on needle 2 (the edge purl sts) to needle 3.

Needle 1 should now have 22 (24, 28) 30, 32 (34, 38) sts

Needles 2 and 3 should both have 11 (12, 14) 15, 16 (17, 19) sts

The new beginning of round is now needle 1.

Continue working in the round in established pattern until the piece measures 3 (5, 6) 6.5, 7, (8, 9)” from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1.5) 1.75, 2, (2, 2.25)” short of desired foot length.

Toe

Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]

Round 2: knit

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 9) 10, 11, (11, 13) times. until 16 (16, 20) 20, 20, (24, 24) sts remain.

For a left-handed tutorial of these decreases visit my youtube here

Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.

Weave in all ends

Kitchener stitch:

Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and bottom NOT side to side)

Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.

Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back) through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.

Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the needle.

Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle.

Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off the needle.

Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the needle.

From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.

Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:

Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,

Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,

Repeat!

At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.

Work steps 1 and 3 once more.

For a left-handed video tutorial of this visit my youtube here

Elizabeth Sock PDF