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If you’re a knitting enthusiast looking for a new project, we have just the thing for you: a free knitting pattern for a raglan hooded bodysuit photo prop.

Designed with adorable babies in mind, this raglan hooded bodysuit is not only cute but also practical. Perfect for photo shoots, this pattern combines style and comfort. The raglan sleeves give it a modern twist, while the hood adds an extra touch of charm.

The best part? This pattern is completely free! Whether you’re an experienced knitter or just starting out, you can easily follow along and create this delightful piece. With step-by-step instructions you’ll be able to knit up this bodysuit in no time.

Choose your favorite yarn in the colors of your choice to make this project truly unique. From soft pastels to vibrant hues, the possibilities are endless. Imagine the adorable photos you can capture with a little one dressed in this cozy bodysuit! I used Knitpicks Wonderfluff. You can purchase it here and to be transparent, yes, I do make a small commision if you use this link but that is what keeps these knitting patterns free!

Whether you’re knitting for your own baby, knitting for your own photography business, or creating a handmade gift for a loved one, this raglan hooded bodysuit is sure to be a treasured item. So grab your knitting needles and get ready to embark on a new knitting adventure.

Materials and Info

Materials – 160-220yds of Knitpicks Wonderfluff, size 7 (4.5mm) 16ins circular needles, 4 stitch markers, yarn needle, crochet hook (for provisional cast on)

Gauge – 4sts/in GAUGE IS VERY, VERY IMPORTANT

SIZES – newborn – appx 13-14ins across, 11-12ins long, sitter – appx 16-17ins across, 13-14ins long
(hood not included in finished measurements)

Hooded Raglan Onesie is a top down raglan, the hood is added after the body is completed.

Hooded Raglan Bodysuit Pattern

NEWBORN
YOKE
Provisional cast on 28sts on your circular needle
Set up row – p4, place marker, p4, place marker, p12, place marker, p4, place marker, p4
Row 1 – [k1, m1, k to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, slm] repeat [to] across to last marker then k1, m1, k to 1 st before end, m1, k1 (38sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Repeat rows 1 and 2 3 times more (68sts)
Row 9 – [k to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, slm, k1, m1] repeat [to] across to last marker, knit remaining sts (76sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Repeat rows 9 and 10 3 more times (100sts)
SEPARATE SLEEVES AND JOIN IN THE ROUND
Row 1 – k16, bind off loosely 20sts, k28, bind of loosely 20sts, k12 removing all markers as you work this row (60sts)
Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row in front of the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1 st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. (a tutorial for this will be at the end if you are in need of photos) (56sts)
BODY
Knit across to 2st before the first of the bound off sleeve stitches, place a marker (this is now the beginning of your round), k1, k2tog, knit to 1 st before bound off sleeve sts, k2tog, k1 place marker (54sts)
Work in stockinette st for appx 6.5ins
SEPARATE LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts) keep the remaining front stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1 (14sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – knit across
Leave the remaining 15sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 24 sts for the front. Start work with right side facing.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1 (14sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other).
HOOD
Pick up the neck sts being held by your provisional cast on.
Inc row – [k1, m1] across to last st, k1 (55sts)
If you want your hood to have a pixie like point than you will work in stockinette st for 6.5 ins from the neck then move on to closing the hood. If you would like your hood to have a more rounded back than you will work to 5ins and shape as following:
Row 1 – k25, ssk, k1, k2tog, k25 (53sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k24, ssk, k1, k2tog, k24 (51sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Continue decreasing in this manner until your hood measures 6.5 ins from the neck.

To close the hood: split your stitches into two equal parts (understanding that there is one extra that will be worked in at the end). Fold the halves wrong sides together and Kitchener stitch the top of the hood closed.
Weave in all your ends and block to finish your bodysuit.

SITTER
YOKE
Provisional cast on 42sts on your circular needle
Set up row – p6, place marker, p6, place marker, p18, place marker, p6, place marker, p6
Row 1 – [k1, m1, k to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, slm] repeat [to] across to last marker then k1, m1, k to 1 st before end, m1, k1 (52sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Repeat rows 1 and 2 3 times more (82sts)
Row 9 – [k to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, slm, k1, m1] repeat [to] across to last marker, knit remaining sts (90sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Repeat rows 9 and 10 4 more times (122sts)
SEPARATE SLEEVES AND JOIN IN THE ROUND
Row 1 – k19, bind off loosely 24sts, k36, bind of loosely 24sts, k15 removing all markers as you work this row (74sts)
Leaving the remaining 4 sts of the row on your needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row in front of the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1 st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. (a tutorial for this will be at the end if you are in need of photos) (70sts)
BODY
Knit across to 2sts before the first of the bound off sleeve stitches, place a marker (this is now the beginning of your round), k1, k2tog (one stitch from either side of the bound of sleeve), knit to 1 st before bound off sleeve sts, k2tog, k1 place marker.
(68sts)
Work in stockinette st for appx 8ins
SEPARATE LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts) keep the remaining front stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across, turn
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 18- purl across
Row 19 – knit across
Leave the remaining 18sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 32sts for the front. Start work with right side facing.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 14- purl across
Row 15 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other).
HOOD
Pick up the neck sts being held by your provisional cast on.
Inc row – [k1, m1, k] across (63sts)
Purl across
Inc row – k3, m1, k6, m1,k45, m1, k6, m1, k3 (67sts)
If you want your hood to have a pixie like point than you will work in stockinette st for 8 ins from the neck then move on to closing the hood. If you would like your hood to have a more rounded back than you will work to 6.5ins and shape as following:
Row 1 – k31, ssk, k1, k2tog, k31 (65sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k30, ssk, k1, k2tog, k30 (63sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Continue decreasing in this manner until your hood measures 8 ins from the neck.
To close the hood: split your stitches into two equal parts (understanding that there is on extra that will be worked in at the end). Fold the halves wrong sides together and Kitchener stitch the top of the hood closed.
Weave in all your ends and block to finish your bodysuit.

Abbreviations and Tutorials

JOINING IN THE ROUND
Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row in front of the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1 st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. Now your work is joined in the round with a 4 stitch overlap.

Left Handed

Right Handed

Stitch key
K – knit

p – purl

St – stitch

slm – slip marker

K2tog – knit 2 together

m1 – make one

ssk – slip one st, slip one st, knit them both together

Download Raglan Hooded Bodysuit PDF

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