This free ladies cardigan pattern is a seamless, top-down layer you’ll reach for daily—and it also fits right into your lineup of favorite free sweater knitting pattern projects.
If you’ve ever wanted a cardigan that’s actually wearable (not just pretty on the needles), this one solves that. It’s designed for real life—easy to throw on, simple to knit, and flexible enough to style a dozen different ways. This free ladies cardigan pattern keeps things straightforward while still giving you a polished finish you’ll feel good wearing.
If you love knits that don’t sit in your closet collecting dust, this is for you.
It’s simple, practical, and one of those pieces you’ll keep reaching for without even thinking about it.
It’s also the kind of project that doesn’t feel overwhelming.
You can pick it up, make progress, and actually enjoy the process.
What materials work best for this free ladies cardigan pattern?
For this free ladies cardigan pattern, I used a soft, durable DK-weight yarn that holds up to everyday wear. My go-to is a smooth, anti-pilling yarn like Premier Yarns Anti-Pilling Everyday because it keeps the cardigan looking fresh even after lots of use. If you’re knitting for real life (kids, errands, laundry, repeat), that durability matters more than anything.
You’ll also want circular needles for the seamless construction and a smaller needle size for the ribbing to help everything sit nicely. Stitch markers are especially helpful here to keep your raglan increases clean and easy to follow.
Choosing the right yarn makes a big difference in how often you’ll actually wear your finished cardigan.
Soft, washable, and low-maintenance is always the goal here.
How do you knit this free ladies cardigan pattern from start to finish?
This free ladies cardigan pattern is worked top-down with raglan shaping, which means you can try it on as you go and adjust if needed. The yoke builds first, then you’ll separate for sleeves and move into a smooth stockinette body. It’s the kind of construction that feels steady and predictable in the best way.
One tip I always recommend is to stay consistent with your stitch markers—they make the increases almost effortless. And don’t skip blocking at the end. It really helps the ribbed edges relax and lay the way they should.
This is one of those projects where the process feels just as good as the finished piece.
You’ll get into a rhythm quickly, and before you know it, you’re binding off.
Looking for more patterns like this free ladies cardigan pattern?
If you’re loving this style, here are a few more patterns you might want to add to your list:
• Joanna Cardigan
• Wheat Cardigan
• Lodge Cardigan
• Rosemary Cardigan
• Youth September Cardigan
These all bring something a little different to the table, whether it’s texture, shape, or construction. It’s fun to see how small changes can completely change the feel of a finished piece.
You might even find yourself planning your next cast-on before this one is finished.
That tends to happen around here.
September Cardigan Free Pattern
Materials – sport weight (size 3) yarn 1075, 1140 (1220, 1305) 1385, 1500 (1605, 1680) 1770 yards, size 6 (4mm) circular needles (16-24ins), size 6 double pointed needles, size 5 (3.75mm) circular needles (24-36in), size 5 double pointed needles, stitch markers, yarn needle
Gauge -6sts/in
Sizes – 0-2, 2-4 (6-8, 10-12) 14-16, 18- 20 (22-24, 26-28) 30-32
Appx Finished Bust Measurements – 33, 35.5 (37.75, 42.5) 44, 49 (51.75, 56) 59.75 inches
September Cardigan was created for my daughters. I was looking for a specific pattern and couldn’t find it, so I made it! And then I fell in love with it and wanted one for me.
It’s designed to have 2-4ins of positive ease.
I chose to use Yarn Bee Must Be Merino as an affordable option that will hold up to the wear and tear of being a mom of 8
Abbreviations can be found at the end of the pattern.
YOKE
Cast on with U.S. 6 circular needle: 78, 80 (88, 92) 90, 92 (92, 96) 104 sts
Set up row (wrong side): 1. purl 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) 1 (right front), PM, purl 14, 14 (16, 16) 15, 12 (12, 12) 12 (right sleeve), PM, purl 48, 50 (54, 58) 58, 66 (66, 70) 78 (back), PM, purl 14, 14 (16, 16) 15, 12 (12, 12) 12 (left sleeve), PM, purl 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) 1 (left front).
Row 1 (right side): *knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, sm, kfb, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last stitch (8 stitches increased)
Row 2 (wrong side): purl
Repeat rows 1-2 for a total of 22, 25 (26, 30) 32, 36 (39, 43) 45 decreases. 254, 280 (298, 332), 346, 380 (404, 440) 464 sts
Work in Stockinette until yoke depth measures approx 7.5, 8 (9, 10) 10, 10.5 (10.5, 11) 11.5 inches from cast on row (making sure to end with a wrong side row worked last.
DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES
Remove markers as you get to them.
Knit to marker (left front), place the next 58, 64 (68, 76) 79, 84 (90, 98) 102 sts on a scrap piece of yarn (left sleeve), cast on using the backwards loop method 2, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3 (left underarm), knit 92, 100 (106, 118) 122, 138 (144, 156) 168 sts (back), place the next 58, 64 (68, 76) 79, 84 (90, 98) 102 sts on a scrap piece of yarn (right sleeve), cast on using the backwards loop method (3, 2), 3, 2, (2, 3) (right underarm), knit to end (right front). 142, 158 (166, 186) 194, 218 (230, 250) 266 body sts
SWEATER BODY
Work in stockinette until piece measures 11.5, 12 (12.5, 13) 13, 13.5 (13.5, 14) 14 inches or until desired length measuring from underarm. Make sure to end with a right side worked last.
RIBBED EDGE
Switch to the U.S. 5 circular needle. You will now start working in the round.
Place beginning of round marker, pick up and knit 98, 101 (109, 115) 116, 121, (121, 127) 127 sts from the front edge, knit the 78, 80 (88, 92) 90, 92 (92, 96) 104 sts of the neck cast on, pick up and knit 98, 101 (109, 115) 116, 121, (121, 127) 127 sts from the front edge, pm, knit across the 142, 158 (166, 186) 194, 218 (230, 250) 266 body sts 416, 440 (472, 508) 516, 552 (564, 600) 624 sts
Round 1 – (k2, p2) to 2sts before marker, k2, sm, (k2, p2) to 2sts before marker, k2
Round 2 – k1, m1l, work in established (k2,p2) pattern to 1st before next marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l, work in established (k2,p2) pattern to 1st before next marker, m1r, k1 (you have increased 4 sts)
Repeat rounds 1 and 2, working increased sts into the (k2,p2) pattern until rib measures approx.: 3, 3.5 (3.5, 3.5) 3.5, 3.5 (3.5, 3.5) 3.5 inches. Making sure to end with a round 2. Bind off all stitches in pattern loosely, break yarn and weave in ends.
SLEEVES
Work each sleeve one at a time as follows:
Pick up 2, 2 (2, 2) 3, 2 (2, 2) 2 sts from underarm, knit 58, 64 (68, 76) 79, 84 (90, 98) 102 sts of the sleeve on the scrap yarn, pick up 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2, (2, 2) 2 sts from underarm on to U.S. 6 double pointed needles, place marker at center underarm to keep track of the beginning of round. 62, 68 (72, 80) 84, 88 (94, 102) 106 sleeve sts
Decreases
Round 1: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Knit 8 rounds
Repeat the last 8 rounds: 7, 10 (12, 14) 14, 14 (15, 19) 19 total times). 44, 48 (48, 48) 52, 60 (60, 64) 68 sts
Knit each round under sleeve measure from under arm to working round approx. 15, 15.5 (15.5, 16) 16, 16 (17, 17) 17 inches
RIBBED CUFF
Switch to U.S. 5 double pointed needles.
Work in (k2, p2) ribbing until cuff measures approx.: 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5 inches or until desired length.
Bind of in pattern LOOSELY. Weave in all ends.
You will need to block the sweater to get the edging to lay flat instead of gathering. I prefer to use steam for this but a good wash in some wool wash and laying it out flat with some pins works wonders as well.
Abbreviations
k – knit
P – purl
Pm – place marker
Sm – slip marker
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
kfb – knit into the front and the back of the same stitch to increase by 1 stitch
m1l – pick up from front to back the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through back loop
m1r – pick up from back to front the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through the front loop
If you’re ready to knit something you’ll actually wear, this free ladies cardigan pattern is a great place to start. Once you make one, it’s hard not to want another in a different color.
I’d love to hear what yarn you’re thinking of using or how you’d style yours—drop a comment and tell me!
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