If you loved the youth version of September Cardigan your going to love the adult version for yourself. I originally made September Cardigan for my daughter and it looked so cute on her I HAD to have one for myself. As soon as hers was off my needles I cast on one for me. And I have no regrets.

I used the same yarn (Yarn Bee Must Be Merino dk) but picked a pretty earthy olive, sage green. It is so perfect for the rest of my wardrobe which is mostly black, grey and purple.

September Cardigan is such a versatile layering piece. I can pair it with a t-shirt and jeans or over a maxi dress and it still works. And the open front means it’s easy to get on and off. No buttons or fuss.

But honestly, I think the beauty of September Cardigan is no fuss in general. The design is so simply elegant. It’s a seamless, top-down raglan with the edging being knit in the round. It gives a beautiful front corner that is unique and special. The only down side to this style of edging is it REQUIRES blocking for it to lay properly. This is NOT one of those projects you can get away without blocking. For more info on blocking check out this blog post I wrote a few months ago.

To purchase an ad free pdf version on ravelry here, otherwise keep scrolling for the free pattern.

Materials and Info

Materials – sport weight (size 3) yarn 1075, 1140 (1220, 1305) 1385, 1500 (1605, 1680) 1770 yards, size 6 (4mm) circular needles (16-24ins), size 6 double pointed needles, size 5 (3.75mm) circular needles (24-36in), size 5 double pointed needles, stitch markers, yarn needle
Gauge -6sts/in
Sizes – 0-2, 2-4 (6-8, 10-12) 14-16, 18- 20 (22-24, 26-28) 30-32
Appx Finished Bust Measurements – 33, 35.5 (37.75, 42.5) 44, 49 (51.75, 56) 59.75 inches

September Cardigan was created for my daughters. I was looking for a specific pattern and couldn’t find it, so I made it! And then I fell in love with it and wanted one for me.

It’s designed to have 2-4ins of positive ease.

I chose to use Yarn Bee Must Be Merino as an affordable option that will hold up to the wear and tear of being a mom of 8

Abbreviations can be found at the end of the pattern.

September Cardigan Pattern

YOKE

Cast on with U.S. 6 circular needle: 78, 80 (88, 92) 90, 92 (92, 96) 104 sts

Set up row (wrong side): 1. purl 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) 1 (right front), PM, purl 14, 14 (16, 16) 15, 12 (12, 12) 12 (right sleeve), PM, purl 48, 50 (54, 58) 58, 66 (66, 70) 78 (back), PM, purl 14, 14 (16, 16) 15, 12 (12, 12) 12 (left sleeve), PM, purl 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) 1 (left front).

Row 1 (right side): *knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, sm, kfb, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last stitch (8 stitches increased)

Row 2 (wrong side): purl

Repeat rows 1-2 for a total of 22, 25 (26, 30) 32, 36 (39, 43) 45 decreases. 254, 280 (298, 332), 346, 380 (404, 440) 464 sts

Work in Stockinette until yoke depth measures approx 7.5, 8 (9, 10) 10, 10.5 (10.5, 11) 11.5 inches from cast on row (making sure to end with a wrong side row worked last.

DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES

Remove markers as you get to them.

Knit to marker (left front), place the next 58, 64 (68, 76) 79, 84 (90, 98) 102 sts on a scrap piece of yarn (left sleeve), cast on using the backwards loop method 2, 3 (3, 3) 3, 3 (3, 3) 3 (left underarm), knit 92, 100 (106, 118) 122, 138 (144, 156) 168 sts (back), place the next 58, 64 (68, 76) 79, 84 (90, 98) 102 sts on a scrap piece of yarn (right sleeve), cast on using the backwards loop method (3, 2), 3, 2, (2, 3) (right underarm), knit to end (right front).  142, 158 (166, 186) 194, 218 (230, 250) 266 body sts

SWEATER BODY

Work in stockinette until piece measures 11.5, 12 (12.5, 13) 13, 13.5 (13.5, 14) 14 inches or until desired length measuring from underarm. Make sure to end with a right side worked last.

RIBBED EDGE

Switch to the U.S. 5 circular needle. You will now start working in the round.

Place beginning of round marker, pick up and knit 98, 101 (109, 115) 116, 121, (121, 127) 127 sts from the front edge, knit the 78, 80 (88, 92) 90, 92 (92, 96) 104 sts of the neck cast on, pick up and knit 98, 101 (109, 115) 116, 121, (121, 127) 127 sts from the front edge, pm, knit across the 142, 158 (166, 186) 194, 218 (230, 250) 266 body sts 416, 440 (472, 508) 516, 552 (564, 600) 624 sts

Round 1 – (k2, p2) to 2sts before marker, k2, sm, (k2, p2) to 2sts before marker, k2

Round 2 – k1, m1l, work in established (k2,p2) pattern to 1st before next marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l, work in established (k2,p2) pattern to 1st before next marker, m1r, k1 (you have increased 4 sts)

Repeat rounds 1 and 2, working increased sts into the (k2,p2) pattern until rib measures approx.: 3, 3.5 (3.5, 3.5) 3.5, 3.5 (3.5, 3.5) 3.5 inches. Making sure to end with a round 2. Bind off all stitches in pattern loosely, break yarn and weave in ends.

SLEEVES

Work each sleeve one at a time as follows:

Pick up 2, 2 (2, 2) 3, 2 (2, 2) 2 sts from underarm, knit 58, 64 (68, 76) 79, 84 (90, 98) 102 sts of the sleeve on the scrap yarn, pick up 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2, (2, 2) 2 sts from underarm on to U.S. 6 double pointed needles, place marker at center underarm to keep track of the beginning of round. 62, 68 (72, 80) 84, 88 (94, 102) 106 sleeve sts

Decreases

Round 1: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.

Knit 8 rounds

Repeat the last 8 rounds: 7, 10 (12, 14) 14, 14 (15, 19) 19 total times). 44, 48 (48, 48) 52, 60 (60, 64) 68 sts

Knit each round under sleeve measure from under arm to working round approx. 15, 15.5 (15.5, 16) 16, 16 (17, 17) 17 inches

RIBBED CUFF

Switch to U.S. 5 double pointed needles.

Work in (k2, p2) ribbing until cuff measures approx.: 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5 inches or until desired length.

Bind of in pattern LOOSELY. Weave in all ends.

You will need to block the sweater to get the edging to lay flat instead of gathering. I prefer to use steam for this but a good wash in some wool wash and laying it out flat with some pins works wonders as well.

Abbreviations

k – knit
P – purl
Pm – place marker
Sm – slip marker
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
kfb – knit into the front and the back of the same stitch to increase by 1 stitch
m1l – pick up from front to back the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through back loop
m1r – pick up from back to front the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through the front loop