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Newborn photography is an art that captures the precious first moments of a baby’s life, preserving them for a lifetime. One of the key elements in creating stunning newborn photographs is the use of carefully crafted props. Among these, the Willow Onesie, a delicate creation made from mohair lace yarn, stands out as an exceptional choice for both photographers and parents alike.
The Allure of the Willow Onesie
The Willow Onesie is a beautifully designed piece that combines elegance with comfort. Made from the mohair lace yarn, it offers a soft, ethereal quality that is perfect for newborn photography. The intricate lace pattern adds a touch of sophistication, making the onesie a standout piece in any photoshoot. Its delicate nature not only enhances the baby’s natural beauty but also adds a timeless quality to the images.
Why Mohair Lace Yarn?
Mohair lace yarn is renowned for its luxurious texture and delicate appearance. Sourced from the fleece of Angora goats, mohair is incredibly soft and has a natural sheen that reflects light beautifully. This makes it an ideal material for photography props, as it gently wraps around the baby, creating a dreamy, cloud-like effect. The lightness of the yarn ensures that the baby remains comfortable, while its warmth keeps them cozy during the shoot. I personally love KnitPicks Aloft. It is the fluffiest of all the brands I have tried. You can purchase the yarn for this project here.
Perfect for Newborn Photography
Newborns are best photographed within the first two weeks of life when they are still in their sleepy, curled-up stage. The Willow Onesie is designed to complement this natural pose, providing a snug fit that highlights the baby’s tiny features. The onesie’s lace pattern allows for subtle peek-a-boo moments of baby skin, adding an extra layer of sweetness to the images.
Versatility in Styling
The Willow Onesie is incredibly versatile and can be styled in numerous ways to create different looks. Pair it with a simple, soft backdrop for a minimalist, ethereal aesthetic, or add floral crowns and delicate blankets for a more whimsical, fairy-tale setting. Its many color options blend seamlessly with various props and themes, making it a go-to choice for photographers who want to keep their sessions fresh and diverse.
Capturing the Essence of New Life
Every detail of the Willow Onesie is designed with care, ensuring it enhances the overall photography experience. The combination of mohair lace yarn and delicate neck detailing makes it more than just a piece of clothing; it becomes a treasured keepsake. As parents look back on their newborn’s photos, the Willow Onesie will be a beautiful reminder of those fleeting, precious moments.
Conclusion
The Willow Onesie, with its delicate design and luxurious materials, is a perfect addition to any newborn photography session. Its ability to capture the softness and purity of a newborn makes it a cherished prop for both photographers and parents. As you prepare for your next newborn photoshoot, consider the Willow Onesie as a way to add a touch of elegance and timeless beauty to your images.
Materials and Info
Materials: 100-200 yds of lace weight (size 0) mohair yarn (I used knitpicks aloft), size 6 (4 mm) 16in long circular needles, yarn needle, 2 stitch markers, size 3.25mm crochet hook, 3 buttons (3/8in – 1/2in)
Gauge: 5.5sts/in ~GAUGE IS VERY IMPORTANT~
Finished Measurements:
nb (13ins chest, 12.5ins long)
3mths (15ins, 14ins long),
6mth (17ins chest, 16ins long)
Willow Onesie Pattern
NEWBORN
YOKE
Cast on 56sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – k4, p48, k4
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – k4, p48, k4
Row 4 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, [w2, sl1, k2tog, psso] repeat [to] to last 4sts, yo, k4
Row 5 – k4, p2, p1 into 1st wrap, k1 into 2nd wrap, [p1, p1 into 1st wrap, k1 into 2nd wrap] repeat [to] to last 6sts, p2, k4
Row 6 – k4, [m1, k4] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (68sts)
Row 7 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 10 – k4, [m1, k5] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (80sts)
Row 11 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 12 – knit across
Row 13 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 14 – k4, [m1, k6] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (92sts)
Row 15 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 16 – knit across
Row 17 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 18 – k4, [m1, k7] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (104sts)
Row 19 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 22 – buttonhole row- k2, yo, k2tog, [m1, k24] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (108sts)
Row 23 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
ARMS
Row 24 – k17, bind off 22, k30, bind off 22, k17 (64sts)
Row 25 – k4, purl to armhole, cast on 2, place marker (this will become your start of round marker when you join in the round), purl to armhole, place marker, cast on 2, purl to last 4sts, k4 (68sts)
BODY
Row 26 – knit across
Row 27 – k4, purl across to last 4sts, k4
Repeat rows 26 and 27 5 more times
Row 38 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k64
Row 39 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 40 – knit to the last 4 sts, join the button band as follows: Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row behind the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. (a tutorial for this will be at the end if you need photos) (64sts)
Continue working in stockinette stitch until your work measures 6.5ins from row 25 armhole cast on.
LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts) keep the remaining 34 back stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – knit across
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – knit across
Leave the remaining 16sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 34 sts for the back. Start work with right side facing.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other).
Neck Edging – using your crochet hook – with right side facing sl1 into the edge st under the first yo, ch3, sl1 into first ch, ch1, sl1 into edge st under the next w2, [ch3, sl1 into first ch, ch1, sl1 into edge st under the next w2], repeat [to] until you reach the edge under the last yo, sl1 into the edge st under the last yo.
Weave in all ends. Block as needed.
3 MONTH
YOKE
Cast on 65sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – k4, p57, k4
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – k4, p57, k4
Row 4 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, [w2, sl1, k2tog, psso] repeat [to] to last 4sts, yo, k4
Row 5 – k4, p2, p1 into 1st wrap, k1 into 2nd wrap, [p1, p1 into 1st wrap, k1 into 2nd wrap] repeat [to] to last 6sts, p2, k4
Row 6 – k4, k9, [m1, k4] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (77sts)
Row 7 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 10 – k4, k9, [m1, k5] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (89sts)
Row 11 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 12 – knit across
Row 13 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 14 – k4, k9, [m1, k6] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (101sts)
Row 15 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 16 – knit across
Row 17 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 18 – k4, k9, [m1, k7] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (113sts)
Row 19 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 22 – buttonhole row- k2, yo, k2tog, m1, k9, [m1, k8] repeat [to] to last 4 sts, k4 (126sts)
Row 23 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 24 – knit across
Row 25 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 26 – knit across
Row 27 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
ARMS
Row 28 – k21, bind off 25, k34, bind off 25, k21 (76sts)
Row 29 – k4, purl to armhole, cast on 1, place marker (this will become your start of round marker when you join in the round), cast on 1, purl to armhole, cast on 1, place marker, cast on 1 purl to last 4sts, k4 (80sts)
BODY
Row 30 – knit across
Row 31 – k4, purl across to last 4sts, k4
Repeat rows 30 and 31 3 more times
Row 38 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k76
Row 39 – k4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 40 – knit to the last 4 sts, join the button band as follows: Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row behind the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. (a tutorial for this will be at the end if you need photos) (76sts)
Continue working in stockinette stitch until your work measures 7.5ins from row 29 armhole cast on.
LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts) keep the remaining 40 back stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – knit across
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – knit across
Leave the remaining 18sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 40 sts for the back. Start work with right side facing.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1 (18sts)
Row 22 – purl across
Row 23 – k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1 (16sts)
Row 24 – purl across
Row 25 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other).
Neck Edging – using your crochet hook – with right side facing sl1 into the edge st under the first yo, ch3, sl1 into first ch, ch1, sl1 into edge st under the next w2, [ch3, sl1 into first ch, ch1, sl1 into edge st under the next w2], repeat [to] until you reach the edge under the last yo, sl1 into the edge st under the last yo.
Weave in all ends. Block as needed.
6 MONTH
YOKE
Cast on 73sts.
Row 1 (wrong side) – k5, p63, k5
Row 2 – knit across
Row 3 – k5, p63, k5
Row 4 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, [w2, sl1, k2tog, psso] repeat [to] to last 5sts, yo, k5
Row 5 – k5, p2, p1 into 1st wrap, k1 into 2nd wrap, [p1, p1 into 1st wrap, k1 into 2nd wrap] repeat [to] to last 7sts, p2, k5
Row 6 – k8, [m1, k6] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (83sts)
Row 7 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 8 – knit across
Row 9 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 10 – k8, [m1, k7] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (93sts)
Row 11 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 12 – knit across
Row 13 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 14 – k8, [m1, k8] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (103sts)
Row 15 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 16 – knit across
Row 17 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 18 – k8, [m1, k9] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (113sts)
Row 19 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 20 – knit across
Row 21 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 22 – buttonhole row- k2, yo, k2tog k4, [m1, k10] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (123sts)
Row 23 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 24 – knit across
Row 25 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 26 – k8, [m1, k11] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (133sts)
Row 27– k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 28 – knit across
Row 29 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 30 – k8, [m1, k12] repeat [to] to last 5 sts, k5 (143sts)
Row 31 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 32 – knit across
Row 33 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
ARMS
Row 34 – k23, bind off 27, k42, bind off 27, k24 (89sts)
Row 35 – k5, purl to armhole, cast on 2, place marker, purl to armhole, place marker (this will become your start of round marker when you join in the round), cast on 2, purl to last 5sts, k5 (93sts)
BODY
Row 36 – knit across
Row 37 – k5, purl across to last 5sts, k5
Repeat rows 32 and 33 1 more time
Row 40 – buttonhole row – k2, yo, k2tog, k89
Row 41 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 42- knit across
Row 43 – k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 44 – knit to the last 5 sts, join the button band as follows: Place the remaining 5 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 5 stitches on your needle from the previous row behind the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 4 more times. (a tutorial for this will be at the end if you need photos) (88sts)
Continue working in stockinette stitch until your work measures 9ins from row 35 armhole cast on.
LEGS
Starting at your beginning of round marker you will now start working flat again:
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k36, k2tog, k1 (40sts) keep the remaining 46 back stitches on a stitch holder. Turn work.
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 22 – purl across
Row 23 – knit across
Row 24 – purl across
Row 25 – knit across
Leave the remaining 20sts on a stitch holder. Pick up the 46 sts for the back. Start work with right side facing.
Row 1 – k1, ssk, k40, k2tog, k1 (44sts)
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k1, ssk, k38, k2tog, k1 (42sts)
Row 4 – purl across
Row 5 – k1, ssk, k36, k2tog, k1 (40sts).
Row 6 – purl across
Row 7 – k1, ssk, k34, k2tog, k1 (38sts)
Row 8 – purl across
Row 9 – k1, ssk, k32, k2tog, k1 (36sts)
Row 10 – purl across
Row 11 – k1, ssk, k30, k2tog, k1 (34sts)
Row 12 – purl across
Row 13 – k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (32sts)
Row 14 – purl across
Row 15 – k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (30sts)
Row 16 – purl across
Row 17 – k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1 (28sts)
Row 18 – purl across
Row 19 – k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1 (26sts)
Row 20 – purl across
Row 21 – k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1 (24sts)
Row 22 – purl across
Row 23 – k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1 (22sts)
Row 24 – purl across
Row 25 – k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1 (20sts)
Row 26 – purl across
Row 27 – knit across
Now you will kitchener st the front and back leg opening pieces together (making sure wrong sides are facing each other).
Neck Edging – using your crochet hook – with right side facing sl1 into the edge st under the first yo, ch3, sl1 into first ch, ch1, sl1 into edge st under the next w2, [ch3, sl1 into first ch, ch1, sl1 into edge st under the next w2], repeat [to] until you reach the edge under the last yo, sl1 into the edge st under the last yo.
Weave in all ends. Block as needed.
Stitch Key and Tutorials
K – knit
P – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
sl – slip
yo – yarn over
sm – slip marker
w2 – yo 2 times
m1 – make one
ssk – slip, slip, knit
JOINING IN THE ROUND
Place the remaining 4 sts of the row on a spare needle. You will now start working in the round. Place the remaining 4 stitches on your needle from the previous row in front of the first 4 sts of the row stacking them so you can knit them together (making sure the right side is facing you. Remember we are joining in the round so make sure there is no twist in your work.) Now knit the 1st of the remaining sts together with the first st of the row. Do this 3 more times. Now your work is joined in the round with a 4 stitch overlap.
Download Willow Onesie Pattern
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