Love Came Down Sweater is a free bottom up raglan sweater pattern that makes a beautiful addition to your collection of free sweater knitting patterns, especially if you’ve been wanting something that feels classic but still has a little personality.

If you’ve ever struggled to find a sweater pattern that’s structured, easy to follow, and still interesting to knit, this one solves that problem in the best way. This Love Came Down Sweater: A Free Bottom Up Raglan Sweater Pattern With Heart Details walks you through a seamless, in-the-round construction with clear shaping and eye-catching cable details that don’t feel overwhelming. It’s a great next step if you’re ready to move beyond basic garments and into something a little more memorable.

If you love free sweater knitting patterns that give you that steady, satisfying progress from hem to neckline, this one really delivers. The construction is predictable in the best way, while the heart cable panels keep things fun and engaging without slowing you down.

It’s the kind of project that feels relaxing to knit but still looks like you put a lot of thought into it. And honestly, those are always my favorite.

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What materials do I need for this bottom up raglan sweater pattern?

For this Love Came Down Sweater: A Free Bottom Up Raglan Sweater Pattern With Heart Details, I used KnitPicks Wonderfluff, and it ended up being exactly what I wanted for both look and feel. It’s soft, slightly airy, and gives the cables just enough definition without making the fabric feel heavy. That balance matters so much when you’re working with textured stitches.

You’ll also need circular needles in two sizes for the ribbing and body, along with double-pointed needles for the sleeves. Stitch markers are a must here since they help keep your raglan shaping and cable sections nice and organized.

Once everything is on your needles, you’ll notice pretty quickly how smoothly this yarn glides and how nicely the stitches settle into place.

This is one of those combinations where the yarn really supports the design instead of fighting it. The softness makes it wearable, and the structure keeps it looking polished.

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How does this bottom up raglan sweater pattern come together?

This bottom up raglan sweater pattern is worked in the round from the hem up, which means you get to watch it grow in a really satisfying way. You’ll start with the body, then knit the sleeves separately before joining everything together for the raglan shaping.

The heart cable panels run up the sides of the body and continue into the sleeves, which gives the whole sweater a really balanced look. It’s a small detail, but it makes a big difference in how finished the sweater feels.

The raglan decreases are straightforward and clearly written, so even if this is your first time working this construction, it’s very doable. Just take it step by step and trust the process.

By the time you reach the yoke, everything starts to come together quickly, and that’s always the most exciting part. It’s one of those moments where you can really see the sweater take shape.

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Looking for more free sweater knitting patterns like this one?

If you’re loving this style, here are a few more patterns worth checking out:

• Youth Peter Sweater
• Youth Saffron Pullover
• Child Grace Pullover
• Child Anna Cardigan
• Youth Dathan Pullover

Each of these patterns brings something a little different to the table, whether it’s texture, construction, or overall style. They’re all great options if you want to keep building your skills while still making pieces that actually get worn.

If you enjoy knitting sweaters that feel practical but still look special, this Love Came Down Sweater: A Free Bottom Up Raglan Sweater Pattern With Heart Details fits right in with that kind of wardrobe. It’s warm, wearable, and just detailed enough to keep things interesting.

MATERIALS AND INFO

Size: 0-3m, 3-6m (6-12m, 12m) 18m, 24m (3/4y, 5/6y) 7/8y, 9/10y (11/12y, 13/14yrs)

Materials: Approximately 225, 275 (310, 355) 390, 420 (500, 585) 680, 785 (930, 1045) yds of KnitPicks Wonderfluff 50g/142yds , yarn needle, stitch markers

Needle Size: 9(US) 5.5mm circular needles and dpn, 8(US) 5mm circular and dpn

Gauge (tension): 17sts & 24 rows to make 10cm square, using size 9(US) 5.5mm needles working in stockinette stitch

Chest Measurement: 41, 44 (47, 50), 52, 54 (57, 61) 66, 72 (78, 84) cm or 16, 17.5 (18.5, 19.5) 20.5, 21.5 (22.5, 24) 26, 28.5 (30.5, 33) ins

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METHOD

Love Came Down is a bottom-up raglan pullover. It is worked in the round with cables on the sides and the top of the sleeves. Created for our 4th child. She wanted something for Christmas that she could also wear all year.

Abbreviations can be found on the last page.

Note: choose size based on chest measurement for best fit. Measurements above are measurement of the person not sweater measurements.

Cable Heart Stitch Chart

Row 1 – p1, k4, cb1/2, cf2/1, k4, p1

Row 2 – p1, tf2/1, cb1/2, k2, cf2/1, tb1/2, p1

Row 3 – p2, k1, cb1/2, k4, cf2/1, k1, p2

Row 4 – p2, cb1/2, k6, cf2/1, p2

Row 5 – p2, k12, p2

Row 6 – p2, k12, p2

Row 7 – p1, cb1/2, k8, cf2/1, p1

Row 8 – p1, k14, p1

Row 9 – p1, k14, p1

Row 10 – p1, k14, p1

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PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

Body

Cast on 88, 96 (100, 104) 108, 112 (116, 124) 132, 140 (152, 160) sts using the smaller circular needles and pm for bor.

Work in 1×1 rib (k1p1 around) for 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 3, 3 (3, 3) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms/ 1, 1 (1, 1) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5)ins

Switch to larger size circular needles.

Set-up round – k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33), pm, p1, k4, m1, k4, m1, k4, p1, pm (these stitches will be your charted stitch pattern), k30, 34 (36, 38) 40, 42 (44, 48) 52, 56 (62, 66), pm, p1, k4, m1, k4, m1, k4, p1, pm (these stitches will be your charted stitch pattern), k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33)

[92, 100 (104, 108) 112, 116 (120, 128) 136, 144 (156, 164)sts]

Work as follows: k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33), sm, work charted stitch pattern, sm, k30, 34 (36, 38) 40, 42 (44, 48) 52, 56 (62, 66), sm, work charted stitch pattern, sm, k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33) for 14, 15 (17.5, 19.5) 21, 22.5 (24, 25) 27.5, 30 (32, 35) cm or 5.5, 6 (7, 7.75) 8.5, 9 (9.5, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14) measuring from cast on.

Last Row – work 19, 21 (22, 23) 24, 25 (26, 28) 28, 31 (34, 36)sts in pattern removing chart stitch markers as you get to them (this end the cable for the bottom under arm), bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 8) 10, 10 (10, 10)sts, work 38, 42 (44, 46) 48, 50 (52, 56) 56, 62 (68, 72)sts in pattern removing chart stitch markers as you get to them (this end the cable for the bottom under arm), bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 8) 10, 10 (10, 10)sts, work 19, 21 (22, 23) 24, 25 (26, 28) 28, 31 (34, 36)sts in pattern removing chart stitch markers as you get to them (this end the cable for the bottom under arm).

Put all stitches aside DO NOT CUT YARN.

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Sleeves (make 2)

Cast on now 22, 24 (24, 24) 26, 26 (28, 30) 32, 34 (36, 38) sts on smaller dpn needles and join in the round.

Work in k1p1 ribbing 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 3, 3 (3, 3) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms/ 1, 1 (1, 1) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5)ins

Switch to larger dpn needles

Set-up round – k3, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11), pm, p1, k4, m1, k4, m1, k4, p1, pm, k3, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (8, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11)

You will now have 24, 26 (26, 26) 28, 28 (30, 32) 34, 36 (38, 40) sts on the needles

Work in pattern for 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) rounds

Next row:

Increase 1 sts on beginning and end of round every other round 3, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times,

Then increase 1 sts on each side every 4^th round 2, 5 (6, 4) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times,

Then increase 1 sts on each side every 6^th round 0, 0 (0, 2) 4, 6 (4, 0) 2, 0 (0, 0) times,

Then increase 1 sts on each side every 8^th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 1, 0 (1, 1) 0, 0 (0, 0) times,

Then increase 1 sts on each side every 10^th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 5) 0, 4 (7, 4) times,

Then increase 1 sts on each side every 12^th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 4, 2 (0, 3) times,

[34, 36 (38, 38) 38, 40 (40, 44) 46, 48 (52, 54) sts]

Continue working pattern until work measures 11.5, 13.5 (15.5, 17.5) 19, 20.5 (26.5, 29) 29.5, 33 (38, 38) cms or 4.5, 5.25 (6, 7) 7.5, 8 (10.5, 11.5) 11.75, 13 (15, 16) ins from cast on edge. Bind off all stitches leaving a long enough tail to sew the sleeve on.

Work 30, 32 (34, 34) 34, 36 (36, 40) 41, 43 (47, 49) sts, Bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (5, 5) sts, sl bor marker, Bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (5, 5) sts

[26, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 36) 36, 38 (42, 44)]

Cut yarn leaving enough to weave in ends, put aside on a stitch holder.

Now connect the sleeves and body, while keeping in cable pattern as follows:

Back: k18, 20 (21, 22) 23, 24 (25, 27) 27, 30 (33, 35), pm, k1, pm

Sleeve: Work 26, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 36) 36, 38 (42, 44) sts from stitch holder, pm

Front: k1, pm, k36, 40 (42, 44) 46, 48 (50, 54) 54, 60 (66, 70) sts in pattern, pm, k1, pm

Sleeve: Work 26, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 36) 36, 38 (42, 44) sts from stitch holder, pm

Back: k18, 20 (21, 22) 23, 24 (25, 27) 27, 30 (33, 35)

You know have 128, 140 (148, 152) 156, 164 (168, 184) 184, 200 (220, 232) sts

Work 1 round

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RAGLAN DECREASES

Work raglan decreases as follows:

knit to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, knit to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, knit to bor marker (8sts decreased).

Work raglan decreases as described above. Remember as you are decreasing to keep the cable on the sleeve in pattern as long as possible:

Every 4^th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (2, 2) 3, 4 (4, 4) times,

Then every other round 6, 7 (8, 8) 8, 9 (7, 9) 8, 8 (10, 11) times.

[80, 84 (84, 88) 92, 92 (96, 96) 96, 104 (108, 112)]

Raglan shaping and neck shaping are worked AT THE SAME TIME using short rows for the last 4 raglan decreases. You can use the method of short rows that works best for you. I am using wrap and turn short rows and describe those below.

Row 1 (RS): knit to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, k2, w&t

Step 2 (WS): Purl to beginning of round marker (mid back).  

Step 3 (WS): purl to 2sts before marker, p2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssp, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, p2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssp, p2, w&t

Step 4 (RS): Purl to beginning of round marker (mid back).  

A total of 8 stitches have been increased in these 4 steps (the 4 steps equals 1 raglan increases) Repeat steps 1-4, knitting the wraps and the next stitch as you pass them, 3 more times, so the last 4 raglan decreases have been worked.

[48, 52 (52, 56) 60, 60 (64, 64) 64, 72 (76, 80)]

Work more 1 more round in pattern knitting the wraps as you get to them.

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NECK

Switch to smaller circular needles.

Work in k1p1 ribbing for 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) cms/ .75, .75 (.75, .75) .75, .75 (.75, .75) 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) ins

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FINISHING

Stitch the underarms closed. I prefer a kitchener st but you can use your preferred st. Weave in all ends and block as desired

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ABBREVIATIONS

bor – beginning of round

cb1/2 – cable back 1 behind 2 – place the next st on a cable needle, hold in back, knit the next 2 sts, knit the st on the cable needle

cf2/1 – cable front 2 over 1 – place the next 2 sts on a cable needle, hold them in front, knit the next st, knit the 2 sts on the cable needle

k – knit

k2tog -knit 2 stitches together

m1l – pick up from front to back the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through back loop

m1r – pick up from back to front the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through the front loop

P – purl

p2tog -purl 2 stitches together

pm – place marker

sm – slip marker

ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together

ssp – slip next st purlwise, slip next st purlwise, place stitches back onto left needle, purl both slipped sts together

tb1/2 – twist back 1 behind 2 – place the next st on a cable needle, hold in back, knit the next 2 sts, purl the st on the cable needle

tf2/1 – twist front 2 over 1 – place the next 2 sts on a cable needle, hold them in front, purl the next st, knit the 2 sts on the cable needle

If you end up casting this one on, I’d love to hear who you’re making it for or what yarn you choose. Leave a comment below and let’s talk knitting!

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