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Layering is the name of the game in winter. And Youth September Cardigan has become the favorite layering piece for both of my older daughters. They wear the same size and share their clothes (by choice mind you! They love having double the options.) This sweater has gotten it’s use since I first made it in September. At least once a week, if not more, one of those 2 girls is wearing it. It’s comfortable, easy to wear, and warm. What more could a girl want?!
Youth September Cardigan is made with Yarn Bee Must Be Merino DK. It is such an easy care, tough yarn. I am very pleased with how well it has handled the amount of use these girls have put it through as well as how easy it is to wash it. And can we talk colors? The earthy tones are totally my style. My only problem with this yarn is that it is VERY splitty when working with it. But for all the other perks, I tolerate it. You can pick up this yarn at Hobby Lobby so it’s also a great affordable option for someone on a budget.
If you hate sewing, this is the sweater for you! Youth September Cardigan is a top down raglan with sleeves AND edging knit in the round. I highly, HIGHLY recommend blocking your completed sweater to really allow the in-the-round edge ribbing to shine. I know that’s a dirty word to some people but it really makes all the difference for this sweater.
If you love Youth September Cardigan, check out the adult version here.
Check out all of our free patterns here.
Materials and Info
Materials • sport weight (size 3) yarn (530, 645), 760, 795, (825, 940), size 6 (4mm) circular needles (16-24ins), size 6 double pointed needles, size 5 (3.75mm) circular needles (24-36in), size 5 double pointed needles, stitch markers, yarn needle
Gauge -6sts/in
Sizes – (1-2yr, 3-4yr), 5-6yr, 7-8yr, (9-10yr, 11-13yr)
Appx Finished Bust Measurements – (23, 24.75), 25.5, 27 (28.25, 29.75) inches
Youth September Cardigan Pattern
YOKE
Cast on with U.S. 6 circular needle: (58, 60), 60, 68, (70, 72) sts
Set up row (wrong side): 1. purl (1, 1), 1, 1, (1, 1)(right front), PM, purl (12, 12), 12, 14, (14, 14) (right sleeve), PM, purl (32, 34), 34, 38, (40, 42) (back), PM, purl (12, 12), 12, 14, (14, 14) (left sleeve), PM, purl (1, 1), 1, 1, (1, 1) (left front).
Row 1 (right side): *knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, sm, kfb, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last stitch (8 stitches increased)
Row 2 (wrong side): purl
Repeat rows 1-2 for a total of (17, 17), 18, 19, (20, 21) decreases. (194, 196), 204, 220, (230, 240) sts
Work in Stockinette until yoke depth measures approx (5.5, 6), 6.5, 7, (7, 7.5) inches from cast on row (making sure to end with a wrong side row worked last.
DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES
Remove markers as you get to them.
Knit to marker (left front), place the next (46, 46), 48, 52, (54, 56) sts on a scrap piece of yarn (left sleeve), cast on using the backwards loop method (3, 2), 3, 2, (2, 3) (left underarm), knit (66, 68), 70, 76, (80, 84) sts (back), place the next (46, 46), 48, 52, (54, 56) sts on a scrap piece of yarn (right sleeve), cast on using the backwards loop method (3, 2), 3, 2, (2, 3) (right underarm), knit to end (right front). (108, 108), 114, 120, (126, 134) body sts
SWEATER BODY
Work in stockinette until piece measures (8, 9), 9.5, 10, (10.5, 11) inches or until desired length measuring from underarm. Make sure to end with a right side worked last.
RIBBED EDGE
Switch to the U.S. 5 circular needle. You will now start working in the round.
Place beginning of round marker, pick up and knit (76, 79) 81, 85, (88, 91) sts from the front edge, knit the (58, 60), 60, 68, (70, 72) sts of the neck cast on, pick up and knit (76, 79) 81, 85, (88, 91) sts from the front edge, pm, knit across the (108, 108), 114, 120, (126, 134) body sts (318, 326), 336, 358, (372, 388) sts
Round 1 – (k2, p2) to 2sts before marker, k2, sm, (k2, p2) to 2sts before marker, k2
Round 2 – k1, m1l, work in established (k2,p2) pattern to 1st before next marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l, work in established (k2,p2) pattern to 1st before next marker, m1r, k1 (you have increased 4 sts)
Repeat rounds 1 and 2, working increased sts into the (k2,p2) pattern until rib measures approx.: (2.5, 2.5), 2.5, 3, (3, 3) inches. Making sure to end with a round 2. Bind off all stitches in pattern loosely, break yarn and weave in ends.
SLEEVES
Work each sleeve one at a time as follows:
Pick up (2, 2), 2, 2, (2, 2) sts from underarm, knit (46, 46), 48, 52, (54, 56) sts of the sleeve on the scrap yarn, pick up (2, 2), 2, 2, (2, 2) sts from underarm on to U.S. 6 double pointed needles, place marker at center underarm to keep track of the beginning of round. (50, 50), 52, 56, (58, 60) sleeve sts
Decreases
Round 1: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Knit 7 rounds
Repeat the last 8 rounds: (7, 7), 6, 8, (7, 8) total times). (36, 36), 40, 40 (44, 44) sts
Knit each round under sleeve measure from under arm to working round approx. (4.5, 5.5), 7.5, 9, (11, 13) inches
RIBBED CUFF
Switch to U.S. 5 double pointed needles.
Work in (k2, p2) ribbing until cuff measures approx.: (2, 2), 2, ,2, (2, 2) inches or until desired length.
Bind of in pattern LOOSELY. Weave in all ends.
You will need to block the sweater to get the edging to lay flat instead of gathering. I prefer to use steam for this but a good wash in some wool wash and laying it out flat with some pins works wonders as well.
Abbreviations
k – knit
P – purl
Pm – place marker
Sm – slip marker
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
kfb – knit into the front and the back of the same stitch to increase by 1 stitch
m1l – pick up from front to back the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through back loop
m1r – pick up from back to front the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through the front loop
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